Top 10 masterpieces selected by the editorial team of watch magazine Chronos Japan [New for 2025]

Members of the editorial staff at Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, select recommended models based on a set theme. This time, the theme is "New Watches for 2025." They each selected two masterpieces from among the models released this year, not just at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the watch industry's largest trade fair for new releases. The members are Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editors Taketo Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi.

Top 10 new models for 2025 selected by the editorial team of "Kronos Japan"

　Watches & Wonders Geneva was held in Switzerland from April 1st to 7th. With this, the watch industry's largest trade fair for new releases, it can be said that the new models for 2025 have been completed to a certain extent, although there are many watch brands that release new models throughout the year. Therefore, members of the editorial staff of the watch magazine Chronos Japan have each selected two masterpieces from the new models announced this year.

　The selection committee members were Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editorial staff members Yuto Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi. The selection criteria were not limited to "new watches released in 2025." The selection process was not limited to models announced at Watches & Wonders Geneva, and even models that have yet to be released were eligible.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota's Recommended "New Watches for 2025"

Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and also known as the "Watch Professor," has been in Geneva, Switzerland, and has been able to get his hands on a variety of new watches this year. Among these, he chose the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Louis Moinet 1816 as his masterpieces.

Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar"

　My personal pick is undoubtedly Grand Seiko's "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA." However, since Yukiya Suzuki chose it, I chose from other models. That leaves me with the highly user-friendly Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar and Louis Moinet, which is poised to challenge the big manufacturers with its ambitious design and price. The former will likely satisfy many people, but the latter is a watch of even greater quality than I could have ever imagined.

　I am a big fan of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar. Not only did it embody the concept that time cannot be turned back, but its mechanism, which allowed the entire calendar to be adjusted simply by turning the crown, was the first to make a complicated mechanical watch usable.

　Audemars Piguet's new perpetual calendar takes this concept of a "usable complicated watch" even further. Not only can you adjust the entire calendar with the crown, but you can also switch between individual displays, such as the day of the week and the date. This is made possible by a two-position "all-in-one crown." While the mechanism is too complex to fit in a wristwatch, its excellent design results in a watch with the same thickness as previous perpetual calendars and an excellent feel when operated.

　To be honest, even if this mechanism is installed, users of perpetual calendars may not set the calendar. Nevertheless, it is the manufacturer's willingness to include a useful function. This new product is a game changer for complicated watches, which tend to seek out eccentricity and originality. This will likely become a masterpiece of the future. Honestly, if I had the money, it's one I'd want.

[A deep dive into the new 2025 models!] Audemars Piguet's 150th anniversary model may look unassuming at first glance, but it's actually an unprecedented perpetual calendar!

FEATURES

Louis Moinet "1816"

　I didn't have high expectations, but the Louis Moinet 1816 turned out to be a truly outstanding piece. The design is inspired by the world's first chronograph (as of now) that the company acquired. Not only has the dial layout been faithfully reproduced, but the movement has also been created from scratch, so the brand is really going all out.

　The movement is made by the familiar Concept brand. However, it is not a modified ébauche modeled after the company's ETA 7750, but a completely different watch. The Japanese price has not yet been announced, but the local price of 39,000 Swiss francs is quite strategic considering the contents.

　Although the diameter is large, it fits well on the wrist. Also, the bracelet, which is integrated with the case, could be improved considerably with a few more refinements. So, I included it in my selection with high expectations. If you like Minerva, you'll probably like it. I really like this watch.

Deputy Editor-in-Chief Suzuki Yukiya's Recommendations for the "2025 New Watches"

Yukiya Suzuki, deputy editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan, who has been covering new product fairs in Switzerland since the 1990s, chose the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA and the Hermès Arceau Tenchuspondu.

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA"

　Among the new movements installed in the new models announced at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, one that attracted attention for its accuracy was the Cal. 9RB2 installed in Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA.

　Simply put, this movement is driven by Seiko's Spring Drive system, which has the highest level of precision of any mass-produced mainspring movement, achieving an astonishing accuracy of ±20 seconds per year.

　To begin with, there are three main types of movements used in Grand Seiko watches: the quartz Cal. 9F series, the mechanical Cal. 9S series, and the Spring Drive Cal. 9R series, which combines the advantages of both quartz and mechanical movements.

　In 2020, Grand Seiko celebrated its 60th anniversary with the announcement of two revolutionary movements, creating a buzz. One was the mechanical Caliber 9SA5, and the other was the Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5. Both movements took Grand Seiko's previous movements to new heights in both precision and finish, solidifying Grand Seiko's reputation in the global market.

　The Cal. 9RA5 then evolved into the Cal. 9RA2, and finally into the revolutionary Cal. 9RB2, which boasts a high accuracy of ±20 seconds per year.

　The innovative technology that has made this high precision possible will be explained in depth in the next issue of Chronos Japan, July issue (No. 119), which will be released on June 6th, so please look forward to that article.

　However, the appeal and amazing thing about the Spring Drive UFA is that, in addition to its high accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, this high-precision movement is housed in a compact case with a diameter of just 37mm. While the previous Caliber 9RA series movements had a diameter of 34mm, the new Caliber 9RB2 has been reduced to a diameter of 30mm. This size is the same as the existing Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. In fact, the true appeal of the Caliber 9RB2 lies not only in its high accuracy but also in its compact size.

　Two models of this new Cal. 9RB2 movement have been announced: one with a platinum case and one with a bright titanium case. We recommend the bright titanium model because its compact, maneuverable size of 37mm in diameter is further enhanced by the lightness of the bright titanium used for the case and bracelet.

　Another notable feature is the use of a fine-adjustment mechanism in the Grand Seiko buckle for the first time. As a result, the Spring Drive UFA combines the ultimate precision of a spring-driven watch with a practical wearing comfort, making it the most mature model in Grand Seiko's history and sure to make waves in the watch market in 2025.

Hermès "Arceaux Teintspondue" Brown Desert Dial Model

　If I were to recommend another new model, I would recommend the Hermès Arceau Teintspondue with a brown désir (sand gold) dial.

　This was one of the earliest models in which Hermès began to seriously pursue the philosophy of time through the complicated mechanisms of mechanical watches. "Tenche spondu" means "suspended time," and when the pusher at 9 o'clock is pressed, the hour and minute hands both point to 12 o'clock, and the retrograde pointer date, located between 4 and 7 o'clock, is hidden by a protruding section between 4 and 5 o'clock, concealing the date display.

　In other words, it expresses the very philosophy of time at Hermès: to be freed from both time and dates, to cherish and appreciate the moment. This is the state of mind that the Maison has reached only because of its constant pursuit of craftsmanship: that truly exceptional things are never bound by time.

　When it first appeared in 2011, this "maverick of the times" was based on a general-purpose movement and equipped with a module jointly developed with Agenor. 14 years later, it has been rebased on a movement developed in-house, showing further maturity.

　In 2025, we would like to praise this masterpiece, in which Hermes returns once again to the philosophy of time.

Yuto Hosoda's recommended "2025 new watches"

　Editor Hosoda Yuto, who was on-site for the first time at this year's Watches & Wonders Geneva, chose the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds and the Panerai Luminor Tregiorni.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds

　I was personally very impressed with Jaeger-LeCoultre this year. All of the new Reverso models are perfect, and it's difficult to choose just one.

　Speaking of personal preference, the monoface "Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds" Ref. Q713216J is also a tough choice. However, considering the origins and character of the Reverso watch, I think stainless steel is more appropriate than 18KPG, so I'll choose the "Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds" this time. I particularly recommend the black dial.

　The biggest appeal of the black dial model is its appearance. The combination of the black dial design of the Reverso Tribute, with its bar indexes and minute track, is reminiscent of the 1931 original.

　Personally, I tend to prefer the monoface Reverso over the Duo, due to the development of the inverted case to protect the crystal. However, the Duo in this model matches the character of the dial and leaves a good impression. When you invert the black-based monotone dial, it "inverts" (though technically it's not inverted) to a silver-based monotone, which gives the impression of owning two completely different characters at the same time, and is very satisfying. It's easy to see why the Duo is so popular.

　With Jerome Lambert returning as CEO, the brand is even more exciting to watch.

Panerai "Luminor Tregiorni"

　My impression of this watch is simply, "Welcome back!" This is what Panerai should be like. The high-quality 1950 form case, typical of Donze Baume, is full of three-dimensionality, and combined with the 47mm diameter, it is very impressive. Small diameter cases are trendy, and I like them too, but this oversized case is quite appealing.

　I firmly believe that what is most important for a Panerai is its presence, legibility, and water resistance, rather than how well it fits on the wrist. That's why I'm so happy that this Luminor has been released.

　Another key point is that the movement used is the Caliber P.3000. It is one ligne larger in diameter than the Caliber P.6000, which is also hand-wound, and is more robust and has a better finish. It is a perfect match for the 47mm diameter Luminor. Personally, I was not a big fan of the 28.2mm Caliber P.900, which is used everywhere, so I am very pleased with this selection.

　Since it's based on the same prototype, it naturally looks identical to the classic PAM00372. However, the dial, with its deliberately roughened surface and gray gradation, is more vintage-like. Of course, the crystal, which was plastic on the PAM00372, has been replaced with sapphire crystal, and the quality of the case has also improved.

　The faithful PAM00372 was an attractive model, but since this watch will be made in 2025, it was a bold move to change the flavor. It's definitely a watch worth buying.

Chieko Tsuruoka's recommended "2025 new watches"

　Despite travelling around saying she would be covering this year's Watches & Wonders Geneva on-site, Tsuruoka Chieko ended up staying home and chose the Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas and the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic (she will be covering the event on-site next year).

Bvlgari "Serpenti Tubogas"

　This project selects the best models from the new watches announced so far for 2025. While many of the models have yet to be seen in person, the first one we want to highlight is the Bulgari Serpenti, which has expanded the scope of women's watches.

　The main feature of this watch is that it is equipped with the newly developed ladies' automatic movement "BVS100 Lady Solotempo." This movement has a diameter of just 19mm and a thickness of just 3.90mm, making it extremely small.

　Women's watches, which tend to have small cases, have mostly been equipped with quartz movements. While the women's watch market has expanded and the number of mechanical models has increased, with the exception of some brands like Rolex, most have had issues, such as being too large for women and having a shorter power reserve than men's models. However, Bulgari's newly launched BVS100 Lady Solotempo achieves an automatic movement and a power reserve of approximately 50 hours despite its extremely small size. Also, looking at a photo of the movement, the twin bridges and bridges supporting the balance are solid and durable (although I'm repeating what Editor-in-Chief Hirota said).

　Until now, the Serpenti has featured quartz movements in standard models, and manual-winding movements in some high jewelry models. This new automatic movement model has been available in two models of the Serpenti Tubogas and seven models of the Serpenti Seduttori, bringing a wide variety of variations to the line since its debut. While the simple stainless steel model of the Serpenti Seduttori is nice, this time we'll be focusing on the Serpenti Tubogas with a double bracelet, which is absolutely gorgeous and whose dazzling brilliance captivated me when I photographed it.

　Although the snake motif design is not significantly different from the previous model, the case is slightly thicker due to the inclusion of an automatic movement, but this is barely noticeable. On the other hand, perhaps in consideration of winding the mainspring and setting the time, the crown has been made easier to operate while maintaining the same design, demonstrating Bulgari's high level of technical skill.

　Production of this movement will be transferred to the Zenith Manufacture and shared within the LVMH Group.

　Personally, I don't think there's any need to force a mechanical movement into a delicate and cute wristwatch. Quartz movements are easy to use, and considering that many women's bags have magnetic clasps, there's also the advantage of not having to worry about magnetism. However, the arrival of a women's-specific mechanical movement that is both extremely small and "usable" indicates the current expansion and maturation of the ladies' watch market, which is very pleasing to me as a female watch enthusiast.

　Bulgari's latest move with the BVS100 Lady Solo Tempo is a big one in the mechanical watch genre, which has traditionally been thought of as primarily targeted at men (despite its tiny movement), and we hope that its ripple effects will continue to influence other brands.

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic

　I would like to talk about another new watch for 2025 that I thought was great the moment I saw it in person: the Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic, released by Hublot as a commemorative model for the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang.

　It's well known that the Big Bang, which debuted in 2005, was a huge hit and has grown into Hublot's signature collection, as well as being one of the driving forces behind the "big, thick" watch boom. I entered the watch industry in 2017. While I wasn't present at the birth of the Big Bang or the height of the big, thick watch boom, the Big Bang was a huge seller at the watch shop where I worked at the time, and I personally had the image of it as a "big, cool watch." Models equipped with the "Unico" movement were already popular at the time, and the smaller-diameter "Unico 2" was released in 2018, but to me, the "Big Bang Original" was the company's icon.

　The new watch announced this time follows the iconic design and incorporates the Unico 2. There are five different models in total, but my personal favorite is the "Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic," made of titanium and featuring the "Steel Ceramic" design.

　Although there are some changes compared to the original, such as a 1mm reduction in diameter and a bi-compax dial layout due to the inclusion of the Unico II, the watch looks exactly like the original model from 2005. Meanwhile, thanks to its titanium construction, it is lighter and more compact, and while it maintains its bulky appearance, it feels light and comfortable to wear.

　Furthermore, the transparent case back allows you to view the Unico 2. The original also has a transparent case back, but because the movement is based on the ETA7750, the former wins in terms of the aesthetic appeal of a luxury watch. The Unico-equipped model has an open dial, and the chronograph mechanism is located on the dial side, so you cannot see the chronograph control mechanism in this watch. However, it is worth noting that the movement is full of special features, such as the special 20th anniversary rotor.

　Although it is not obviously flashy, it can be said to be an anniversary model with updates that are appropriate for the milestone of the Big Bang's 20th anniversary.

Yosuke Ohashi's recommended "2025 new watches"

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Glacier

　Wow! I was honestly impressed with the beautiful color scheme of this watch released by NOMOS Glashütte. The blue-gray color used mainly on the dial is a calming, nuanced color. I'm impressed by the choice of color alone.

　On the other hand, the outer periphery, which contains the indexes and names of cities around the world, is a slightly darker beige, which provides a nice accent that balances out the darkness of the blue-gray.

　Perhaps the most noteworthy accent in the color scheme is the 24-hour display at 3 o'clock, which uses a complementary red hue. Including the scale and hands, five colors are used. Rather than using a single color for the inset dial, it's cleverly darkened from 6 p.m., when the sun sets, to 6 a.m., when the sun rises.

　Another key point is that the index numbers are highlighted in white, giving them a slightly three-dimensional appearance. As far as I know, this is a style that is often seen in old-fashioned Western sign painting (lettering created using paint on signs, advertisements, etc.). It's surprising to see this style on a wristwatch dial.

　I think the unique feature of NOMOS Glashütte, including this model, is that it is not bound by the conservative design codes of the watch industry. Therefore, I believe that if more people outside the watch industry have a chance to see it, more people will be attracted to this design.

Timex Giorgio Galli S2 Ti

　What is this?! As soon as this watch was announced, it caused quite a stir within the editorial department. We don't really know what it is, but it's definitely a cool watch. And the fact that it's from Timex, a brand that has made high-quality yet affordable watches available to many people, only fueled the buzz.

　This watch has a simple design with a titanium case and bracelet. Nevertheless, it exudes an enigmatic presence. Its charm is hard to put into words at first glance. That is perhaps the best way to describe this watch.

　The key to unlocking this secret lies with Timex's design director, Giorgio Galli. Galli has been involved in watch design for many years, including for other companies, and the "S" series, which includes this watch, is a realization of the desire to "create a certain kind of design" that he has felt in his daily work.

　One example is the dial. It is monotone silver, but it is very expressive. The dial itself has a glossy finish. On the other hand, the ring-shaped indexes have a hairline finish, which gives the watch a different texture when it reflects light.

　The dial ring is also as glossy as the dial itself. However, take note of its shape. It has a gentle curve and a structure that sinks inward. This gives it a different shade from the dial, creating a sense of visual depth.

　This meticulous use of light and shadow accentuates the unique presence of this watch.

　Despite the amount of effort put into this watch, only 500 units were produced worldwide. When it was released in Japan, it sold out in an instant. It's a shame that it was limited to such a small number.