In a project to ask prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, the five were selected by RY, the captain of a foreign ship and operator of the popular YouTube channel "Life with Watches." The top choice was Chopard, which RY, whose preference for dress watches has grown with each passing year, said he "fell in love" with.
1st Place: Chopard "LUC Quattro-Mark IV" Ref. 161954-9001
Manual winding (Cal. LUC 98.09-L). 38 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 216 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.00 mm, thickness 10.40 mm). Water resistant to 30 meters. Estimated price 7,227,000 yen (tax included). Available exclusively at Chopard boutiques. (Inquiries) Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922
The light blue frosted-textured dial features three-dimensional wedge-shaped indices, a 39mm diameter, 10.40mm thick platinum case, and a movement that has been awarded the Geneva Seal. Not only is it beautiful from every angle, but it also boasts a technically impressive power reserve of approximately nine days thanks to four barrels (and COSC-certified accuracy!). Moreover, the power reserve indicator is hidden on the back, maintaining a purely elegant design that is truly aesthetically pleasing.
2nd Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA" Ref. SLGB003
Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). Accuracy ±20 seconds per year. 34 jewels. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 37.0 mm, thickness 11.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release at Grand Seiko Boutiques and Grand Seiko Salons from Friday, June 6, 2025. (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
The combination of a small (37mm) case and a bracelet with a fine-adjustment mechanism would have been enough to get watch enthusiasts talking. But the added surprise is the new Cal. 9RB2 movement, the "Spring Drive UFA (Ultra Fine Accuracy)," which achieves the world's highest accuracy of ±20 seconds per year for a mainspring-driven wristwatch. The brand previously had a legendary model called the VFA (Very Fine Adjusted), which far exceeded the chronometer standards of the time, but this model surpasses that. The historically inspired name is also heartwarming.
3rd Place: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds, Ref. Q398847J
Manual winding (Cal. 854). 19 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (47mm x 28.3mm, 10.34mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. 2,129,600 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has always been on my wish list, but my "ultra-personal ideal Reverso" - a tribute face, white or silver and black dials on both sides, and less than 10mm thick - has yet to exist (as far as I know). However, this model comes extremely close (10.34mm thick only). The versatile colors on both sides are a delight, and the intellectual atmosphere is also appealing. The price of over 2 million yen could be considered the equivalent of two watches, so perhaps each could be worth just over 1 million yen?
4. A. Lange & Söhne "1815" Ref. 220.028
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 34.0 mm, thickness 6.4 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3,850,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
This year marks the 30th anniversary of the birth of the "1815," and this new model features a modest size of 34mm in diameter and 6.4mm thick. While the 34mm case diameter may seem quite small on paper, the actual size is surprisingly comfortable (in fact, it's so comfortable that you might wonder if this size is actually the best). It also makes an excellent share watch. Caliber L152.1 is not only more compact, but also offers improved performance, with an extended power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The combination of blue and white gold is very refreshing and stylish.
5. Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Silver, Ref. 791
Automatic (Cal. DUW 3202). 37 jewels. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 9.9mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 772,200 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Osawa Shokai Tel. 03-3527-2682
A world timer is one of those complicated mechanisms that many people would like to own someday. However, there are surprisingly few models that fall within a practical range in terms of price, size, and specifications. This model is priced at around 700,000 yen, measures 40mm in diameter, 9.9mm thick, and is water resistant to 10 bar, making it a truly practical world timer (and it even has an in-house movement). The packaging, which brings together the complex mechanism in a simple, elegant, and stylish way, is typical of Nomos. There are a total of eight different colors available, including limited edition models, which is also fun.
General comment
The dressy trends that have continued in recent years, such as a return to classic styles and smaller case diameters, appear to have continued overall this year as well.
Perhaps I have been affected by this trend myself, as my tastes have been leaning more towards dresses with each passing year.
Additionally, it seemed like a lot of "light" dial colors were released this year.
It seems that the trend towards colorful dials has been around for the past few years, but while up until now most of the dials have been vivid and powerful, this year it seems that there are more paler, softer colors.
According to statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), last year China saw a significant decline in exports (value basis) of Swiss watches (-25.8% compared to the previous year), while North America and Japan saw increases (+5.0% and +7.8% respectively). This may have had an impact.
In any case, I personally welcome the pale color as it pairs well with dressy watches.
Thoughts on the top three
As usual, this time I've listed the watches that I personally want.
My brief impressions are as above, but I would like to write more casually about my thoughts on the top three films in particular.
I fell in love with the top-ranked Chopard LUC Quattro-Mark IV Ref. 161954-9001. It sounds like a cliché, but it's perhaps the perfect way to describe my current feelings. From the moment I laid eyes on this piece, it has been stuck in my head, and I can't help but fantasize about how it would look in my daily life and displaying it in a collection box. However, the price of over 7 million yen stands before me like a towering mountain range. It truly is a dream beyond my reach.
Coming in second place is the Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA" Ref. SLGB003. "Finally!" is my initial impression. This is because bracelets with fine-tuning mechanisms have long been awaited by watch enthusiasts around the world. What's more, it comes with a pleasant surprise: the technological innovation known as "UFA" and the accompanying smaller diameter. Personally, I think it's a delightful impact, similar to when the iPhone got a USB-C connector with the iPhone 15, or when Kingdom Hearts' Sora joined Super Smash Bros., something that was thought to be impossible.
Coming in third place is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds Ref. Q398847J, a watch that has been the center of attention this year due to the rush of new Reverso models. The Reverso Tribute Geographic and the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Ref. Q713216J, which features an 18K pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet, are also excellent, making it difficult to decide which one to choose. Ultimately, I chose the Ref. Q398847J as third place based on its overall case thickness, color, and price, but both of these models were personal hits that would earn them a place in my top 10.
W&WG is always fun every year.
In particular, the number of exhibiting brands reached a record high of approximately 60, making the event even more exciting.
On the other hand, the Trump tariffs announced around the same time would impose a 31% tariff on Swiss products, which could be a major blow to the Swiss watch industry, and there are concerns that, depending on the outcome, this could have a major impact on new product releases next year.
I think new products will be announced one by one by various companies in the future, so I'll continue to keep an eye on them.
Selector Profile
Life with a watch RY
Born in 1990, Fukuda's main occupation is the captain of a foreign ship. He became obsessed with the charm of watches after purchasing his first mechanical watch. In order to increase the number of watch lovers, he started the blog "A Life with Watches" in 2019. In 20, he launched the YouTube "A Life with Watches Channel." He also contributes impression articles to webChronos and appears in Forza Stayle's popular video series "Rock Fukuda's Watch Spirit."
