This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, the selection was made by Hiroyuki Suzuki, editor-in-chief of the watch magazine Watch Global and a member of the Japanese edition of Chronos since its early days. Having covered Swiss trade fairs on-site for many years, Suzuki is delighted, saying, "I've been waiting for something like this for a long time," and will present the top five along with an analysis of the trends in this year's new releases.
1. Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5370R
Automatic winding (Cal. CHR 29-535 PS). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.56mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 45,710,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109
This chronograph features an impressive two-tone brown and ivory dial with a split-seconds hand. The 18K white gold dial base is entirely hand-engraved, and because it is champlevé, it is polished, but the lack of polishing gives it a wonderful appearance. Hats off to you.
2nd place: Angelus "Chronograph Telemeter"
Manual winding (Cal. A5000). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37mm, thickness 9.25mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide. 352 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Arnold & Son Consultation Center Tel. 0570-03-1764
This is the third release of the "La Fabric" series, featuring the one-push chronograph designed by the former THA. Unlike the previous two models, this one features the long-awaited two-counter design. The slightly crossed-eyed look of the THA one-push chronograph is what I like about it.
3nd place: A. Lange & Söhne "1815"
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 34.0 mm, thickness 6.4 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3,850,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
The completely redesigned "1815" has an unimaginable diameter of 34mm and a case thickness of 6.4mm. The movement is only 2.9mm thick and has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The watch itself is great, but expectations are high for future expansion.
4th place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar"
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 10.9 mm). Water resistant to 30 m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 92,000 Swiss francs. (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
Parmigiani Fleurier has established a worldview of private luxury. The new perpetual calendar has a wonderful balance of detail and coarseness on the dial. The subtle neutral colors are still beautiful, but it's time for a more standard color.
5. Cartier Tank à Guichet (original version)
Manual winding (Cal. 9755 MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18K yellow gold case (37.6 x 24.8 mm, 6 mm thick). Not waterproof. 759 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
The "Iron Mask" (sorry!) was produced in particularly low numbers among all Cartier models, and is the ninth Privé model. The limited edition platinum case with its magical Guichet placement is nice, but the original small window placement is hard to give up. The production numbers are still low.
Overall: A year in which history changed in ways that could never be reversed
With the spread of large-sized watches, the core movements of watches were gradually made larger and thinner from the 2000s to the 2010s. It's true that this trend, which offered many design advantages, elevated the performance of mechanical watches to a new level. However, when it comes to watches, bigger is not always better, and I thought that the 9-ligne hand-wound movement was a page in history that had completely passed away. But, the gears of history have turned in the opposite direction.
Perhaps due to a backlash against large sizes, there have been a few "40 or less" products (40mm diameter or less) in recent years, but this year has been the year that this trend has become definitive. A representative from a certain brand let slip, "We've been requesting a size under 40mm for a long time, and this year our request finally came true," which is probably evidence that the entire industry is moving in this direction.
The deciding factors were likely A. Lange & Söhne's "1815" (34mm diameter) and Grand Seiko's "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA" (37mm diameter). Details cannot be revealed yet, but there is also inside information that there will be more new 36mm diameter products this year.
As the boundaries between sports and dress are becoming increasingly blurred in recent developments, it's great for a watch lover to see an increase in small-diameter movements refined to modern specifications. While it's impossible to predict what will happen with the Trump tariffs, which seem to be nothing but an attempt to destroy Switzerland, now is the time to endure the headwinds and allocate more resources to niche products like this. Watch enthusiasts around the world have been waiting for this trend for a long time!
Selector Profile
The Great War
Born in 1972. After working as an editor for a motorcycle magazine, he became a freelance writer and editor for watches. He is the editor-in-chief of the watch magazine "Watch Global." He has also been involved in editing the Japanese edition of "Chronos" since its early days. He is the co-author of "ALL ABOUT RICHARD MILLE - 62 Reasons Why Richard Mille Is Amazing." His favorite watch is the Moritz Grossmann "Venu Japan Limited."
