Here are the top 5 new watches announced by W&WG, selected by Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan!

In this project, prominent journalists from Japan and around the world were asked to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos, appeared. While acknowledging that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40, which has excited the watch industry with its new escapement, "has to be included," he chose the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographice as his number one pick.

1st Place: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

This is a product that makes you want to say "Welcome back, JLC." It has a world time mechanism on the back of the case, and a thin large date display on the front. It would be best if it had a fast-forward mechanism, but considering the thinness, this is unavoidable. As with the "Duo," the world time, which is advanced by moving the slider on the top of the case, feels extremely tactile. In addition, the exterior is elaborate, as is typical of recent Jaeger-LeCoultre watches. The globe on the back has been painstakingly crafted, with each of the 141 holes filled with lacquer. A new masterpiece from the "Reverso" that stands alongside traditional chronographs. Honestly, I'd love to have one.

2nd Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA"

This watch combines a lightweight 37mm bright titanium case with an ultra-high precision movement with an annual accuracy of ±20 seconds, which I personally consider to be the ultimate GS Spring Drive model. The bracelet is slightly tapered (20mm on the case side, 18mm on the buckle side), and the buckle is equipped with a long-awaited fine adjustment mechanism. While many manufacturers make their bracelets too tapered, I like Grand Seiko's approach of deliberately keeping the tapered shape to a minimum and avoiding an overly head-heavy feel. Its only real weakness is that it's virtually indistinguishable from the existing "White Birch" dial. I'm eager to see new variations on the dial.

3rd place: Louis Moinet "1816"

An unexpected surprise. This wristwatch chronograph recreates the design of the world's first chronograph, created by Louis Moinet in 1816. Its 40.5mm titanium case is light and easy to use, and the dial and case are exquisitely finished. The hand-wound movement, designed by Concept, looks even better than the Lemania 2310. But with such an excellent watch, surely there was no need to force the bracelet to be integrated? Incidentally, the prototype bracelet had some issues with the first link being bent. However, this will reportedly be improved by the time the final product is released. While a proper evaluation will be necessary once the final product is released, it is still quite appealing. Moreover, the price is strategic given the content (though expensive in absolute terms).

4th place: TAG Heuer "TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph"

This model impressed me with how well it was made. While retaining the original model's design, it has been updated to suit the times by incorporating a light-powered quartz movement and enhancing the texture of the exterior. The watch is short in overall length and lightweight, making it comfortable to wear. The nostalgic so-called "kamaboko bracelet" also has a nice texture. The light-powered quartz movement, which was introduced with much fanfare, was jointly developed with La Joux-Perret, a subsidiary of Citizen. This means that its light-receiving performance should be quite good. Proof of this is that the color of the dial is surprisingly clear, unlike that of a light-powered watch. This will undoubtedly appeal to those who are tired of so-called luxury watches.

5. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40

It may not be interesting, but I have to include it. This new model achieves outstanding high performance thanks to the new Dynapulse escapement. Its long power reserve of approximately 66 hours at 36,000 vph is unusually ambitious for a Rolex. It also completely eliminates the initial start-up issues inherent with natural escapements. Personally, I appreciate the clever packaging. By keeping the case thickness to 9.5mm, despite the bracelet emphasizing the tapered shape favored by recent Rolex models, it doesn't feel head-heavy at all. I hope this will become the next Rolex package. The dial design looks loud, but it wasn't so in person. A standard grained finish would have been even better, though.

Overall Review: Top 5 Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025!

Some people have said that the 2025 Watches & Wonders collection is even more subdued than last year's. However, upon closer inspection, the quality of each company's new products has steadily improved. Specifically, the dials. However, it seems that the difference between powerful manufacturers and less powerful ones is starting to emerge. Even with a simple dial with a different color, manufacturers who can add a twist are still strong.

Selector Profile

Masayuki Hirota

Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1974. After a successful career as a regular on 2channel, he quit his job to become a watch journalist. Before he knew it, he had become a leading voice in the industry. While contributing to numerous watch magazines, he has served as editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan since its second issue. He became editor-in-chief in 2016.