This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, we have Masaharu Nabata, editor-in-chief of Gressive, who has been covering the major Swiss watch exhibition since 1994. Nabata writes, "Simple is always better," and what are the five masterpieces he "somehow managed to choose"? The five models featured are all ranked equally, and are not ranked.
・Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar"
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 10.9 mm). Water resistant to 30 m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 92,000 Swiss francs. (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
The watch has a simple face with central hour and minute hands and two subdials at the bottom that display the month, day of the week, and date. The pale blue dial and nubuck-finish gray strap are also captivating.
・Zenith "GFJ"
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 6,952,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
The revival of the legendary chronometer movement, Cal. 135, was a surprise. It was also wonderful that it was modified to include engraved patterns on the bridges (which, honestly, is fine) and given a lapis lazuli dial reminiscent of the night sky.
・Cartier "Tank à Guichet"
Manual winding (Cal. 9755 MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Pt case (37.6 x 24.8 mm, 6 mm thick). Not waterproof. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide. 9,702,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
"Guiché" means "window." As the name suggests, this is a special model in which the hours and minutes are read numerically through a window in the watch. In this new platinum model, the window is positioned in a slightly twisted position. This is quite avant-garde and cool.
・Chronoswiss "Pulse One"
Automatic movement (Cal. C. 6001). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Ti case (diameter 41 mm, thickness 12.75 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. 2,585,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Eiko Watch Tel. 03-3837-0783
I was amazed at how they boldly evolved the regulator with independent hour, minute, and second hands, and presented an ultra-modern regulator that was completely different from classic models by matching a matte case with a matte dial.
・Chopard "LUC Quattro-Mark IV"
Manual winding (Cal. LUC 98.09-L). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 216 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.00 mm, thickness 10.40 mm). Water resistant to 30 m. Estimated price 7,227,000 yen (tax included). Available exclusively at Chopard boutiques. (Inquiries): Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922
I was surprised to learn that it had been a quarter of a century since I visited Switzerland to cover the LUC Quattro, which boasts a long nine-day power reserve. The latest model to commemorate this milestone is a beautiful model with a small 39mm case. The combination of the light blue dial and gray strap is also lovely.
General comment
Since the COVID-19 pandemic, the style of new watch announcements has changed dramatically, with each model now being released at the optimal time. However, spring is still the season for new watches. At this year's Watches & Wonders Geneve, many brands announced a wide variety of new releases. Asking me to "pick just five models" is a pretty cruel request, but as always, I somehow managed to choose five models based on the criteria of "what I honestly want."
Looking at these models, I think my preference is for simplicity. While I certainly think complicated watches are wonderful, this selection once again highlights my preference for a simple model. Of these models, the one I would definitely own if I had the money is the Zenith GFJ. As I mentioned in the individual descriptions, I never expected the legendary Cal. 135, which brought together Zenith's technology and competed in the Observatory Chronometer Competition, to be revived, let alone remade with such a beautiful exterior. Considering the many times I've missed out on buying a model equipped with the original Cal. 135, this is truly a dream watch I'd love to own if I could. As usual, all are listed equally, with no ranking.
Selector Profile
Nahata politics
He is the editor-in-chief of Gressive, a website introducing authorized retailers of brand-name watches, and a leading watch journalist in Japan. He has been covering large-scale Swiss watch exhibitions since 1994, and his insights are unparalleled in the industry. In addition to writing feature articles for the Japanese edition of Chronos, he also serves as a judge for the "Chronos Top 10 Ranking" at the end of the issue. In recent years, he has switched from being a dog lover to a cat lover (though he also loves dogs, of course). He is the co-author of "The Story of Cartier Watches."
