For men in their 40s, engineer-turned-watch writer Shinichi Sato recommends IWC watches.

This time, we will focus on IWC, which has an image of being a "technical" brand for many watch fans, with products such as the "Pilot's Watch Chronograph," which includes models developed in collaboration with the famous Top Gun, the "Ingenieur," a masterpiece known for its anti-magnetic properties, and the "Aquatimer," which features a unique bezel structure. As an IWC fan with a background as an engineer who has just entered his 40s, I will introduce IWC models that I recommend for men in their 40s.

The history and appeal of IWC

　IWC was founded in Schaffhausen, Switzerland in 1868 by watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones. Florentine's goal was to combine cutting-edge American technology with Swiss labor, which was still low-wage at the time, to manufacture high-quality movements and watch parts for the American market. The reason he chose Schaffhausen, a German-speaking city far from the center of the Swiss watch industry, is said to be because of its deep-rooted watchmaking tradition and the ability to introduce manufacturing technologies that took advantage of the stable supply of electricity provided by hydroelectric power generation on the Rhine River that began in the 19th century. In other words, one of IWC's defining features is that, while based on traditional watchmaking techniques, it has sought to streamline production through mechanization since its founding.

　IWC has achieved the mass production of models with high magnetic resistance, the development of hand-wound movements that are both mass-producible and reliable, the development of highly efficient automatic winding mechanisms whose basic designs are still used today, the development of movements with perpetual calendars that are mass-produced, and the adoption of titanium and ceramic cases. The key to all of these is that they have achieved "mass production" through an industrial approach, and many watch fans have the image of IWC as a "technical company."

Recommended IWC Models for Men in Their 40s

　Generally, people reach a transitional stage in their job titles and roles in their early 40s. I'm in the midst of this transition, and I imagine many of them are entrusted with a larger team, become leaders of important projects, gain experience and go independent, or see the company they run grow. At such a turning point, it might be a good idea to choose a book that will support you in the future or commemorate your success.

　So, this time, we will introduce recommended models for men in their 40s from the collection of IWC, a company renowned for its technical expertise.

"Portofino Complete Calendar" Ref. IW359001

　The most dressy collection from IWC is the "Portofino." The model name is derived from the port town of Portofino, located in northern Italy, known as a resort area for its scenic beauty. Perhaps reflecting this, the Portofino is gaining popularity as a simple and elegant dress watch collection, even though IWC is often known for its rugged and sturdy tool watches.

　This time we'll be looking at the Portofino Complete Calendar. This model features a coaxial display of the month and date at the 6 o'clock position on the dial, and a coaxial display of the day of the week and moon phase at the 12 o'clock position. The reason we chose this model is that it combines such multi-functions with the elegant styling of the Portofino, and also because it is a model that evokes a connection to IWC's history. So let's take a look at the history of IWC.

　In the late 1970s, IWC was struggling financially and was trying to expand its lineup while leveraging its technological assets. The company came up with the idea of ​​incorporating multi-function pocket watch movements into wristwatches, and released a model with a round pocket watch-like case and slender lugs. Based on this design, further refinements were made to make the watch smaller and thinner, which would later grow into a popular collection. This would become the foundation for the Portofino we know today.

　Around the same time, stamping and other processing techniques were improving, making it possible to mass-produce precision parts that had previously only been made by hand, although there were restrictions on their shape. In response, IWC engineer Kurt Klaus developed a perpetual calendar mechanism with a highly accurate moon phase display, using stamped parts, and successfully released it at an affordable price. This had a major impact on watchmaking technology in the years to come.

　Now, back to this watch. This model inherits the iconic Portofino styling of a round case and slender lugs, and the automatic movement Cal. 32150 equipped with a perpetual calendar and a high-precision moon phase display. With a silhouette and mechanism tied to IWC's history, this model is a deeply appealing model whose appeal is rediscovered the more you get to know IWC. If you're looking for a watch to keep for a long time, this is one to consider.

Portuguese Chronograph, Ref. IW371605

The Portugieser was born in the 1930s as a response to a Portuguese merchant's request for a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. The use of a pocket watch movement to achieve high precision led to a large case for a wristwatch, combined with Arabic numerals reminiscent of pocket watches and marine chronometers, a design code that remains to this day. While once considered an extra-large, specialized watch, the increasing size of the watch design has led to widespread acceptance and the watch becoming a popular collection.

　This time we'll be looking at the Portugieser Chronograph, which has been equipped with a chronograph function. The distinctively large 41mm case diameter and the dial that fills the entire case are key elements that give the watch its distinctive Portugieser character. This model's silver dial with blue hands and Arabic numerals creates a refreshing impression, and it is paired with a navy leather strap to match the color scheme. It features a small second hand at 6 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock, and the indices are "cut off" on each subdial, a detail reminiscent of a pocket watch. A fine seconds scale is engraved on the back of the dial, supporting accurate timekeeping.

　While chronograph models generally have a tool watch-like design intended for pilots or motorsports, the Portugieser Chronograph features an elegant design reminiscent of a pocket watch. This elegant model is perfect for pairing with a suit and will also support you in more formal business situations.

Pilot's Watch Chronograph, Ref. IW388101

　IWC has a long history of providing models for the German and British air forces, and since 2007 has collaborated with the U.S. Navy's special fighter tactical training course, commonly known as "Top Gun" (the "Top Gun" famous from the movie). In addition, since 2018, IWC has been developing pilot watches in collaboration with Top Gun instructors, and IWC's technological capabilities, which ensure reliability and accurate function even in the harsh conditions of a fighter jet cockpit, have been recognized, making IWC the only company authorized to work on watches for all U.S. Navy and Marine Corps squadrons.

The Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 is a chronograph model that has been added to the lineup against this backdrop. Its iconic diamond-shaped hands are a tradition of IWC pilot's watches. The wide lugs that smoothly flow from the case sides, the crown and pushers that are easy to operate even when wearing gloves, the wide dial, and the large, bold Arabic numerals in a Gothic font all create a robust image befitting a tool watch.

　In addition to the central hour and minute hands and chronograph second hand, it also features a day-date display at 3 o'clock, a small second at 6 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 9 o'clock, and a 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock, so it can be said that all basic timekeeping displays are covered.

　The featured model, Ref. IW388101, is a vibrant and chic blue dial model, with the small second hand colored red for improved visibility. The sunray finish on the dial creates a change in appearance, and the various white displays ensure visibility while creating a modern and elegant impression.

　These days, the trend of pairing a suit with a sporty model is becoming more popular, and if you can accept the case size of 41.0mm in diameter and 14.5mm in thickness, the high quality of IWC's exterior and the chic impression of this watch will make it a perfect match for business settings.

Ingenieur Automatic 40, Ref. IW328907

　The Ingenieur has been gaining attention since its full model change in 2023. The current Ingenieur's design concept is a return to the Ingenieur SL (Ref. 1832) designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, and its distinctive features can be seen not only in the overall silhouette, but also in the smooth lines connecting the case side and bracelet, and the screws on the bezel.

　The name Ingenieur comes from the German word for engineer, and the first model, released in 1955, was given high magnetic resistance to maintain accuracy even in environments surrounded by magnetic devices. The original model had a classic appearance with a round case, but the Ingenieur SL (Ref. 1832), designed by Gerald Genta, gave it an iconic silhouette that is still popular today.

　The featured model, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, boasts high magnetic resistance of approximately 44,000 A/m, a design by Gérald Genta, and the high exterior quality of IWC's current watches. The dial features a grid dial combining horizontal and vertical lines, which reduces light reflections and ensures visibility while creating a unique texture. A crown guard has been added to the original design, improving ergonomics and comfort, and other meticulous considerations and improvements have been made.

　The Ingenieur was originally intended for engineers, and this is reflected in the model name. It also has the anti-magnetic performance required by modern engineers, and the finished watch is thin at 10.8mm, making it a perfect match for a suit. For these reasons, this is a model we highly recommend to engineers who are attracted to IWC's technical image.

Aquatimer Chronograph Ref. IW376806

　The Aquatimer shows the breadth of IWC's technology. The Aquatimer Chronograph is a diver's watch with a high water resistance of 30 bar, a rotating bezel, and chronograph functions. It reflects the current Aquatimer design codes, such as thick hour and minute hands, clear indexes, and a bezel with a large notch for improved operability, creating a stoic tool watch feel that gives it a charm not found in other diver's watches.

　And the rotating bezel structure is noteworthy. This model has a mechanism whereby the inner bezel (display) inside the crystal rotates when the movable outer bezel located on the outside of the case is operated. This mechanism is made possible by a one-way clutch mechanism housed inside at the 9 o'clock position; when the outer bezel is rotated counterclockwise, the clutch mechanism engages and the inner bezel rotates counterclockwise. On the other hand, when the outer bezel is rotated clockwise, no movement is transmitted, preventing reverse rotation of the inner bezel. By ensuring the water resistance of this unique clutch mechanism, this model achieves water resistance of 30 bar.

　The advantage of adopting this mechanism is that it offers a high level of operability, equivalent to that of a standard outer bezel, and high visibility due to the inner bezel being close to the hour and minute hands. Although it is a complex structure, this model highlights IWC's high level of technical expertise in realizing this in a diver's watch, where reliability is paramount.

　The Aquatimer is the only model in the IWC lineup currently that uses a rotating bezel, and even looking back at the past, it was only seen on a few pilot's watches. For those who need to make full use of the rotating bezel to manage time, or for those who often get their watch wet, this model will be useful thanks to its reliable bezel mechanism and high water resistance.

　It has been 10 years since the Aquatimer was introduced with its current styling and distinctive bezel mechanism. IWC tends to fully redesign each collection in turn, and I believe it is about time for the Aquatimer's turn. If you are attracted to the current Aquatimer's styling, I recommend checking it out in store.