This time, we will take another look at the chronograph models from Omega, a brand that has achieved great success in a wide range of fields. Omega's contribution to space development has been remarkable, and we will look back on the history of the Speedmaster Moonwatch, a representative example of this, while also focusing on other chronograph models.
Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 6, 2025]
Rediscovering Omega's Chronograph Models
Among Omega's wide-ranging collection, one item you can't miss is their chronograph model. When it comes to "Omega chronographs," the most famous is the "Speedmaster Moonwatch," which was officially certified by NASA for use in space, and it can be safely called an iconic piece in the history of wristwatches. In this article, we'll look back at the history of the Speedmaster while also introducing other chronograph models.
"Speedmaster Moonwatch" Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002
Manual winding (Cal. 3861). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.2mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 1,232,000 yen (tax included).
When introducing chronographs, not just Omega, one cannot leave out the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. In 1965, NASA certified the Speedmaster for use in manned space flight and extravehicular activities (EVA), and the Speedmaster became widely known as the watch officially taken into space. Let's dig a little deeper into this point.
In May 1961, John F. Kennedy, the 35th President of the United States, announced the Apollo program, calling for "landing a man on the moon and returning him safely to Earth within ten years." However, at this point, America still lacked sufficient technology to complete the project, and so the Gemini program was launched in 1961 to fill the gap. The Omega Speedmaster was the only watch that passed the tests to meet the required specifications for wristwatches established by the Gemini program. The 1965 test report clearly stated, "Omega wristwatches (referring to the Speedmaster) have been approved for use on the Gemini spacecraft."
Then came the moment when the Speedmaster played a crucial role: those 14 seconds that determined the life or death of the Apollo 13 crew. Apollo 13 suffered an explosion during its voyage to the moon, resulting in the loss of much of its oxygen, water, and power. In order to conserve its final power reserves for the return journey to Earth, the astronauts had to precisely perform the engine thrust to correct its trajectory manually, without the aid of automated controls. And it was the Speedmaster watches on the astronauts' wrists that timed those 14 seconds that determined the difference between life and death (this is depicted in detail in the film "Apollo 13," a must-see for Speedmaster fans).
The current Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, revamped in 2021, has undergone numerous evolutions while retaining its traditional design. The most symbolic of these advancements is the Master Chronometer-certified manual-winding chronograph movement, Cal. 3861. Broadly speaking, improvements include improved isochronism, extended maintenance intervals, and improved magnetic and shock resistance, all achieved through various improvements, including the adoption of a co-axial escapement. Master Chronometer certification by METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) means that every watch is inspected, both individually and after casing, for accuracy, even when exposed to a 15,000 gauss magnetic field, and minimal fluctuations in accuracy due to the remaining power reserve. This is one of the most reliable certifications in terms of practical accuracy. Additionally, the bracelet has been slimmer than previous models, giving it a more classic look and, thanks to smaller links, improving comfort.
Another appealing feature is that it strongly reflects Omega's stance of "inheriting tradition while providing the latest performance." As a representative of Omega and a representative chronograph, I hope you will take another look at it.
"Speedmaster First Omega in Space" Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001
Manual winding (Cal. 3861). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.7 mm, thickness 13.4 mm). Water resistant to 50 meters. Price: 121 million yen (tax included).
The Speedmaster Moonwatch is based on the first model certified by NASA for space activities. So, was it the first Omega watch to be sent into space? In fact, there was a model sent into space before that certification. That was the second Speedmaster model, the Ref. CK 2998. There is a record of NASA astronaut Walter "Wally" Schirra wearing a Ref. CK 2998 as his personal watch during the Sigma 7 mission of Project Mercury, which began on October 3, 1962.
The "Speedmaster First Omega in Space," announced in October 2024, is a reissue of the Ref. CK 2998. A reissue of the Ref. CK 2998 was also released in 2012, but was sadly discontinued. This long-awaited revival marks the first time that the watch has been reborn. What's noteworthy about this reissue is that it features a Master Chronometer movement with a co-axial escapement, resulting in significant performance improvements.
Now, let's take a look at the details. The design is faithful to the original model, with the trademark alpha-shaped hour and minute hands. The gray-blue dial, made with CVD and featuring a three-dimensional logo at 12 o'clock, is finished with Super-LumiNova in a burnt color, creating a vintage feel. Another key point is that, as this model was made before it was certified by NASA, the word "PROFESSIONAL" is not written on the dial.
Another feature of this watch is the case, with its symmetrical, sharp lugs, and its compact size of 39.7mm in diameter. The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, on the other hand, features an asymmetrical case with crown and pusher guards, with a case diameter of 42mm. The difference in size is likely to be an important factor when choosing this watch.
"Speedmaster Pilot" Ref. 332.10.41.51.01.002
Automatic movement (Cal. 9900). 54 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.85mm, thickness 14.7mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,298,000 yen (tax included).
Omega has a strong connection to space thanks to the Speedmaster, and that's not a mistake. However, the brand also has a history of supporting pilots. During World War II, Omega delivered over 11 watches to the British Ministry of Defence, and the first Speedmaster, released in 1957, was a favorite among U.S. Air Force pilots.
The Speedmaster Pilot is a model that reflects this history. As a homage to the original Speedmaster, this model inherits the case shape and twin-lens chronograph. What gives this model its unique appeal is the dial design, which incorporates many of the instrument designs found in cockpits.
The hour and minute hands have been redesigned to a simple pencil shape, as seen on cockpit watches, and the tip of the chronograph second hand is decorated with a long, airplane-shaped ornament. The use of orange here is another detail typical of a pilot's model. The 60-minute and 12-hour counters are coaxially positioned at the 3 o'clock position, and the small seconds hand is located at the 9 o'clock position. Furthermore, the design of the small seconds hand is inspired by the attitude indicator, which displays the plane's inclination relative to the ground.
The dial has a matte finish, ensuring visibility even in bright light. The words "FLIGHT QUALIFIED" are written below the Speedmaster logo, further elevating the watch's exclusivity.
The watch is equipped with the METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, Cal. 9900, which boasts the highest level of reliability by modern standards.
"Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph" Ref. 210.30.44.51.01.001
Automatic (Cal. 9900). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44mm, thickness 17.2mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 132 million yen (tax included).
In addition to the Speedmaster, Omega's extensive collection includes other chronograph models that have long been popular. One such model is the Seamaster chronograph. This time, we will focus on the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph.
The Seamaster was born in 1948 as a multi-purpose watch that could withstand a variety of environments, including high water resistance, and has since spawned many derivative models. The Seamaster's main focus as an informal watch until around the 1960s was inherited by the Seamaster Aqua Terra, while the Seamaster Diver 300M, a diver's watch with improved water resistance, was inherited.
This professional-grade diver's watch is water resistant to 300m and equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation diving. The exterior quality is also excellent, with a polished ceramic bezel insert and pushers, adding a lustrous texture to the watch's appeal. The dial features the collection's iconic wave pattern, laser-engraved.
It is equipped with the METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, Cal. 9900, and features a 60-minute counter and a 12-hour counter arranged coaxially at the 3 o'clock position, as well as a small second hand at the 9 o'clock position.
Seamaster Regatta, Ref. 216.92.46.79.10.001
Quartz (Cal. 5701). Ti case (diameter 46.75 mm, thickness 15.6 mm). 50m water resistant. 1,144,000 yen (tax included).
When you hear "Omega chronograph," many people may imagine a mechanical, analog-display chronograph with a rotating chronograph second hand and various counters on the subdials that operate in tandem. However, Omega's wide-ranging technological capabilities do not end there, and the company also offers a lineup of analog-digital hybrid models.
The Seamaster Regatta is a model commemorating the 37th America's Cup, a global international yacht race for which Omega serves as the official watch. Its concept is a model specialized for timing high-speed boat races. The name "regatta" comes from the Italian word for "to compete," and in the world of yachting, it refers to unpowered racing vessels or races using such vessels.
The America's Cup is the pinnacle of yacht racing, with each country competing to win using race vessels equipped with cutting-edge technology. The measuring equipment used in the races must also be highly sophisticated, and this model was designed to meet this demand.
The most distinctive feature of this model, which is equipped with the newly designed quartz movement, Cal. 5701, is the LCD dial, which is assigned various displays including a stopwatch.It also has a moon phase display at the 3 o'clock position, and is packed with functions useful for operating a boat, such as a sailing logbook, thermometer, accelerometer, and three alarms.
The case is made of lightweight titanium, and it also features noteworthy attention to detail to help you win races, such as the use of different colors to prevent operation and timing errors, a backlight, and the fact that when the backlight is on, the hour, minute, and second hands move away to ensure visibility of the LCD screen.
