Jean-Claude Biver launched his eponymous brand, Biver, in 2023. That same year, he suddenly released some of the most extraordinary complications, including the Carillon Tourbillon, which garnered a lot of attention in the watch industry. However, in the following year, 2024, he made a complete turnaround by releasing a simple, micro-rotor automatic three-hand model, which once again wowed connoisseurs around the world with its high level of perfection.
Photograph by Eiichi Okuyama
Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and writing
Edited & Text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Mastering the invisible parts perfectly. That is the basic principle.
Founder of Biver. Born in Luxembourg in 1949. He built his career at Audemars Piguet before joining the ASUAG Group (now the Swatch Group). In 1982, he revived Blancpain and contributed to the revival of mechanical watches. In 2004, he became CEO of Hublot. Based on the concept of "Art of Fusion," he increased sales by approximately four times in two years. In 2014, he became president of the LVMH Group's watch division. In 2011, he founded JC Biver (now Biver), which bears his name.
"For my first watch, I thought about what would be the best model to express myself. I came to the conclusion that something that could be called the pinnacle of watchmaking was the right thing to embody me, and so I released the Carillon Tourbillon. However, to achieve this, the price range would naturally be very high, and I didn't think it was a model that everyone could afford. So I decided to create something at a more affordable price range. I did away with the minute repeater, tourbillon, and carillon, but it was the same quality model, but with a simple three-hand model without any complicated mechanisms. I came up with this as Biver's entry-level model, and released it last year."
Biver called the new Automatic "the best model of my career over the last 30 years," but what made him say that?
"The concept of Biverwatch is 'Master the Invisibility.' In other words, it is the principle of 'mastering the invisible parts perfectly.' Therefore, the brand's concept is to finish all the parts stored inside perfectly. For example, even a single screw, which is normally invisible from the outside, has its head polished black."
The "Automatic" is a simple watch with three hands, no date, and a micro-rotor automatic movement, released in 2024. Immediately after the company's founding, it only offered high-end complications, but it has been added to the lineup as an entry-level model. This is a limited edition Hourglass Ginza model with a black enamel dial. Automatic movement (Cal. JCB.003). 36 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. 18KRG case (39mm diameter, 10mm thick). Water resistant to 8 bar. Limited to three pieces. Price: 17,435,000 yen (tax included).
It takes about 45 minutes to black polish one screw head.
"There are a total of 92 screws, and even though it takes this long to finish each one, we never cut corners. This is why I called this automatic watch the best watch I have made in my 30-year career. In fact, it takes one craftsman approximately 69 hours to polish all the screws in one watch. In France, this is the equivalent of two weeks of work. It takes two weeks just to finish the invisible screws! (laughs)"
Biver states that "Master the Invisibility" is the guideline that guides him.
"Considering the time and cost involved, this is an incredible feat, but it doesn't contribute to the functionality or performance of the watch at all. It's amazing that so much effort and cost goes into something that can't be seen."
