In 2025, TAG Heuer will finally return as the official timekeeper of Formula 1. At the same time, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 has also undergone a complete redesign. This watch, which incorporates the design of an F1 car, will be available in five different variations. We take a closer look at the history of TAG Heuer's relationship with F1 racing, as well as the history of the TAG Heuer Formula 1.
Text by Daniela Pusch
TAG Heuer: Photos
Photographs by TAG Heuer
Edited by Yousuke Ohashi (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph
2025 marks the 75th anniversary of Formula 1 (F1), a motor racing category, and the dawn of a new era for watches and F1 fans. TAG Heuer served as the official timekeeper of F1 from 1992 to 2003, and now, 25 years later, it's finally returning to that role.
Not only is TAG Heuer involved in F1, but it is also creating a new legend with its signature TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection. Since its launch in 1986, this collection has symbolized speed, thrills, and stylish design. The racing DNA that is embodied in the details of each model in the collection, and the collection's name, Formula 1, speak to the relationship between the TAG Heuer brand and F1.
The DNA of racing is evident in every detail
This relationship began when TAG Heuer (then known as Heuer) collaborated with racer Jo Siffert in 1969. Since then, TAG Heuer has made significant contributions to racing sports through technological innovations such as race timing. In 86, the TAG Heuer logo appeared on the Formula 1 car of the powerful McLaren team, and it became widely recognized as a symbol of the strong bond between TAG Heuer and F1.
That same year, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection was released. The watches in this collection are characterized by their avant-garde diver design and the use of fiberglass, an innovative material for watches. While other Swiss watch brands were pursuing classic elegance in design, TAG Heuer began to explore new possibilities with the new Formula 1, which featured a quartz movement and an avant-garde design.
Nicolas Biebuyck, TAG Heuer Heritage Director, said:
"1986 was a big year for our brand. After being acquired by Technique d'Avant-Garde, we went from being Heuer to becoming TAG Heuer. The new company needed a new collection to represent it, and Formula 1 was that collection.
And here's an interesting fact: the Formula 1 was actually developed before it was reborn as TAG Heuer. The evidence is clear when you look closely at the details. First, the crown, which features the Heuer logo. Then, there's the shield-shaped logo on the strap. The size ratio doesn't match the TAG Heuer logo. However, it does match the Heuer logo.
Next, let's talk about the model name. Thanks to our strong ties with F1 racing, we were able to use the Formula 1 name in our model name. That would be unthinkable today."
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection is still evolving. It first debuted in 86 as a colorful quartz movement model, and in 88, a chronograph model was added to the lineup. The introduction of the chronograph model brought even more sophistication and functionality to the collection, establishing the watch as a favorite among both motorsports fans and everyday wearers.
Nicholas Biebwick continued:
“At the time, Germany was already a market where the brand had established itself, having achieved success with models such as the TAG Heuer Autavia, TAG Heuer Monaco, and TAG Heuer Carrera. Functional chronographs were highly valued in Germany.
However, in markets such as the United States, Great Britain, Australia and Japan, Formula 1 was a huge success, with over 300 million units sold in its first 10 years. Despite this success, the collection was the subject of internal debate.
At the time, management wanted to establish TAG Heuer as a luxury watch brand. They questioned whether Formula 1 should be included in the lineup. However, overwhelming success and high sales figures allowed it to exist. We learned that we needed to "strengthen strategically" rather than just increasing the value of the brand.
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 was the first collection to be released after Heuer was acquired by Technique d'Avant-Garde in 1985. In other words, it was the first collection to bear the "TAG Heuer" name. This watch was created in response to the structural changes in the watch industry that came with the quartz revolution. It was well-received for its durability, affordable price, and luxurious feel.
Nicholas Biebwick continues:
"The collection has gone through several design phases over the years. Following the original model from 1986 to 96, a redesigned next-generation TAG Heuer Formula 1 Series 2 was released. The Formula 1 then went on hiatus in the early 2000s before being revived and further upgraded. In recent years, the lineup has included a model inspired by the C-line case of the TAG Heuer Autavia, which was released in the 1970s.
Today, we are going back to basics, distilling design down to its essentials and creating something new from there. This is true of the glass-box crystal of the TAG Heuer Carrera and the TAG Heuer Monaco with its split-seconds chronograph."
The new TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection
Five new models take the TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection to a new level. The lineup includes four chronographs in different color variations, as well as one special model: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing, a watch that embodies performance and passion.
The new model features an aerodynamic titanium case reminiscent of an F1 car. Some models are finished with black DLC. The rubber strap is ergonomic and provides excellent comfort. The sporty design gives the entire watch a sharp look.
Nicolas Biebuyck claims that the best choice of materials is an essential element of this watch.
"TAG Heuer watches use materials closely associated with the world of motorsport: titanium and carbon fiber are not only very light, but also very durable."
F1 is a fierce battle of cutting-edge automotive technology, where victory or defeat can be decided by tenths, hundredths, or even thousandths of a second. In addition to physics and race strategy, timing is also a key factor. TAG Heuer is a timekeeping specialist, and has been for a long time, even before 2025. For Enzo Ferrari, the company developed the Centigraph HL205, a timekeeping device capable of measuring time to thousandths of a second. This timekeeping device supported Ferrari in Le Mans and in F1 races in 1975, where Niki Lauda won the title. Other teams, including BRM, McLaren, and Surtees, subsequently adopted the device.
Heuer was a partner of Ferrari until 79, when it partnered with McLaren. McLaren's owner, Technique d'Avangarde Group (TAG), acquired Heuer and changed the brand name to TAG Heuer. The new logo was used on the McLaren MP4/2C that Alain Prost used to win the championship in 86.
Yes, 86 was the year that TAG Heuer launched its Formula 1 collection. To this day, Formula 1 watches continue to express racing DNA on the wrists of people around the world. In 2024, the iconic original model was reissued in collaboration with Kith, a lifestyle brand from New York. Ayrton Senna moved to McLaren in 1988 and began wearing TAG Heuer watches in 89. His image is etched in the hearts of many people, both on and off the circuit.
In 92, TAG Heuer became the official timekeeper of F1. While some may disagree, this refers to the "golden age of F1" from the 80s to the 90s. During this time, the TAG Heuer logo was seen everywhere: on racing cars, in F1 movies, and in the hearts of fans. Even people who aren't interested in watches are familiar with the logo.
As of 2025, it's no exaggeration to say that F1 is one of the most successful sports in the world, with approximately 750 million fans worldwide, 42% of whom are women, and one-third are under the age of 35. In 2024, 24 races were watched by 15 billion people in 21 countries.
"In a sport like Formula 1 that combines mental toughness, strategy and innovation, it is only natural that TAG Heuer should be at the heart of it as its official timekeeper," explains Antoine Pin, CEO of TAG Heuer since 24.
Motorsport-inspired design
Every detail of the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 reflects its F1 DNA. The case shape is reminiscent of the aerodynamics of a racing car, the bezel is inspired by an automobile brake disc, and even the indices have a silhouette inspired by the shape of the tip of an F1 car.
It's no exaggeration to say that this watch's ergonomic design sets a new standard for comfort. The optimal distance between the lugs ensures exceptional comfort. A little off topic, but the side view of the case is also noteworthy, as it's stunningly refined. The case is made of lightweight titanium. A black DLC-coated model is also available. This watch is recommended not only for racing sports enthusiasts but also for those who are fashion-conscious.
Nicholas Biebwick explained the case design as follows:
"If you look closely at the case design, you can see a connection to Formula 1 up to now. At first glance, especially when looking at this watch in a flat image, the old and new models may look different. However, when you compare it to the original model reproduced by Kith, you can see a consistent design code and harmony that has continued up to the present day. The Porsche 911 series of cars is a good example of this. You can see continuous development from the original model to the latest models like the 992. This evolutionary flow is something we think about."
Dynamic design with colorful accents
The latest model features an energetic color scheme inspired by night racing. The striking black is accented with vibrant highlights of red, blue, and lime on the case. The use of these accent colors varies depending on the model. One model uses these vivid colors to emphasize the "race track" on the dial. Another model achieves a stunning two-tone color scheme by combining a vibrant red rubber strap with a black case. The hour markers, reminiscent of the tip of an F1 car, are placed around the edge of the dial, seemingly expressing the kinetic energy of the car as it moves forward, seemingly expanding from the center. Take a look below the bezel. A colored bezel insert is found here, giving the watch a playful and sporty look.
Nicholas Bebuyck spoke about the history of the watch and the design of the new model:
"Interestingly, when the collection was being prepared for launch in 1985-86, it could have had a completely different name. The chronograph function was introduced later. The original design had little to do with motorsport. At the time, the Formula 1 name was more of a communication tool for Technique d'Avant Garde's acquisition and partnership with McLaren.
However, over time, we have increasingly incorporated our connection to motorsport into our designs. We intentionally avoided superficial, kitschy design elements. The new Formula 1 is the result of careful consideration by our designers. Elements such as the forged carbon bezel, the titanium case, and the integrated chronograph mechanism reflect our heritage as a watchmaking brand. At the same time, we have incorporated subtle design elements that only become apparent when worn, such as the cutouts on both ends of the strap, which are reminiscent of the air vents on race cars. The rotating bezel is clearly reminiscent of a brake disc. The pushers are protected to prevent accidental activation in a race car cockpit. For me, the new chronograph watch is the first to so consistently integrate racing DNA. It doesn't simply incorporate motorsport elements; it blends them with the DNA of the chronograph.
This is reflected in both the choice of materials and subtle design decisions. In fact, most metal parts in F1 cars are made from titanium, magnesium and special alloys due to their lightness. The use of these materials creates a direct and authentic connection to motorsport. Carbon, the material used for carbon-ceramic brakes and carbon-fibre body parts, is also used in this new model. These elements work together to underline the motorsport character of the watch. The bold colour choice is a testament to the well-thought-out and optimised design.
Those who prefer understated colours should opt for the black model. This wide range of colours was a defining feature of the original Formula 1 collection. In 86, expressing yourself through the colour of your watch was a groundbreaking concept. While it may seem obvious now, we are proud to say that we were one of the first luxury Swiss watch brands to incorporate colour into our designs in this way."
Oracle Red Bull Racing Edition
A special highlight of the collection is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing: this eye-catching special edition combines innovative design with the distinctive livery of the Oracle Red Bull Racing team.
Nicholas Biebwick describes the model as follows:
"The design picks up on Red Bull's signature colors: deep blue, bright yellow and powerful red. The case back features a subtle embossed design that highlights the importance of this partnership. This collaboration is very important to us. We have been a proud partner of Red Bull Racing since 2016 and our relationship has brought us exceptional success over the years. We are now approaching the 10th year of this partnership.
Our new contract with F1 will not affect our relationship with Red Bull Racing, which has been extended by several years and will now serve as the official timekeeper for F1. It is very rare to find a brand that supports both the sport and the teams. This will allow us to communicate more deeply and intensively with our fans and tell stronger stories. The 2025 season will be an unprecedented highlight, with Lewis Hamilton moving to Ferrari and exciting technological innovations. The new regulations to be announced in 26 will also bring further challenges.
Stylish and technically impressive
The watches in the new collection are both stylish and high-performance machines. Equipped with Caliber 16, based on Sellita's Caliber SW500, they offer excellent water resistance of 200m. These new models combine high functionality with aesthetic appeal that will delight watch enthusiasts around the world.
With the transition from quartz to automatic movements, the Formula 1 collection has opened up a new dimension. For many, it will continue to serve as an introduction to the world of mechanical chronographs and their first encounter with the TAG Heuer brand. Prices start at 704,000 yen. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing is priced at 814,000 yen.
