The appeal of this micro-brand is its freedom to break away from conventional boundaries.

In recent years, some watch enthusiasts have begun to turn their attention to microbrands rather than major brands. One of the reasons for this is their free and original designs that are not bound by existing frameworks. Timepieces full of ideas never before seen in the watch world are appearing one after another, greatly stimulating the curiosity of collectors who are not satisfied with mainstream brands. Sharon Chan, Director of Watches at Bonhams Hong Kong, introduces the appeal of microbrands, which are full of independence and innovation.

Small but powerful microbrands attract the attention of collectors tired of major brands

　When watch brands are acquired by major capital, they often shorten the cycle of new product releases in order to stabilize their performance and increase sales. However, this has resulted in the market being flooded with similar watches, and consumers are gradually becoming bored with mainstream brands. Some collectors, rebelling against this trend, have begun to turn their attention to small, independent brands with unique personalities, known as "microbrands."

Microbrands attract discerning collectors

　Microbrands typically produce small quantities and emphasize independence and innovation. They don't flaunt luxury or pursue complications. They also don't pander to trends. At a recent watch enthusiasts' gathering, several attendees were showing off their microbrand watches. Among them, the Zentia "Saute" with its jumping hour mechanism and malachite dial drew particular attention.

　The collectors who attended this gathering own many masterpieces equipped with complex mechanisms such as grande sonnerie, split-second chronograph, and tourbillon, and even collect works by independent watchmakers that are rarely seen. These dedicated collectors showed just as much affection for the Zentia Saute, which was released for around HK$8000 (approximately 149,120 yen, 1 HK$ = 18.64 yen, as of May 17, 2025), as they do for famous luxury watches.

Attractively affordable prices

　There are several reasons why microbrands have become so popular in the watch world over the past few years. First, they are affordable. Even watch enthusiasts with financial means are often cautious when it comes to purchasing a watch. The appeal of microbrands is that they are relatively affordable and offer a fresh feel that is different from other brands.

　In addition, as people begin traveling again after the COVID-19 pandemic, if they find a watch they like while traveling, a microbrand will be easier to obtain and they won't have to worry as much about safety when carrying it around as they would with a mainstream brand. Furthermore, they will have the peace of mind of not having to worry too much about losing money when reselling it.

Free ideas that arouse collectors' curiosity

　Aside from the price point, the designs of microbrands can sometimes be more original than the works of independent watchmakers. Microbrands are free to freely express the unrestrained designs and combinations of mechanisms that independent watchmakers would shy away from or even disregard. It is this freedom that piques the curiosity of collectors who are tired of mainstream brands.

　In addition, many of these high-end customers tend to want watches that are unique, and microbrands that produce limited editions perfectly meet this need.

Is "individuality" important in the luxury watch market?

　This new trend is already evident in the watch auction market. For example, microbrands were seen at a watch auction held last year at Bonhams in Hong Kong. The two watches sold were the "20.11 Mosaic" by Ming, a brand based in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and the "Calendrier Type 1" by Chronobunkyo Tokyo, Japan. Both of these watches sold for prices that exceeded their pre-auction estimates, demonstrating that the luxury watch market is now placing importance not just on asset value, but also on "individuality."

Some brands allow for detailed orders

From the perspective of "individuality," microbrands have another advantage: they are not bound by stereotypes or traditions, and allow for extremely free customization. Everything from the shape of the indexes and hands to the dial and case material can be meticulously customized, and it is not uncommon for them to even offer engraving services.

　This flexibility in design creates a direct dialogue and connection between the brand and the buyer, ultimately increasing brand loyalty.

Social media is a boon for microbrands

　Furthermore, the spread of social media has also helped drive the growth of microbrands, allowing users to effectively communicate their brand philosophy and individuality to their target audience without needing a large marketing budget.

Pay attention to microbrands

　As the global economy slows, microbrands are emerging as a force to be reckoned with in the new era. Their appeal as affordable yet unique brands is sure to remain a force to be reckoned with.