A unique yet solid finish. A review of the latest Spinica "Tesei" model.

Here is our impression of the Tesei Forged Carbon Automatic, a limited edition model from Tesei, which is positioned in Spinniker's high-end series. As the name suggests, the watch uses forged carbon for the bezel insert and dial, and the entire watch is coated with luminous paint, with the design concept likening the unique texture of forged carbon to "frost seen on a clear winter plateau." Let's take a closer look at this watch's unique design and solid finish.

Tesei is a high-end spinner series made of forged carbon.

　This time, I'll be reviewing the Tesei Forged Carbon Automatic, a limited edition model from Tesei, which is part of Spinnikar's high-end series. Spinnikar is an Italian brand known for its lineup of sports watches themed around marine sports such as yachting and freediving. It arrived in Japan in 2019.

　While each model is rooted in the design of a traditional diver's watch, there are models such as the "Dumas" that incorporates a 1970s taste, the modern "Hass", and the "Bradner" that pays homage to the compressor case.The author previously reviewed the iconic "Piccard," which boasts 550m water resistance and a large, domed crystal.In addition to models with a twist,A Nessie-themed model purchased by Yosuke Ohashi of the Chronos Japan editorial department.There are also pop and humorous models such as these.

　The main topics of this model are that it uses forged carbon and that the entire watch is coated with luminous paint. The design concept is "frost like that seen on a clear winter plateau." Let's take a look at each of these points, which may seem unrelated at first glance.

History and Characteristics of Forged Carbon

Forged carbon, which means "forged carbon," is made by mixing carbon fiber and resin and pressing them under high temperature and pressure to form a shape. In the watch industry, Audemars Piguet is said to have first used it in the Royal Oak Offshore series in 2007, which is quite early compared to other industries. Even Lamborghini, which actively uses carbon materials, only used a forged carbon monocoque shell called "Forged Composite" in the Aventador LP700-4 in 2011.

　Carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) has been used for a longer period than forged carbon, and when people hear the word "carbon," they generally imagine a material with visible fiber weave. As it looks like, long carbon fibers are woven together into sheets, which are then solidified and molded with resin. Due to the nature of this manufacturing process, sheets must be stacked to create thick parts, which can sometimes restrict design.

　In contrast, forged carbon is made by impregnating short, crushed carbon fibers with resin and molding them, which makes it easy to manufacture thick, complex-shaped parts. Another advantage is that it is easy to machine. The manufacturing method, in which the carbon fibers are crushed and arranged randomly, creates a marbled pattern resembling metal crystals or ores, which is a distinctive feature of the exterior and is attracting attention as a major difference from CFRP.

Forged carbon used by Tesei

　Spinniker has focused on the appeal of the marbled pattern unique to forged carbon and has used it to accentuate this in the Tesei Forged Carbon Automatic. Forged carbon is used for the bezel insert, dial, and ring components that house the indexes.

　The bezel insert is made of white resin mixed with luminous paint, which accentuates the marble pattern. In the dark, it glows and the flickering pattern appears.

　The dial is based on a black color tone that resembles carbon fiber, and the carbon fiber texture can be seen slightly in indoor lighting. The impression changes when you take it outside on a sunny day, when the dial surface, which previously appeared flat, becomes illuminated with overlapping carbon fiber fragments in a three-dimensional pattern. Glow-in-the-dark paint has also been mixed in here, and when the paint glows, the carbon fiber texture stands out.

　The design concept for this piece is to liken these carbon fragments and the luminescent paint to "frost seen on a clear winter plateau."

Luminous paint is also used on the strap

　Reflecting this design concept, the white rubber strap that comes with the watch has luminous paint mixed in. I recall that Roger Dubuis has also used this technique on straps, but it is certainly rare to see it being used in this way.

　What I found interesting was the way the phosphorescent material was mixed in; it was not uniform but had varying shades to create a frosted sparkle. I wasn't sure if it was simply shades or differences in the depth to which the phosphorescent paint particles were buried, but the brightly glowing areas and the more subdued glowing areas gave a sense of depth, leading to a three-dimensional effect.

　What's even more unique is that the replacement nylon strap that comes with it is also completely luminous. I don't recall ever seeing a nylon strap that's completely luminous (though I have seen ones with luminous lines), and I suspect that this is the first time in the world that both the standard strap and the included strap are luminous, but there seems to be no way to confirm this.

The characteristic glow is surprisingly gentle.

　When I received this watch, I casually placed it on a table and left it under fluorescent lighting for a while. When I turned off the lights, I was surprised to see the luminous strap shining brightly in the darkness. The luminescence of the strap was so clear and easy to understand. The luminescence of the scale engraved on the bezel insert was also clear, ensuring visibility. The engraving of this scale was sharp and looked good. This is surely a reflection of the excellent workability of forged carbon.

　On the other hand, when the luminance is at the level of indoor lighting, the dial glows only faintly, highlighting the carbon fragments. While some people believe that the luminous dial improves legibility, others say it reduces the contrast with the indices and hands, I personally feel that it improves legibility. If I had to choose, I'd be happier if the hands and indices were a little more luminous.

　The impressions were made in early May, so it is unknown how the watch will perform when exposed to the increasingly strong sunlight. However, based on my impressions after using it for a while, I predict that there will be no issues specific to this watch, such as a significant reduction in visibility. As an exception, if you wear this watch and enter a movie theater on a clear summer day, it might be a good idea to turn off your smartphone and put the watch in your bag at the same time.

Tesei's unique dial design for enhanced visibility

　Let's take another look at the dial design. The indices are tall, and the hour hand moves lower than the top of the indices. The minute hand moves just above the top of the indices. This allows the hour hand to be positioned low and close to the dial, and facing the indices, improving visibility. The minute hand is close in height to the indices, also improving visibility and minimizing reading errors.

　At first, I felt something was off about the watch's appearance, as it looked different from other watches, but I also felt that it was easy to read the time. After comparing it with other watches, I realized that the reason for this was the difference in height between the indices and the hands. Looking back at the designs of other companies that specialize in diver's watches, I can see that they have made efforts to bring the indices and hands closer together, but I have not found any recent models that are exactly like this one, and I think this is a testament to the originality of Spinnikar and Tesei.

The strap is well-finished, so the wearing comfort is satisfactory.

　The case diameter is 43mm, and the finished thickness of the watch is 16.5mm. Perhaps because the middle case is thin and the silhouette has a somewhat classical impression, it appears thinner than the actual measurements suggest. When I put it on, the rubber strap was flexible, fit well, and felt smooth and comfortable against the skin. The back of the strap has a wavy pattern that provides grip, and it felt like it held the fairly large watch body firmly in place. The lightweight design achieved by using a rubber strap also seems to contribute to an improved wearing comfort. On the other hand, the thin middle case causes the case back to protrude significantly, and the lugs are not bent downwards much, resulting in some floating in the lugs.

　Overall, the fit is passable, but not excellent, and I would strongly recommend that anyone with a thin wrist try it on. Replacing the strap with a nylon strap improves the fit, but it tends to sit higher on the waist, so it would be interesting for owners to try it out in various ways.

Solid construction and basic performance

　The edges of the case side and the borders between the faces are well-defined and look good. The rotating bezel has little play and rotates with a clear clicking sound. The notches on the bezel edge are soft and gentle to the touch, which I personally like. This model also boasts a high water resistance of 300m and a helium escape valve at 9 o'clock, making it suitable for saturation diving.

　The automatic movement is the Seiko Cal. NH35, which is renowned for its reliability. The power reserve is approximately 41 hours, which is not long by modern standards, but I felt it was sufficient, and perhaps due to its high winding efficiency, it continued to run for longer than I expected.

The balance between originality and satisfaction in this work

　This model is priced at 93,500 yen (tax included), and is limited to 200 pieces worldwide. Considering its forged carbon construction, its unique design that uses almost luminous paint throughout, and its solid construction, I felt that this price was attractive. Another reason I felt that way was that the packaging was also appealing. The model arrived in its owner's hands in a hard case that appeared to be highly waterproof and shock-resistant, and the texture of this case was high, suggesting that it would be able to be used for a long time.

　In my recent Piccard review, I said, "(Spinnikar) was a fun project, thinking that it would be nice to have at least one model like this, and completed it with a lot of fun..." This is certainly true of this watch, as the combination of forged carbon and luminous paint, combined with "frost," successfully fits into the product concept, and what's appealing about it is that it stays true to its core as a practical, affordable tool watch. I'm convinced that the appeal of Spinnikar lies in this sense of balance and honest craftsmanship.