This is the trend! Writer Shinichi Sato selects small watches with a case diameter of 38mm or less

Each brand is expanding their lineup with smaller models with case diameters of 38mm or less, likely reflecting the diversifying tastes of consumers and the growing number of female watch fans. Rather than simply downsizing their larger models, many brands are incorporating past icons into their designs, or balancing the design based on larger models, resulting in a lineup packed with models with high basic performance and a high level of refinement. This time, we'll be introducing watches recommended by writer Shinichi Sato among the smaller models with case diameters of 38mm or less.

Introducing watches with case diameters of 38mm or less that fit comfortably on the wrist

　I believe that the recent trend regarding the "size" of watch cases is to generally divide them into large and small diameter models, with a diameter of 40mm as the standard. The perception of size varies depending on the design, but generally, around 38mm is a sleek design that suits a wide range of users, while the 34-36mm size, which was the standard for men's watches from the 1960s, can be said to be a compact design with a vintage feel.

　With this in mind, this article focuses on models with small case diameters of 38mm or less. The recent surge in interest in small-diameter models and the resulting expansion of manufacturers' lineups reflects a reversal of the "big, thick" trend. At the same time, it's also important to note that the number of attractive options is increasing for those with thin wrists, those who prefer a vintage feel, and women who want to incorporate the styling of men's models. My personal recommendation is to wear a long-sleeved shirt when trying on a small-diameter model in-store. This allows you to get a feel for how well the watch fits on your sleeve, as well as consider the balance of the design.

　Now, let me introduce my recommended models, ranging from 38mm diameter models to the more compact 35mm models.

Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection" Ref. SBGX263

　The first is the Ref. SBGX263 from the Heritage Collection, selected from Grand Seiko, a name synonymous with high-quality Japanese practical watches. The design reflects the Grand Seiko style, with its distinctive features including the powerful, multifaceted hands and indices, as well as the lines on the case side that are drawn by tangents extending from the circular dial.

　In contrast to the edgy case shapes of recent Grand Seiko models, this model has a slightly softer and gentler silhouette, giving it a reassuring and somewhat nostalgic look. Another attractive feature is that it comes with a bracelet as standard, which is considered essential in the hot and humid Japanese market.

　The watch is equipped with the Cal. 9F62 quartz movement, which is more compact than the Cal. 9F8 series, yet retains its superior performance. Key features include a twin-pulse control motor that accurately drives the large hands, a key element of the design and enhancing legibility; a regulator switch that further enhances the precision of the high-precision quartz movement; a temperature compensation program that corrects for changes in precision due to temperature differences; and an instantaneous date change calendar that is adjusted to instantly change with the change of date. These features enhance the high precision and ease of use expected of a luxury watch, and are sure to be reasons to choose a Grand Seiko quartz model as a high-quality, practical watch that will support your daily life.

　With a case diameter of 37.0mm, which is a small diameter as part of the current theme, and a thickness of just 10.0mm, it is expected to be comfortable to wear, which is another reason why this watch was selected.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M, Ref. 220.10.38.20.01.004

　Our second pick is the 38mm case diameter model of the Seamaster Aqua Terra, a flagship informal watch from Omega's extensive collection. The Seamaster was launched in 1948 as a multi-purpose watch capable of withstanding a variety of environments, including high water resistance, and has spawned many derivative models. The Seamaster Diver 300M, now known as the "Bond watch," is an evolution of the professional model with enhanced water resistance, and the Seamaster's informal watch aspect, which was the core of the Seamaster until around the 1960s, has been passed down to the Seamaster Aqua Terra.

　The current Seamaster design codes are its case shape, minute hand with an arrow-shaped design, wedge-shaped indexes, and date display at 6 o'clock. Traditionally, many models featured a teak dial, inspired by the decks of ships, but in recent years, models incorporating flat finishes and new expressive techniques such as gradations have become more common, broadening the range of options. The dial of this model also features a flat design with a black lacquer finish, adding a more basic touch. Many users will likely prefer a finish like this one, which suits a wider range of occasions.

　The movement is the automatic Cal. 8800, and the fact that it has been certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) is a major factor when choosing this watch, or any other Omega model. Master Chronometer certification means that the movement itself and the cased watch have been inspected to ensure that accuracy is maintained even when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss, and that there is minimal fluctuation in accuracy due to the remaining power reserve. This is one of the most reliable certifications in terms of practical accuracy, and is a good enough reason to choose this watch.

Tudor Black Bay 54, Ref. M79000N-0001

　Our third pick is the Tudor Black Bay 54. Since the dawn of diver's watches, a case diameter of around 40mm has been the industry standard to ensure water resistance, robustness for increased reliability, and good legibility. Therefore, models smaller than this have historically been rare.

　It is against this backdrop that the Black Bay 54 was released. This model has a 37mm case diameter, modeled after the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7922, Tudor's first diver's watch released in 1954, and incorporates its essence while incorporating the design codes of the current Black Bay.

　I have been in charge of reviewing the Black Bay several times, and each time I have been impressed by the skillful craftsmanship. Here's one example: The case has a smooth surface, a rose emblem is delicately engraved on the top of the crown, and, combined with the thin bezel, it gives off a modern yet classic impression. This makes it easy to incorporate into a wide range of styles. The bezel has little play and is easy to operate. The bracelet is also of high quality, with the precision of the clasp and the refinement of the size adjustment mechanism being particularly impressive.

　The automatic movement, Cal. MT5400, made by Kenissi, is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), offering high practical precision and a smooth winding and time-setting feel with the crown. Its power reserve of approximately 70 hours and its "weekend proof" design, meaning it continues to run even when the watch is taken off on the weekend, make it a perfect match for modern lifestyles and demonstrate the performance required.

　The reason this watch was selected is because of its high overall score, which includes inheriting Tudor's history while boasting excellent exterior quality by modern standards, excellent construction in every area, and a movement with high basic performance.

Longines "Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve" Ref. L16484782

　Next up is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Longines has a wide and fascinating lineup, including the neo-classical Master, which incorporates a classic taste and was proposed as an entirely new collection; the Conquest, which originated in the company's first watch collection released in 1954 and is now a line of modern tool watches; the Spirit, which continues the lineage of pilot's watches; the Elegance, a dress watch; and the Heritage, which brings back icons of the past for the modern era. Looking at the collection from a bird's eye view, from modern to vintage, from sports to dress, you can clearly see the depth of Longines's range.

　This model commemorates the 70th anniversary of the long-running Conquest, and as the model name suggests, it features a power reserve indicator on a rotating disc in the center of the dial. Its classic round case with lugs, bombé dial, champagne-colored dial, and domed crystal all lend it a vintage feel. The date display at 12 o'clock is also a design found in vintage Conquest models.

　The automatic movement, Cal. L896, has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, which is sufficient by modern standards. Furthermore, the power reserve display, a feature of this watch, provides a sense of security in terms of operation. Personally, I feel that a typical power reserve display tends to disrupt the symmetrical design and make the dial layout cluttered. However, the central rotating disc in this watch creates a unique yet simple design, which is appealing.

　In addition to this model, Longines also offers other compact models with a vintage feel, such as the 38mm "Conquest Heritage" Ref. L1.649.4.52.2 and the "Longines Master Collection" Ref. L2.843.4.73.2 (although its 38.5mm case diameter falls outside the selection criteria for this model). If you are looking for a small-diameter model, this is a brand you should consider.

Tissot "Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm" Ref. T137.207.33.021.00

　While the Longines Conquest Heritage has a taste of the pre-1960s, the Tissot PRX is a model that incorporates a design from the 1970s. Based on the design of a quartz movement model released in 1978, the model name combines "Precise and Robust" with the "X" that indicates water resistance to 10 bar.

　The "Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35MM" featured this time is a 35mm model with a yellow gold PVD coating and a yellow gold-colored dial. The monotone coordination, including the hour, minute, and second hands, is yellow gold, giving it a tasteful flamboyance unique to the 1970s that differs from the elegance and brilliance of precious metal models. It is equipped with the automatic movement Cal. Powermatic 80, which has a power reserve of approximately 80 hours, making it a model with remarkable performance even among models in the same price range.

　The Tissot PRX is also attractive for its wide variety of variations, with stainless steel case models offering a wide range of dial colors, including silver, ice blue, and moss green, and a variety of drive systems, including automatic and quartz models. While the dials of quartz models have a flat finish, mechanical models, including this one, feature a three-dimensional embossed checkered pattern dial, creating a rich and varied finish.

　In addition to the 35mm model, a 40mm model is also available, but if you want to experience the taste of the 1970s, I recommend the 35mm model. The case thickness is kept to 10.9mm, which also helps create a classic impression.