At its first-ever exhibition at LVMH Watch Week, Tiffany unveiled a masterpiece that combined the worlds of high jewelry and haute horlogerie. With the opening of its Ginza flagship store approaching in July, the brand also unveiled three exclusive watches. Along with the new solar-powered "Rope by Tiffany" watch, we spoke with Nicolas Beau, head of watchmaking, about the past and future of the new Tiffany.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Hiroyuki Suzuki: Interview and text
Edited & Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Tiffany's High-End Watchmaking
After joining the LVMH Group in 2021, Tiffany made its long-awaited debut at LVMH Watch Week this year. Nicolas Beau, who was invited by Chanel in 2021, is now Vice President of Tiffany Horlogerie, and the brand has begun exploring a new approach to watchmaking. The new Haute Horlogerie collection, named after the legendary jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger, represents the pinnacle of high-end watchmaking to date. Ahead of the grand opening of Tiffany Ginza, Asia's largest flagship store, in July, three limited edition models have been announced.
This flying tourbillon watch is based on the "Bird on a Rock" brooch designed by Jean Schlumberger. Two birds flap across a dial inlaid with natural turquoise. This turquoise was mined from a closed Arizona mine, a precious stone now lost. It's hand-wound (Cal. AFT24T01). It beats at 21,600 vph. It has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. It has an 18k white gold case (39mm diameter). It's water resistant to 3 bar. Only five pieces of each are available at Tiffany & Co. Ginza. Please inquire for price.
First up is the "Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany" flying tourbillon, which attracted a great deal of attention at the recent LVMH Watch Week. The offset hour and minute dial at 1 o'clock is set with yellow diamonds or blue sapphires surrounded by white diamonds, and is placed on top of the main dial, which is inlaid with turquoise. The two birds flying through the turquoise sky are a homage to Schlumberger's famous "Birds on a Rock" brooch. The 18K white gold case is adorned with a diamond-paved snow setting, and the crown is reminiscent of a six-prong Tiffany® setting.
The movement is also impressive, with a bespoke hand-wound tourbillon from Artim, a complex watchmaking workshop in the Jura canton, beating at 6 vibrations per second and boasting a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The barrel bridge and the bridge supporting the carriage also feature a six-prong design. Another distinctive feature is the faceted crystal cover covering the carriage, which can be seen from the dial side.
This high-jewelry piece features an aquamarine crystal that mimics the cutting of a Tiffany diamond. Aquamarines are also set in part of the bracelet. Quartz movement. 18K white gold case (27mm x 27mm). Exclusive to Tiffany Ginza. Price upon request.
Another highlight is the limited edition of the unique "Carat 128" aquamarine watch. A stunning masterpiece of high jewelry, it features an aquamarine cut to resemble the Tiffany Diamond as the crystal. The "Carat 128" bracelet is adorned with 251 diamonds, but the 12 stones closest to the case of the Tiffany Ginza limited edition watch have been replaced with aquamarines (over 22 carats of diamonds, 4.8 carats of aquamarines). The bracelet itself moves smoothly, but has just the right amount of rigidity in the left-right and twisting directions, exuding the restraint of a jewelry brand.
"We have launched five collections over the past two years, and one thing we have always been conscious of is how to combine our history as a jewelry brand with watchmaking."
This is what Nicolas Baud, head of Tiffany Horlogerie (the watchmaking division), had to say. However, even just looking at the price range, it seems like Tiffany watches today are too spread out across a wide range. What's more, their style is more feminine than ever before. How does the new Tiffany analyze its core target audience for watches?
This is a small 27mm case with a mother-of-pearl dial. Available in two sizes and two colors, there are four styles in total. 38 diamonds (39 for the 33mm case) are set between the concentrically layered ropes. Solar movement. 18K yellow gold + diamond case (27mm diameter). 2,695,000 yen (tax included).
(Left) Rope by Tiffany watch, 33mm
This is a revolutionary solar-powered jewelry watch. The movement was developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret, highlighting the synergy created by the LVMH Group's involvement. The black dial is made with a thin layer of translucent lacquer, and features a solar cell directly below the dial. Solar movement. 18K yellow gold + diamond case (33mm diameter). Price: 3,685,000 yen (tax included).
"We don't create watches with a specific segment in mind. If our products end up reaching a wide range of segments, that is the result of the diversity of our designs. This is what Tiffany is all about. Furthermore, when talking about our strategy as a jeweler, it is natural to lean towards femininity. However, these days, men are also looking for such things. The changes in the jewelry industry over the past 20 years are proof of this. We should create products that combine the sensibilities of both parties."
A new product that symbolizes this diversity at Tiffany is the "Rope by Tiffany" watch, also adapted from the Schlumberger archives. Diamonds are set in the space separated by two concentric ropes. The movement is solar-powered, a groundbreaking innovation. Protecting and developing its heritage, Tiffany's new leap forward has only just begun.
After graduating from ISG in France, he worked at Cartier and other companies before joining Chanel. During his 19 years there, he was in charge of the jewelry and watch departments, as well as working on infrastructure development related to watchmaking, before joining Tiffany in 2021. When asked what his current mission is, he replied, "To convey the greatness of Tiffany's 65 points."
【お 詫 び と 訂正】
This article was originally published on pages 142-145 of the July issue (No. 119) of Chronos Japan, released on June 6, 2025. There was an error on page 143 of the article. The correct version is as follows. We apologize to our readers and all those involved and would like to make this correction.
P.143 "Carat 128" Photo Caption (Explanation) Carat weight of the rough stone
Incorrect: 39.32ct
Positive: 34.52ct
