Inspirational Design: Focusing on Three Chopard Watches from 2025

Chopard is increasing its presence at Watches & Wonders Geneva. This year, two of its signature collections will be the center of attention: the LUC, which continues to steadily evolve by making full use of its groundbreaking in-house movements, and the Alpine Eagle, which leads a new generation of sporty elegance. The advanced technology of the Manufacture and Chopard's refined aesthetic sense are both present in every detail of the design, which never ceases to fascinate watch enthusiasts.

"LUC" equipped with an in-house movement

　Chopard Manufacture's in-house movements are now considered one of the great legacies of the Swiss watch industry. Next year marks the 30th anniversary of the launch of the LUC 1.96 (then the name) as a standalone movement in 1996. Alongside the LUC 1.96, the LUC 1.98 (then the name), developed in 1998, also attracted attention from its contemporaries. Equipped with the world's first quadruple barrel, this hand-wound movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, achieving an astounding power reserve of approximately 216 hours (approximately 9 days). Furthermore, it has been certified as a chronometer by COSC and has received the Geneva Hallmark, making it a true masterpiece of high performance and aesthetic finish. I remember the designers confident that no other modern movement could rival it.

　The first LUC Quattro debuted in 2000 equipped with the in-house movement LUC 1.98, featuring patented Quattro technology. This year, to commemorate the 25th anniversary of this masterpiece, the fourth-generation LUC Quattro Mark IV has been released. Not only does it feature a groundbreaking movement that has evolved from the original, but the design, which could be described as a full model change, has made it even more appealing than before.

　The case is available in two materials: 18K ethical rose gold and platinum 950. Particularly striking are the platinum models, which, unlike steel, silver, or white gold, exude exceptional elegance with their cool, noble white brilliance. Platinum, with its high density, corrosion and abrasion resistance, and excellent chemical stability, has long been known as the "king of precious metals" and was used in the original Quattro. Chopard only uses platinum 950, with a purity of 95%. Chopard has also recently begun hand-engraving rare platinum models with a bee motif as an identification mark. The LUC Quattro Mark IV features this motif on the case middle. Even a small bee carries great significance. Diligent, honest, and humble, the bee represents the essence of collaborative effort and solidarity, and has been a symbol of the Maison's values ​​since the time of its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, in the 19th century. This is why Chopard chose the bee, more than just a symbol.

　The most appealing aspect of the LUC Quattro Mark IV design is its combination of understatement and luxury. This applies not only to platinum itself, but also to the newly developed case made from this material. The case, now more compact than before at 39mm in diameter and 10.40mm thick, features a delicately satin-finished middle case that tapers gently from the bezel to the caseback, creating a basin-like curve. Separate lugs are brazed to the case to match this subtle line. While it may appear simple from the front, it is actually an extremely intricate design that requires meticulous design and processing techniques.

　The same can be said for the dial. The simplification of the dial, which has removed the power reserve display that had been the signature of the Quattro, the exquisite fusion of the frosted textured finish with sky blue, and the contrast between the blue color of the dial and the hands and applied indexes made of 18K ethical white gold, all express a sense of understatement and luxury at the same time. Also not to be missed are the crown, which is basin-shaped like the case and easy to operate, and the strap, which newly incorporates an interchangeable system.

　Discovering the hidden charms of this watch one by one will be a joy for any watch enthusiast, as this is a masterpiece from Chopard that embodies the very essence of quiet luxury.

Alpine Eagle: The epitome of sporty elegance

　Launched in 2019 as a new generation collection that embodies Chopard's sporty elegance, the Alpine Eagle has evolved while maintaining its iconic design. Its development was proposed by Karl-Fritz Scheufele, son of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and his youthful sensibilities are gradually being reflected in the products.

　The Alpine Eagle 41SL Cadence 8HF is a symbol of this. According to Karl-Fritz Scheufele, who visited Japan with the latest model for 25 years, it is the lightest model in the collection's history and is also extremely sophisticated in terms of technology.

The case and the crown, engraved with a compass rose motif, are both made of bead-blasted ceramized titanium.

The rubber strap with titanium inserts, which was adopted to reduce weight, has been sandblasted in the same way as the case to create a unified look.

　The case and bezel, wrapped in a gray anthracite color that exudes a bold, high-tech feel, are crafted from a material called ceramized titanium. Developed for the aerospace and automotive industries, ceramized titanium is ultra-lightweight and extremely hard, and has also been used in watches such as the LUC GMT and LUC Full Strike. He also points out that the same material has been used for the baseplate and bridges of the Caliber Chopard 01.14-C, which features a patented high-speed regulating mechanism that beats at 57,600 vibrations per hour, thereby reducing the movement's weight. Chopard has made various improvements to this ultra-high-frequency movement since equipping the Caliber LUC 01.06-L, the original caliber, in the LUC 8HF in 2012, but this latest movement is quite different from the previous one.

　The attempt to reduce weight is also evident in the replacement of the metal bracelet with a rubber strap. It's clear that this watch has gone further than its predecessor, released two years ago, which featured a titanium exterior and the same movement. Chopard's sense of style, which has been cultivated through the years of technological innovation while retaining the distinctive design of the Alpine Eagle, to create a watch that leads to the future, is nothing short of outstanding.

　Another attractive new model in the Alpine Eagle lineup is the Alpine Eagle 41XP CS Platinum. As its name suggests, the case diameter is 41mm, XP stands for ultra-thin 8mm, CS stands for center seconds, and it's made of platinum. As mentioned earlier, Chopard only uses the highest purity platinum 950 for its watches, and Karl-Fritz Scheufele explains that this new Alpine Eagle is the first to be crafted from this noble material. It's certainly a model unlike any other. The case diameter and thinness are based on the structure of the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, released in 22, with LucentSteel™ replaced by platinum. And, of course, the identifying mark, a bee, is engraved on the left side of the case to confirm its platinum construction.

　Even more noteworthy is the new bracelet design, which is also a first for this watch. Karl-Fritz Scheufele explains that the Alpine Eagle's wide bracelet was created to reflect the image of the St. Moritz, which inspired it, but to give the platinum model a more elegant look, he adopted a tapered design that gradually narrows towards the buckle. Indeed, as he said, the bracelet further enhances the aesthetic beauty of the ultra-thin case. Nevertheless, the Alpine Eagle's unique bracelet, with its complex structure and delicate finishing that requires advanced craftsmanship, was so perfectly reproduced in platinum that only Chopard, with its expertise in precious metals, could do so.

The bee motif, newly adopted as an identification mark for platinum models, is hand-engraved on the left side of the case.

The case back reveals the Cal. LUC 96.42-L, which is renowned for its high performance and high quality.

　Another distinctive feature of the Alpine Eagle is its dial, which carries a message. The blue gradation is inspired by the changing color of Alpine glaciers, which are under threat from global warming. Environmental awareness and sustainability are Chopard's philosophies, which also give the watch a special appeal and value.