A challenge for the sake of challenge. What is Norqain's growth strategy in the luxury watch market?

A recent trend in the watch market is the increasing attention being paid to newly emerging, independently managed brands. Among these "independent brands," Norqain is one that has achieved great success. What is the company's strategy that has enabled it to show momentum for growth even in a luxury watch market where there are concerns about an economic slowdown? We spoke to Vice President Tobias Kaffer about the company's strategy.

Tobias Kaffer, Vice President of Swiss Norqain, visits Japan with his new product, "Wild One"

　NORQAIN is a brand founded by Ben Kaffer in 2018. The brand logo, consisting of two "N"s, represents the peak of the Swiss Alps, where NORQAIN was founded, and the brand's philosophy is to "resonate with the spirit of brave mountaineers." This philosophy is also reflected in its products, with three core collections: "Adventure," "Freedom," and "Independence," which includes the "Wild One," a central model in NORQAIN watches in recent years. All of the collections are robust sports watches that can be used in harsh environments such as mountain climbing.

　Tobias Kaffer, Norqain's vice president and the founder's younger brother, visited Japan.

　During his visit to Japan, Tobias Kaffer brought with him the new Wild One Skeleton 39mm, a model for 2025. We will delve deeper into the details of this new watch separately on webChronos, but hearing about the motivation behind the development of this model gives us insight into Norqain's current success and the company's growth strategy in the current difficult situation in the luxury watch market.

Challenge is Norqain's strategy

　As I listened to him talk about the new Wild One Skeleton 39mm and his management, I got the sense that "challenge" is Norqain's strategy.

The new Wild One was realized through numerous challenges

　The Wild One is a collection that debuted in 2022. That same year, Jean-Claude Biver joined NORQAIN, and the design and concept were co-developed with Biver. The Wild One's greatest feature is that, despite being a mechanical watch, it has passed a 5000g shock resistance test. This robustness is achieved through a sandwich case construction. The movement is enclosed in a titanium container, which is then sandwiched between a rubber shock absorber and a cage made of NORTEQ, a proprietary carbon composite material. This construction ensures both shock resistance and an incredible lightness for such robustness.

　The case and materials were developed by BIWI, the same manufacturer that produced the first Hublot Big Bang, which Biver helped to make a huge hit.

　This is the first time that Wild One has released a small-diameter model with a diameter of 39mm. With smaller diameters currently trending in the watch industry, launching a new model with a case size of under 40mm from a popular collection is a safe and reliable marketing move. Of course, this was likely in response to market needs. However, making the Wild One smaller is no easy task, as its case is unique, and the introduction of this new size reflects the company's aggressive stance.

"The reason we made the case smaller was because we wanted to take on a new challenge. Ultimately, it's a technological desire. The Wild One case is made up of a total of 25 components, so it's complex. Also, 13 pieces of tooling (connection devices, or adapters, that connect the machine tool's main spindle to the cutting tool) were required to cut the case. Generally, only one or two pieces of tooling are needed to manufacture a watch case. This time, just to make it 39mm, we redesigned all 13 pieces of tooling and made them new. Also, in order to achieve the same shock resistance as the 42mm model, we had to completely redesign the structure, which was a major technical hurdle. The titanium container that encases the movement, as well as the position and size of the shock absorber that fits into that container, are all new designs."

　The smaller diameter also contributes to a lighter watch. The adoption of NORTEQ technology has reduced the weight of the 42mm model, which was already extremely light for a mechanical watch at 78g, to 64g for the 39mm model (55g for the model with a short strap).

"What we're aiming for is the pinnacle of the ultimate mechanical sports watch. If it can withstand any shock and be used for any sport, the lighter it is, the better. We will continue to take on more and more challenges and push the boundaries of technology."

Partnerships with creators are important for taking on challenges

　Tobias Kaffer also emphasized that partnerships with creators are very important in order to take on the challenge.

　NORQAIN is a rare brand that discloses all of its suppliers. Users can see which suppliers are involved in which process, such as BIWI, which develops cases and materials, MRP, which assembles the cases and manufactures containers, and Sellita, which develops and manufactures movements. From what he said, I got the sense that NORQAIN's approach not only promises transparency to users, but also shows respect for its suppliers.

"We place great importance on transparency. We talk about our relationships (with suppliers) on the premise that we are open to users about where our products are manufactured. This is very different from other watch brands. Also, our headquarters (in Bienne) is close to our supplier factories, which is an advantage because we can completely share our passion. Of course, we share all information. For example, with a normal manufacturer and supplier, the relationship is something like, 'the manufacturer tells them the specifications of the product they want to make, the supplier tells them the price and then delivers the product.' But with us, we share every aspect of the manufacturing process, and our passion for our products."

　Not only are brands and suppliers physically close, but their business minds are also close.

“Like Norqain, our partner suppliers are independent companies. Many of the managers are from the same generation as my brother Ben, who is the CEO, and I. As part of the ‘next generation,’ we share the same goals and aspirations.”

Norqain is confident in its growth

　In today's luxury watch market, there are concerns about an economic downturn. Many watch brands are steering the market with conservative measures rather than taking on any challenges. However, Tobias Kaffer, while acknowledging that "there are tough external factors," spoke of his determination not to give up on challenges.

"Last year's sales increased by 40% compared to the previous year. As of the fourth quarter of 2025, we are on track to grow at a similar pace. There are certainly tough external factors in the current market, but the growing attention being paid to independent brands like ours is a tailwind. I feel that users are looking for unique products rather than mainstream brands, and for value that cannot be found anywhere else. In order to capitalize on this momentum and take on new challenges, we would like to continue creating innovative products. In addition, we have been conveying not only the watches themselves, but also the story and way of life behind NORQAIN. Of course, the product itself is important, but our buyers (of NORQAIN products) are, so to speak, our 'family,' and as a 'family' they share our spirit, so we are not concerned (about the current luxury watch market)."

　They are not considering reducing or increasing production based on market trends.

"We haven't set any short-term goals. Because we're an independent company, we're not under pressure from shareholders. However, we have set goals for our long-term strategy, in other words, what we want to challenge ourselves to do. We're already planning a model to be released in 2027. I can't tell you what it will be, though (laughs)."

An interview that makes you look forward to future developments

　We interviewed Tobias Kafer, Vice President of Norqain.

　Even amid concerns about a slowdown in the luxury watch market, he believes that "the wind is blowing in his favor," and continues to take on new challenges. His brand strategy, along with the products themselves, has created a unique character that no other company can match. He is able to maintain this originality because he has confidence in his own products and in his partners, the suppliers who make them.

　Norqain's approach will likely serve as a role model for the future watch industry, where the market is maturing and users are becoming more diverse. Users will want more unique options. As a leading independent brand, Norqain will likely continue to take on various challenges.