H. Moser & Cie. has announced the "Pop Collection," a vibrant collection of 18 watches across six series, truly incorporating the image of pop art. This collection is the result of carefully selected materials, the sense of finishing the dials with them, and the technical expertise. In other words, it's not just fun to look at; it's a new expression of luxury watches, combining sophisticated manufacturing processes with H. Moser & Cie.'s playful spirit.
Edited & Text by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
"Pop Collection" uses natural materials for the dial
As symbolized by the ideal gradation of the fumé dial, H. Moser & Cie. has long focused on the expression of its dials. At the same time, as evidenced by numerous concept models, the brand has also not forgotten to incorporate a unique sensibility into its watches. The "Pop Collection" is perhaps a clear expression of this cutting-edge creativity of H. Moser & Cie.
CEO Edouard Meylan, who visited Japan in May 2025 to present the new collection, revealed that "Andy Warhol's pop art works were one of the sources of inspiration." The collection of 18 models, available in six vibrant color combinations, is certainly full of pop sensibility, just as the names suggest.
However, there was another factor that had a major influence on the launch of this collection: the collaboration with the British watch brand Studio Underdog, which began in 2014. Until then, H. Moser & Cie.'s dials had mainly been expressed in a single color. However, being exposed to Studio Underdog's bold idea of combining two contrasting colors opened up new horizons in design expression.
Unlike the Studio Underdog collaboration model, which uses Grand Feu enamel for the dial, the Pop Collection features six types of gemstones and coral, including Burmese jade, turquoise, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase. To shape these natural materials into dials, the selected raw materials are first sliced to a thickness of 1-1.2mm. Light is passed through the thinly processed material to identify inclusions and imperfections, and the cutting position for the dial shape is carefully determined. Once shaped into the dial shape, the gemstones and coral are ground to a thickness of 0.6mm using a CNC milling machine. This requires high precision to ensure a uniform thickness while preserving the unique brilliance of each material.
Furthermore, because the gemstones and coral are made extremely thin, their texture shows through when they are attached to the brass base. Therefore, careful consideration has been given to enhancing the appeal of the natural stones, such as applying a special varnish to the back of the dial to hide the brass.
This small seconds model features Peruvian pink opal as its main setting, combined with Burmese jade at 6 o'clock. It features a highly efficient ratchet-type automatic movement, providing a power reserve of approximately three days. Automatic (Cal. HMC202). 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately three days. Stainless steel case (38mm diameter, 10.4mm thick). Limited to 28 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 5,676,000 yen (tax included).
The light and airy pattern, with turquoise stones sandwiched between vivid rings of coral, is eye-catching. At 6 o'clock, a flying tourbillon, which also functions as a small seconds hand at one rotation per minute, stands out even amidst the striking dial. Automatic winding (Cal. HMC 805). 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately three days. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 13.5mm thick). Limited to eight pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 14,696,000 yen (tax included).
The Pop collection, completed through a meticulous manufacturing process, not only boasts the vibrant color combination of gemstones and coral, but also seamlessly combines two types of natural materials, allowing viewers to enjoy the lustrous and smooth dials characteristic of luxury timepieces. However, for the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop, due to the structural reasons for the placement of the hammers and gongs, only one type of natural material is used for the dial, and the outer periphery is finished with lacquer. Even so, considerable trial and error was required to adjust the color of the lacquer in order to match the color tones of the gemstones and coral with the lacquer and create a color combination common to the series.
The vibrant color scheme is enjoyable to look at and is a truly pop design that appeals to many people. However, by creating this watch using premium materials such as gemstones and coral, it is both pop and "very rare," making it a truly H. Moser & Cie.-esque piece.
Made from lemon chrysoprase collected in South Africa, the outer periphery is painted a deep blue reminiscent of the hue of lapis lazuli. This unique piece, limited to one in the world, features a flying tourbillon and minute repeater. Manually wound (Cal. HMC 904). 35 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 90 hours. 18KRG case (40mm diameter, 13.5mm thick). Unique piece. Price: 56,881,000 yen (tax included).
