We're reviewing Hamilton's new Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Auto, a watch for 2025. Featuring a refreshingly colored dial, a substantial case, and a GMT movement with an independently moving hour hand, this diver's watch is perfect for the summer.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 24, 2025]
Hamilton releases new GMT divers
Hamilton is a well-known mid-range brand of the Swatch Group. Founded in the United States and with a history of supporting its development, the company is known for its unique and innovative designs that set it apart from other brands. The model they announced for 2025 is the Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Auto, which we will be reviewing today.
The Khaki collection, which has its roots in military watches supplied to the U.S. military, is subdivided into pilot watches (Khaki Aviation), field watches (Khaki Field), and diver watches (Khaki Navy). This Khaki Navy model is a tough piece with water resistance of 30 bar and a GMT function.
The Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Auto has a sophisticated design despite its military origins. We'd like to take a closer look at the actual watch to see how it looks, its functionality, and even how it feels to wear.
New for 2025: the "Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Auto." The warm silver dial is accented with a red GMT hand. Automatic (Cal. H-14). 25 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 13.9mm thick). Water resistant to 30 bar. Price: 198,000 yen (tax included).
Nostalgic cream dial
The dial color is officially described as silver, but it has a gentle, slightly creamy hue. The surface has a grained finish, giving it a matte texture. The color and finish are easy on the eyes, even under strong light such as outside during the day, and are elements that enhance the practicality of this sports watch for outdoor activities.
The indexes are a combination of dots and trapezoids for improved readability. The inside of the indexes is coated with light green luminous paint, creating a contrast with the cream-colored dial. The indexes are tall, allowing you to enjoy their three-dimensional effect by viewing the dial from an angle. A gray minute scale is placed around the outer edge of the dial, tightening the overall look.
The small window at 3 o'clock displays the date. The gap between the dial and the date disc is tightly closed, and the small window is surrounded by a diagonal cut, making it bright and easy to read. The brand logo at 12 o'clock and the black print at 6 o'clock that briefly lists the functions also give a simple and clean impression. There is no ink bleeding even when looking at the scratches. The hands are stacked in the following order from the dial side towards the crystal: GMT hand, hour hand, minute hand, and second hand. Due to the structure in which many hands are stacked in the center, there is a considerable distance between the GMT hand and the second hand, but it does not look silly.
Heavy and voluminous case
The first thing that strikes you when you hold this watch in your hands is its substantial weight. The case measures 43mm in diameter and 13.9mm thick, which is on the large side even according to the catalog, but perhaps because the case back is thin and the thickness is concentrated in the middle case, it feels quite solid.
The bezel, which is equipped with a unidirectional rotation prevention mechanism, is set with a black insert with a 24-hour display. The edge of the bezel is finely knurled to improve grip when turning. The middle case is unified with a full hairline finish, creating a solid design that emphasizes the tool-like feel. It is mainly composed of curved surfaces, and a crown guard is formed on the case side at 3 o'clock.
The screw-down crown features the Hamilton "H" mark on top. Its large diameter makes it easy to grip and unscrew. The thin case back contributes to a low center of gravity. The solid back with a hairline finish feels comfortable against the skin and won't stick to your skin even in sweaty seasons.
The stainless steel bracelet is a sporty three-link type. It is thick and sturdy, and both sides of the central link are slightly polished, giving it a rugged yet elegant look.
The buckle is a three-fold type that opens and closes with a push button. While large sports watches often have double locks, this model has a single lock. Opinions will differ on whether this is a disadvantage or an advantage as it makes it easier to put on and take off. Considering the price range, it is an excellent bracelet, but it is a bit of a shame that it does not have a fine adjustment mechanism. This model has a heavy head, so if you wear it loosely, you will feel the weight directly. It is necessary to adjust the wrist size to the exact size, but because the links are large, there is a limit to how much you can adjust by adding or removing them.
GMT movement with independently moving hour hand
There are two main types of GMT movements: those with an independently movable hour hand and those with an independently movable GMT hand. When using the hour hand to indicate local time and the GMT hand to indicate home time, the former has the advantage of allowing you to adjust the time difference without stopping the hands.
The Cal. H-14 movement used in this watch allows the hour hand to move independently. By unscrewing the crown and pulling it out one notch, the hour hand can be moved forward or backward in one-hour increments. To adjust the time in conjunction with the GMT and minute hands, rotate the crown in the two-notch position. To adjust the date, pull the crown out one notch and move the hour hand two full rotations per day. This takes a bit of effort, but in return, the date can be moved forward or backward in conjunction with the hour hand.
The Caliber H-14 is not only equipped with a GMT function, but also features a Nivachron balance spring that is resistant to magnetism, temperature changes, and shocks, and boasts a power reserve of approximately 80 hours, making it highly practical.
This watch is equipped with a rotating bezel with a 24-hour display, which allows you to display up to three time zones simultaneously. This is a very useful feature for users who travel between multiple countries. The operation sound is a bit loud and rattling. When I actually used it, I noticed that the bezel on this watch rotates only counterclockwise in 60 clicks. In other words, it's a direct re-use of a unidirectional rotating bezel for divers' watches. If you're adjusting the time zone, there's no need for unidirectional rotation, and there's no point in having 60 clicks. Still, it functions properly as a GMT watch, so it doesn't pose much of a practical problem, but personally, I'd prefer it to move in a way that matches its function.
A solid tool feel on the wrist
The Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Auto feels heavy in the hand. However, when actually wearing it, I was surprised at how much less strain it put on my arm than I had expected. This is likely due to the fact that I was able to adjust the bracelet to fit my wrist perfectly, and the thickness of the bracelet itself ensures a good weight balance with the head. While it may feel a little tight when wearing it at a desk, its solid feel creates a sense of security when wearing it for leisure activities, allowing you to be more active.
Visibility is also excellent. The indexes, a combination of dots and trapezoids, are coated with light green luminous paint, making a strong statement. The red tip of the second hand stands out against the cream dial, making it easy to tell at a glance that the watch is running. The same goes for the GMT hand. The 24-hour display on the bezel is also easy to read.
And don't forget that it's waterproof to 30 atmospheres, so it can withstand sudden downpours and can be worn without hesitation in any situation.
A refreshing diver's watch perfect for the coming season
With a large case that makes a statement on the wrist, a refreshingly colored dial, and excellent water resistance, this is the perfect diver's watch for enjoying the summer. The indices and hands are free of burrs or paint spills from the processing, and even on the grained dial, there is no visible bleeding of the printing. The case, with its fully hairlined surface, has sharp edges, and the bracelet is sturdy enough. And it's priced at just under 20 yen, including tax. This watch excels in multiple aspects, including design, exterior finish, movement, functionality, and price. There are probably not many current models that can compare to it.
However, this model is heavy, so wearing it all day requires a certain amount of energy, and the bezel, which uses a mechanism from a diver's watch, reveals the effort to reduce costs.If you don't consider these to be drawbacks, this is definitely a model that I can recommend.
