In recent years, "new materials" have become widespread in the watch market. The use of unconventional materials for the exterior and movement of watches has brought about major changes not only in terms of design, such as shape and color, but also in performance. Issue 112 of Chronos Japan featured an article on these "new materials" titled "New Materials That Have Changed Watches," and we've republished it here on webChronos. This time, we'll be looking at Chanel, Hublot, and Tudor, who have pioneered ceramics, a material that, while hard and lightweight, is difficult to process and has long been absent from wristwatches.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas), Yu Mitamura
Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
The precision of the finish and vivid color that has led to the widespread use of ceramics
Ceramics, with a Vickers hardness of over 1200, is a highly practical material that is scratch-resistant, hypoallergenic, and lightweight. This "new material," which had previously been rarely used in the watch industry, has the potential to create significant added value. However, its hardness makes it difficult to process, making it not an easy material to handle. We introduce the pioneers who discovered its potential and have successfully achieved it.
Pioneers who discovered the potential of ceramics
The J12 Paradox, released by Chanel in 2020, is a bold and innovative design that combines a white and black case made from ceramic, a hard and difficult-to-cut material, with a matching two-tone bezel and dial. It captured the hearts of many in the watch industry upon its release.
"This watch has a unique vertical asymmetrical structure, which was achieved through the sophisticated technique of cutting two ceramic cases of different sizes and joining them together," says Arnaud Chastain, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. It's a feat only possible for Chanel, which, despite not being a specialized watch manufacturer, has been producing its ceramic exteriors in-house since the launch of the J12. There's no doubt that this feat is only possible thanks to the unwavering aesthetic sense that has been passed down from Mademoiselle to Chastain.
Chanel was not the only brand to find added value in ceramics. Hublot, which has achieved great success since adopting the "Art of Fusion" brand concept, also approaches ceramics from a different perspective than Chanel: color. Because ceramics are manufactured using a high-temperature firing process, achieving vibrant colors is extremely difficult. Hublot, which is unrivaled in its use of exterior materials, has achieved this brilliant feat. The vibrant colors of ceramics, which have been achieved thanks to the constant development of new and different materials, including ceramics, at its headquarters in Nyon, Switzerland, are clearly evident when you look at the models introduced on this page.
It has traditionally been extremely difficult to achieve a vibrant red color in ceramics. This was made possible by Hublot's unique know-how. Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Red ceramic case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide. (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055
Finally, another interesting example is Tudor's Black Bay Ceramic. To make it a diver's watch with a water resistance of 200m, it combines a monoblock ceramic middle case with a steel case back. How does Tudor manage to fit a steel case back into a hard ceramic case and achieve such high water resistance? Tudor's advanced ceramic processing technology is also something that other companies cannot easily imitate.
It is precisely because it is difficult to handle that great added value can be achieved if you can master it. The use of ceramics clearly demonstrates the watchmaking capabilities of each company.
An ambitious piece with a case made of two-tone ceramics joined together. The interlocking is extremely precise. Arnaud Chastain, who was in charge of the design, wanted to express this duality in a luxury watch. Automatic winding. 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Highly resistant white ceramic case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. (Inquiries) Chanel (Customer Care) Tel. 0120-525-519
An ambitious piece that combines a nearly entirely ceramic exterior with a high-performance movement that meets Master Chronometer standards. Despite the ceramic middle case, it features an extremely rare screw-down caseback. Automatic (Cal. MT5602-1U). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Ceramic and stainless steel case (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 200m. (Inquiries) Rolex Japan/Tudor Tel. 0120-929-570
