In recent years, "new materials" have become widespread in the watch market. The use of unconventional materials for the exterior and movement of watches has brought about major changes not only in terms of design, such as shape and color, but also in performance. Issue 112 of Chronos Japan featured an article on these "new materials" titled "New Materials That Have Changed Watches," and we've republished it here on webChronos. This time, we'll introduce Hublot's unique research into sapphire crystal, a material that is difficult to cut due to its ultra-hardness, and its success as a "master of sapphire crystal."
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Hublot's unique research into sapphire cases with a variety of colors
Hublot, with its brand concept of "Art of Fusion," has introduced new and different materials not previously used in the watch industry, overwhelming other brands with the expressive power of materials and unique shapes. In addition to its specialty materials such as ceramics and carbon, Hublot has steadily accumulated unique technology in sapphire crystal, and has now achieved the realization of complex shapes and a wide range of colors.
Hublot's sapphire crystal cases come in a variety of colors
Sapphire crystal is the second hardest material after diamond, and is therefore extremely difficult to cut. This is why average watch manufacturers never attempt it. The more complex the watch's design, the greater the difficulty. This is because it requires a huge investment, starting with the introduction of specialized machine tools to cut sapphire crystal, and the low yield rate of the cutting process.
Based on the concept of "Art of Fusion" (the fusion of different materials and ideas), Hublot has actively adopted new and different materials for the watch industry, such as carbon and ceramics, to create unique designs, so it was only natural that they would turn to sapphire crystal as their next challenge. In 2016, they released the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, which featured sapphire crystal for the case and bezel, and the following year they released models with red and blue sapphire crystal, quickly establishing Hublot as the name of the watch industry when it comes to sapphire crystal.
But Hublot never stands still. As a next step, they replaced some parts that had been made of synthetic resin with a full sapphire exterior, while also further expanding the color variations. In 20, they released the Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM, the first watch in the industry to use SAXEM. In 22, they created the world's first purple sapphire by adding aluminum oxide and chromium to the sapphire creation process. The following year, in 23, they released the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM, which used a new color of SAXEM, and stunned everyone with its iconic yellow neon color.
SAXEM is an advanced material boasting ultra-high durability, and is also used in artificial satellites. It is an alloy of aluminum oxide, the basic component of sapphire, with rare earth elements and chromium added. Furthermore, Hublot will release the Big Bang Unico Green SAXEM in January 2024. Hublot not only promoted color diversification, but also spent approximately two years of research and development to create a uniform, homogeneous SAXEM color.
Hublot announced the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon in 2022, the world's first watch to feature purple sapphire. Viewed from the side of the case, it's clear to see that the bezel, caseband, and caseback are all made of sapphire crystal. This is the culmination of Hublot's highly advanced, proprietary technology, including precision machining and color development. Manually wound (Cal. HUB6020). 25 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 115 hours. Purple sapphire crystal case (case diameter 42mm, thickness 15.3mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide.
It's no exaggeration to say that Hublot is now a "master of sapphire crystal," and their unique research continues to this day. During a 2023 interview at their headquarters, Matthias Butte, Director of Manufacturing and Research and Development, gave us a tour of their in-house research facilities. To carve Hublot's large cases, it is necessary to grow huge sapphire crystals. Hublot is steadily conducting this research at its headquarters in Nyon, Switzerland.
It is precisely because Hublot constantly challenges itself with technology that its originality is unmatched.
