In recent years, "new materials" have become widespread in the watch market. The use of unconventional materials for the exterior and movement of watches has brought about major changes not only in terms of design, such as shape and color, but also in terms of performance. Issue 112 of Chronos Japan featured such "new materials" as "New Materials That Have Changed Watches," and this article has been reprinted on webChronos. To conclude this feature, our editor-in-chief, Masamasa Hirota, looks back on the overview of new materials that have changed the way watches are made over the past 20 years.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Hiroyuki Suzuki
Article published in the May 2024 issue of Kronos Japan
Changing materials changes the watch
We've covered new materials many times in this magazine. We're now publishing it because it has brought home to us the enormous impact that new materials have had. Take the silicon balance spring, for example. Its resistance to magnetism has given mechanical watches greater practicality than quartz watches. Over the past 20 years, various new materials have dramatically changed the way watches are made. We'd like to take one last look back at this bird's-eye view.
New materials that have dramatically changed the way watches are made
Compared to a generation ago, new materials are becoming less of a hot topic. It's true that compared to when carbon and ceramics first began to become popular, there are fewer manufacturers talking about them, fewer media outlets covering them, and fewer enthusiasts talking about them. However, this is probably because new materials and technologies are becoming commonplace, rather than because the development race has died down. Silicon, which was also featured in this special feature, is a different thing now than it was 20 years ago, but few people in the industry dare to talk about it.
Here's an anecdote that illustrates the widespread adoption of new materials. Giulio Papi, founder of the former Renaud & Papi, was considered by many in the watch industry to be a die-hard hater of new materials. I, too, am one of them. However, when I met him the other day, he said, "If the opportunity arises, it's okay to use new materials." This seems less to be a sign that he has become more open-minded, and more to do with the fact that new materials have become commonplace. Or perhaps even he, who was skeptical of the durability of new materials, has changed his mind after observing them for many years and has come to believe that they are trustworthy.
Each of the new materials mentioned here has its own pros and cons. There's no end to the pros and cons. A prime example is the silicon escapement and balance spring. While many, including this author, publicly declared its drawbacks, its advantages—its lack of magnetism and low inertia—ultimately made the niche mechanical watch practical enough to coexist with everyday life. Without silicon, mechanical watches might have become too dwarfed for the average person to accept. Omega's Master Chronometer, with its 15,000 gauss magnetic resistance, is one example of the new possibilities for mechanical watches created by silicon.
The same can be said for the new gold. The approach of changing the alloy material and changing its physical properties has brought the old material of gold back into the spotlight. The new gold is hard and resistant to fading, so you can wear it without worry even when taking it to a sports event. Hasn't the new gold opened up the genre of precious metal watches that can be worn casually?
The same can be said for titanium. This lightweight, corrosion-resistant material was originally intended for tool watches. However, the availability of high-quality finishes for grade 5 titanium has resulted in a significant improvement in the quality of tool and sports watches. This new titanium also opens up the world of luxury watches to those with metal allergies.
Ceramics, which were once used in tool watches, have now become essential for making watches look colorful. The same goes for sapphire. This material, which was once literally a "colorful" material, not only allows you to enjoy its color, but also serves as the perfect "frame" for appreciating precision-crafted movements. In other words, it can be said that new materials have dramatically changed the world of watches over the past 20 years, even if it is only in the niche world of mechanical watches.
Where there's light, there's also darkness. One of the drawbacks pointed out, both now and in the past, is the durability of new materials. Ceramics and sapphire are still vulnerable to strong impacts, and carbon fiber inevitably deteriorates when placed in harsh environments. And while silicon has become more durable, it's still not yet easy enough for the average watchmaker to handle. When it comes to long-term usability, existing stainless steel and precious metals are the clear winner, not new materials. However, as the benefits of new materials continue to grow, I believe we shouldn't dismiss them solely on the basis of durability. If that's the case, then perhaps we should go back to the 1970s, when replacing parts every time maintenance became the norm, and reexamine the state of watches. If that's the case, the widespread adoption of new materials seems like a consequence of the current watch industry's assumption of part replacement.
I, as the author, was once negative about new materials, but now I am rather positive about them. The reason is explained by Nakis Karapatis, vice president of Breguet: "Silicon may disappear in the future, but by that time it will have been replaced by a better material." We know that new materials have changed watches in a positive way. If that is the case, then as long as the watch industry exists, we can believe that there is a better future ahead. (Masamasa Hirota, this magazine)
