We'll be reviewing the brown dial model of Longines' new Conquest Heritage watch for 2025. While inheriting the design of the original model launched in 1954, this model features a modern size and a movement with the latest specifications, making it a unique piece with its brown dial.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 8, 2025]
Longines' long-selling model "Conquest Heritage" has been renewed
On May 5, 1954, the trademark "Conquest" was registered with the Swiss Intellectual Property Association. The application was submitted by Longines. At the time, the company had gained a reputation for its hand-wound movements, but was lagging behind its competitors in the development of automatic movements. The name Conquest was given to a high-end model equipped with the newly developed automatic movement, Cal. 19AS. Equipped with an automatic movement, as well as highly practical features such as water resistance and shock resistance, the Conquest continued to evolve with the times. Many models were produced, including those with metal bracelets and elegant quartz movements, as well as the popular "HydroConquest," which remains one of the company's flagship collections today.
Longines, known as a master of replica watches, released an iconic model based on the original Conquest in 2014. Faithfully recreating the original design, including its 35mm case size and distinctive wedge-shaped indices, this model was named the "Conquest Heritage" and was sold in limited quantities to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Conquest's birth. This was a time when so-called "big, thick" watches were the norm, but there were likely many fans seeking a classic watch. A regular model with slight modifications was later released, and it has since become recognized as a Longines staple.
In 2024, marking the 70th anniversary of the Conquest, the company announced the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, featuring a distinctive power reserve indicator, shining a spotlight on the Conquest Heritage, which had previously been a rather understated model. The recent trend toward dress watches likely contributed to this trend. In 2025, the company dramatically expanded the color variations of the 38mm and 40mm three-hand models. The new dials, presented in muted shades of green, blue, and brown, were enough to completely renew the Conquest Heritage's image.
However, in 2025, Longines released many other attractive new models, including the Conquest (not the Heritage), which has evolved into a modern sports watch, the Longines Spirit, and the Mini DolceVita. While this is a welcome development, it's easy to imagine that attention has been drawn away from the Conquest Heritage. This is why, in this article, we'd like to share its appeal with you using a sample of the new brown dial.
This 2025 model of the Conquest Heritage features a 38mm case with a brown dial and no date display. It's a reliable model, typical of Longines, a manufacturer accustomed to making practical watches. Automatic (Cal. L888). 21 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (38mm diameter, 10.8mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 452,100 yen (tax included).
A brown dial that combines elegance and individuality
The basic design of the dial is the same as that of the original Conquest and previous Conquest Heritage models. The large wedge-shaped indices, dauphine hands, and minute markers positioned slightly toward the center make it instantly recognizable. To modern sensibilities, this model's design may be considered somewhat dressy. However, considering that the Conquest was Longines' first automatic model with waterproof and shock-resistant construction, and that it later evolved into the HydroConquest, the original Conquest was actually a pioneer of all-around sports watches, and its somewhat bold indices appear to have been designed with an emphasis on legibility.
The brown dial newly added to the Conquest Heritage has a deep color with a hint of red. The sunray finish adds a touch of expression, and combined with the pink gold-colored indexes and hands, it gives off an elegant impression. Personally, I feel that this watch is even more appealing in dimly lit spaces like restaurants and bars than outdoors during the day. The center of the hour and minute hands and the edges of the indexes are discreetly coated with luminous paint, ensuring visibility in the dark. While the hour and minute hands appear flat, they have a ridge running down the center, and are designed to catch light on both sides.
Although it may not be obvious at first glance, the dial's structure is quite complex. The minute markers are surrounded by a circular finish that traces the 12 indexes, and the outer edge of that is curved like a bombe. The crystal is also curved in a similar way. In the center, only the words "Automatic" and "Conquest" are placed, along with a three-dimensional Longines logo, giving it a clean look and a generous amount of white space.
A simple round case with a powerful presence
The classic round case, measuring 38mm in diameter, is standard for modern men's watches, or even slightly smaller. At just 10.8mm thick, it's relatively thin for a watch equipped with a mechanical automatic movement based on a general-purpose watch. The bezel and case back are thin, and as a result, the bulk is concentrated in the middle case, giving the watch a comfortable weight and solid feel in the hand.
Another charming feature are the short, protruding, thick lugs. The top of the lugs is gently curved, culminating in slightly rounded tips. The short lugs reduce the overall length of the watch, making it easier to wear for those with smaller wrists. In fact, this model's overall length of 45.6mm is shorter than other models with the same case diameter. The lugs are made up of multiple edges, but they don't feel very sharp. This isn't meant in a negative way, but rather as an intentional rounding to create a vintage feel. It's a treatment that gives the watch a softer appearance.
The diameter of the crown is approximately 6mm, making it easy to grip. The Longines logo is engraved on the top.
The case back is a 12-sided screw-down case. Although it is not see-through, it features an 18K gold medallion set in the center. This is the same design as the original stainless steel case model, featuring a fish emerging from the water. The translucent green is enamel, just like the original.
This watch is equipped with the Caliber L888, a mechanical automatic movement developed exclusively for Longines. It is based on ETA's Caliber 2892-A2, a thin movement. By using a silicon balance spring, this high-spec movement is resistant to magnetism and temperature changes. It also boasts a reassuring power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
The strap is made of alligator leather and comes in a brown color that matches the dial. The pin buckle featuring the brand logo emphasizes the classic look.
A practical dress watch for everyday wear
The fit of this watch is stress-free and suitable for everyday use. The 38mm diameter case with short lugs does not overly stand out on the wrist, and its thinness means that it places less strain on the wrist even when worn for long periods of time. The alligator leather strap felt a little stiff, perhaps because it was new, but it will likely become more flexible after about a month of daily wear.
There are no issues with visibility either. The pink gold color of the hands and indexes and the brown dial are similar in color, so the contrast may not seem clear, but in reality, the wide, faceted indexes sparkle in the light, making it easy to read the time.
The approximately 72-hour power reserve makes it easy to rotate with multiple watches, and the high magnetic resistance provided by the silicon balance spring means it can be used safely even in today's world where electronic devices such as computers and smartphones are readily available. Furthermore, its 5 bar water resistance means it won't be an inconvenience for everyday use, such as washing your hands or getting caught in light rain. This watch combines the specs required of a practical watch with an iconic design, making it the ideal everyday watch.
I'd like to add one personal opinion: the warm brown dial reviewed here really shines in the fall and winter seasons. To my taste, it's difficult to pull off in the summertime. For that reason, if you're looking for greater versatility, you might want to consider a black, silver, or blue dial.
Conquest celebrates its 70th anniversary and shows even more presence
Despite its instantly recognizable iconic design, the Conquest Heritage has not received much attention until now. The addition of color dials is sure to change that trend. With the recent trend of returning to dress watches, we hope the Conquest Heritage's presence will gradually increase.
