Grand Seiko offers a wide range of models, including different drive systems, dials, and case designs. Here we introduce five recommended models for men who are purchasing their first Grand Seiko.
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 8, 2025]
From Grand Seiko's lineup of masterpieces, we've carefully selected the top 5 watches you'll want to get your hands on first!
Grand Seiko is a leading Japanese luxury watch brand. It was founded in 1960, driven by a determination to create the world's finest wristwatches. Grand Seiko has achieved many accomplishments, including participating in and winning prizes at the Swiss Observatory Competition, and in the process defined its own unique precision standards and design grammar, contributing to the advancement of Japanese watchmaking technology and culture.
Today, it has grown into a global brand that is recognized worldwide for its three drive systems - mechanical, quartz, and the unique Spring Drive - as well as its diverse dials inspired by Japanese scenery.
All Grand Seiko watches offer high levels of practicality, including excellent precision, robustness, and legibility. You'll be satisfied with any model you choose. However, with a wide lineup ranging from hand-wound dress watches to models designed for a wide range of occasions, to sports models such as diver's watches, it can be difficult to decide which one to buy. This time, we'll introduce five Grand Seiko models with metal bracelets that are relatively affordable and can be worn in any season.
Grand Seiko "Sports Collection" Ref.SBGN027
This GMT model from the Sports Collection features a cool monochrome color scheme. Its fixed bezel, engraved with a 24-hour display, is paired with a white GMT hand, allowing it to display a second time zone. The flange is divided into two colors, white and black, making it easy to distinguish between day and night at a glance.
The relatively small 39mm case and three-link bracelet are made of stainless steel. The brushed finish gives it a sporty look. The screw-down crown is located at 4 o'clock to prevent interference with the wrist, allowing for stress-free wear even in active situations. It is water resistant to 20 bar, so you can wear it with confidence even in bad weather.
The movement is a highly accurate quartz movement, Cal. 9F86, with an annual accuracy of ±10 seconds. It also features a time zone adjustment function that allows the hour hand to move independently without stopping the movement of the hands, making it convenient to use when traveling abroad.
A simple yet tough GMT watch. Its informal design makes it easy to wear both on and off the job. Quartz movement (Cal. 9F86). Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 12.3mm thick). Water resistant to 20 bar. Price: 473,000 yen (tax included).
Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection" Ref.SBGW299
The 1967 "44GS" established the unique design grammar of the Seiko Style. The "SBGW299," part of the Elegance Collection, is a modern reconstruction of that design. Aiming for a brilliantly shining watch, the exterior reflects the unique Japanese aesthetic sense of perceiving countless gradations of light and shadow, incorporating many mirrored surfaces that have been smoothly finished using Zaratsu polishing. The watch's appeal lies in its timeless and iconic design, including its powerful lugs and faceted hands and indexes. This model features a dark blue dial with radial embossing, creating a three-dimensional effect with fan-like shadows.
The case is extremely compact at 36.5mm in diameter, making it easy to wear for people of all ages and genders, making it an elegant dress watch or even a great watch to share with your partner.
The Cal. 9S64 movement is a hand-wound mechanical movement. Winding the mainspring by hand will make you grow fonder with each passing day. With a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, you can take it off on Friday night and have it continue running until Monday morning without having to wind it over the weekend.
This compact Grand Seiko features a mechanical hand-wound movement. It follows the design of the legendary "44GS," which established the Seiko style. Hand-wound (Cal. 9S64). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (36.5mm diameter, 11.6mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 770,000 yen (tax included).
Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection" Ref.SBGA211
Grand Seiko has expressed scenes of nature unique to Japan through numerous embossed dials. One particularly popular and long-selling feature is the "Snow White Pattern" dial used on Spring Drive and Quartz models. In the snow-covered Hotaka mountain range surrounding the Shinshu Toki no Takumi Kobo in Nagano Prefecture, where these models are manufactured, delicate wind patterns are created when the snow blows on the snow surface. The Snow White Pattern captures this cool serenity.
The dial is fully functional, with a date display at 3 o'clock and a power reserve indicator at 7:30. The smooth movement of the second hand, characteristic of Spring Drive, is made of tempered blued steel, adding an accent to the pure white dial.
The case and bracelet are crafted from bright titanium, which is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, hard, and boasts a lustrous white aesthetic. Inside is the automatic Spring Drive movement, Cal. 9R65, boasting a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and the high precision of a quartz movement.
This model features a snow-white pattern dial reminiscent of the tranquil surface of snow. Its bright titanium exterior and Spring Drive movement are packed with Grand Seiko's signature charm. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R65). 30 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (41mm diameter, 12.5mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 902,000 yen (tax included).
Grand Seiko "Sports Collection" Ref.SBGA461
This diver's watch features a stainless steel case. The automatic Spring Drive movement, due to its construction, is resistant to vibrations and magnetism, making it a perfect match for the toughness of diver's watches.
The dial is easy to read thanks to the indexes, which are a combination of triangles, bars, and dots. The luminous paint on the indexes and hands ensures excellent visibility even in dark places, such as underwater.
The bezel, which is equipped with a unidirectional rotating mechanism, has a scale with up to 60 graduations, allowing the elapsed time of a dive to be measured. The bezel is designed so that it can be completely disassembled for after-sales service.
The bracelet features an adjuster mechanism that allows for extension of the wrist when wearing a diving suit, and a double-locking buckle. The screw-down case back is engraved with Grand Seiko's iconic lion emblem, allowing you to enjoy its traditional details.
This diver's watch is equipped with a Spring Drive movement. It's not only highly practical, but also boasts a high level of aesthetic appeal, thanks to its Zaratsu polishing finish. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R65). 30 jewels. Approximately 72 hours of power reserve. Stainless steel case (44.2mm diameter, 14mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: ¥891,000 (tax included).
Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection" Ref.SBGW305
A classic dress watch with a round case and a silver dial with no date display. While its appearance is simple, the details are imbued with the practicality and aesthetics that are characteristic of Grand Seiko.
The dial curves outwards, featuring faceted dauphine-style hour and minute hands and bar indexes for improved legibility. The tips of the minute and second hands are bent to match the dial, shortening the distance to the minute scale and improving legibility. The box-shaped sapphire crystal, which harmonizes with the curve of the dial, reflects light softly, just like the plastic crystal of a vintage watch. The case also incorporates many classic design elements, such as a thin bezel and chamfered lugs.
The bracelet is a so-called "rice bracelet" made up of tiny links each as small as a grain of rice, providing a supple feel when worn.
The movement is a mechanical hand-wound Cal. 9S64. The see-through back allows you to see the shining striped bridge and the beating balance.
A dressy Grand Seiko with a mechanical hand-wound movement. Its classic design, including a no-date silver dial and rice bracelet, is appealing. Hand-wound (Cal. 9S64). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Approximately 72-hour power reserve. Stainless steel case (37.3mm diameter, 11.7mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 781,000 yen (tax included).
