Watch writer Shinichi Sato recommends his first dress watch. His top pick is a Japanese-made watch!

This time, we'll introduce five recommended models for those choosing a dress watch for the first time. These days, as business style becomes more casual, the occasions when dress watches are needed may be decreasing. So, rather than choosing a dress watch out of necessity, why not choose one that you want to incorporate into your style? We'll introduce dress watches with simple designs and slim construction that you'll want to coordinate with a well-tailored suit.

Introducing 5 recommended models and 10 variations for your first dress watch

　It is difficult to clearly define a "dress watch" in modern times, so we attempted to rethink it by combining several elements in the January 2024 issue of Chronos Japan (reprinted article:http://www.webchronos.net/features/138473/) has been conducted. Based on the contents of that report, I have picked out three elements that I personally consider to be "elements that a first dress watch should have" and "elements that many models labeled as dress watches have" - ​​a thin construction, a simple dial design, and a simple case design that does not protrude much - and have selected five models that fit these criteria.

　Speaking only of my personal preference, I would like to assert that "Your first dress watch should have a basic white or silver dial model," but at the same time, I also believe that the elegance created by the styling of a dress watch should be incorporated into a wide range of occasions, including casual wear. Therefore, for each of the selected models, I would like to suggest two variations: one with a white or silver dial, and one with a colorful dial that can match a wide range of occasions and outfits.

The "Elegance Collection" is compact yet retains the essence of Grand Seiko.

　Our selection from Grand Seiko, Japan's proud luxury watch brand, is the "Elegance Collection" Ref. SBGX347. In recent years, Grand Seiko has expanded its lineup of models with case diameters of 40mm or less compared to a few years ago. This model is one of them, and with a case diameter of 34mm, it is quite compact by modern standards. It is also relatively thin, measuring just 10.7mm thick.

　This model features a design that reflects the Seiko style, with a round case, edgy lugs, sharp applied indexes, and multifaceted diamond-cut hands, all realized through Grand Seiko's outstanding finishing techniques, including Zaratsu polishing. While its compact design evokes the image of a vintage watch, it has a strong presence and feels modern, likely due to the edgy design and high-quality finish.

　Another color we picked is the Ref. SBGX349, which has a striking deep blue. Blue is Grand Seiko's brand color, and its appeal lies in its combination of glamour and chic. The leather strap, chosen to match the dial color, is also modern. This color coordination is sure to make a statement not only with a suit, but also with casual attire.

Longines Master Collection: Engraved indexes are attractive

　The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.843.4.73.2 is an attractive dress watch that combines a classic design with modern technology to create a high-quality yet affordable watch. The standout feature of this model is the Arabic numerals engraved into the dial. While this type of engraving is a traditional technique that has traditionally been done by hand by artisans, this model has been successfully mass-produced using a micro-machining machine. The resulting finish, with smooth, sharp edges and a deep finish, is truly impressive.

　The watch features a small seconds display with a railway track at 6 o'clock, and the blue leaf-shaped hands create a classic impression. Looking at this styling, one might be tempted to think that this is a reissue of a specific model, but it is actually a new design created by referencing elements of several models in the Longines archives. Looking at it from that perspective, the dot-engraved, conical faceplate, the case shape with smoothly connected curves, and the rounded bezel give it a slightly modern feel. In addition, the approach of shortened lugs to improve wearing comfort is based on a design concept that has been widely adopted in recent years.

　The best way to appreciate the charm of this watch is to touch it in person. When you look at the remarkable index engravings from an angle, you'll see that they have a dynamic, three-dimensional feel, as if carved by a craftsman with a chisel, and are simple yet expressive. Aside from silver, the salmon-colored dial is also worth a look. Salmon is a color often seen in vintage watches, and has been gaining popularity in recent years. If I were to think of coordinating it with something other than a suit, this is an attractive dial that would make me want to pair it with a thick, brown tweed jacket.

OMEGA's De Ville Prestige dress watch, symbolizing the city

　Next up is the Omega De Ville Prestige. De Ville means town or city in French, and the lineup includes many elegant models that match urban attire.

　Depending on the case size, the dial of the De Ville Prestige features a bombé dial that bulges out from the edge toward the center, a design seen in vintage watches. Combined with the curved case and leaf hands, this creates a soft impression for the entire watch, which is one of the charms of this watch.

　The automatic Cal. 8800 movement is a Master Chronometer certified movement by METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology). Typical requirements for this certification include maintaining accuracy even when exposed to a 15,000 gauss magnetic field, and ensuring that accuracy varies little depending on the remaining power reserve. Omega's commitment to providing the highest level of practicality even in an elegant dress watch is truly Omega-like, and this could be another reason to choose this watch.

　The silver dial model featured here has a darker tone than typical silver, creating a chic and subdued finish. Another color we've picked out is the navy dial model. This color is characterized by random vertical stripes, which, combined with the color, create a denim-like texture. The subdued color makes it suitable for formal occasions, while the texture also makes it suitable for casual wear like an oxford shirt and jeans. It's also worth noting that leather strap combinations that match the dial color are also available.

IWC "Portofino" named after a seaside resort

　While the De Ville is a city watch, let's next choose a dress watch associated with a resort destination. The one we'll be looking at is the IWC Portofino. While IWC is known for its rugged and simple tool watches, the Portofino has been a key part of their dress watch lineup since the 1980s. The collection's name is taken from Portofino, a port town in northern Italy known as a resort destination for its scenic beauty.

　The Portofino originated as a round case with a pocket watch movement that was then fitted with lugs to create a wristwatch, and the round case remains the design code to this day. Another distinctive feature is the Roman numerals that are reminiscent of classic pocket watches. Another design code is the use of leaf-shaped hour and minute hands with large bulges and sharp tips, creating a soft and gentle impression while also providing excellent legibility.

　The white dial model featured here features blue hour, minute, and second hands and indices. While blue hands have historically been a common design choice, blue indices are somewhat unusual, adding a refreshing touch to this watch reminiscent of a seaside resort. The leather strap that comes with it is also navy blue, creating a perfect color coordination.

　Another model we'll be looking at is the navy dial model. The subdued navy dial has a sunray finish, which adds texture to the way light reflects off it. Gold-colored hands and indexes are also used here, creating an appealing contrast between the navy and gold, reminiscent of the gold buttons on a navy blazer.

My top recommendation for an ultra-thin dress watch: Citizen Eco-Drive One

　The last watch we'll pick is Citizen's Eco-Drive One. This is my personal favorite. Its defining feature is its extremely thin proportions. The finished watch is just 4.5mm thick, and the case is equipped with a light-powered quartz movement.

　The Eco-Drive One comes in several designs, but the one we would like to highlight is a model reminiscent of a classic, traditional dress watch. The dial design features central hour and minute hands and a small second hand at 6 o'clock, and the case is made of pink gold Duratect Pink, with a white dial made from Tosa washi paper.

　When pursuing thinness, the space between the dial and the crystal also becomes narrower, which tends to reduce the three-dimensional effect on the dial. In contrast, this model uses a 1mm thick movement, reducing the volume occupied by the movement and securing space on the dial side. This makes it possible to place three-dimensional indexes and sub-dial frames.

　The Tosa washi paper used has a soft texture that adds character to the dial. It also matches the Duratect pink color of the exterior, creating a vibrant and bright impression.

　The other option besides white is the black dial model. The case is finished with Duratect Platinum, giving it a shining white finish, and is paired with a glossy black dial to create a contrast. In contrast to the washi dial model, the design is sleek and cool, with a touch of sportiness.

　This watch utilizes Citizen's expertise in quartz movement and photovoltaic technology, as well as a dial made from washi paper, to achieve an extremely thin yet attractive design. The combination of these features with the elegance of the thinness of a traditional dress watch makes for an appealing design. If you're interested in this watch, we encourage you to try it on in store.