A look at the LVMH Group's customer service center, where they take watch maintenance seriously

2025.08.12

The LVMH Group is one of the world's leading luxury groups, owning brands such as Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith. The group has recently begun to focus on watch maintenance. This is evidenced by the customer service center at LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan, their headquarters in Japan. The facilities and staff capable of manufacturing watches are simply impressive.

A look at the LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan customer service center. With a staff of 120 people, including watchmakers and back office staff, it is one of the largest service centers in Japan. In addition to the abundant parts supply that only a manufacturer-affiliated service center can offer, the facility is comparable to that of a watch manufacturer, and the comprehensive training system and open atmosphere have further raised the bar on the service system. While commonplace among Swiss watchmakers, inviting staff members' families to tour the workplace is extremely rare in Japan.
Masahiro Okamura: Photographer
Photographs by Masahiro Okamura (CROSSOVER)
Masamasa Hirota (Kronos Japan): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 12, 2025]


LVMH Group's customer service has evolved significantly

 The LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Customer Service Center in Toyocho, Tokyo, is positioned as a role model for after-sales service centers around the world. This is true for other companies (groups) as well, but the LVMH Group has made it clear that Japan is the global standard. Currently, maintenance is performed here on watches from LVMH Group companies such as Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer, Zenith, Chaumet, and Dior. In addition, the center repairs and engraves jewelry from Bulgari, Chaumet, and Fred.

 The service center's key features are its fully equipped watchmaking facilities and its highly skilled personnel. Japanese watchmakers and their repair techniques are highly regarded worldwide, which is why many companies (groups) want to see Japanese service centers as global role models. The center also sought to further raise its overall standards by overhauling its organization. The impetus for this change came when Shigeru Hayashi was appointed Customer Service Director. Having led Breitling's maintenance department for many years, he is one of the key figures in establishing the reputation of Breitling as synonymous with excellent maintenance. Since assuming the role of head of the LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Service Center, he has worked with his superior, COO Julie Bourgeois, and the on-site staff to transform the service center.

 There are too many changes to list, but there are two major ones. The first is that watchmakers, who were previously divided among manufacturers, are now free to move around freely, which has improved their skills and significantly shortened maintenance periods. Also, at the request of TAG Heuer's headquarters in the United States, the process of matching the case and movement (called casing) has been separated. This separation has reduced the burden on staff involved in repairing movements and exteriors. These small improvements have led to a better environment for staff as well as customers. In fact, one staff member told me, "The current organization allows us to say what we want."

Two key figures in the establishment of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Watchmaking Academy. (Left) Shigeru Hayashi, Customer Service Director at LVMH Watches & Jewelry Japan Co., Ltd. (Right) Julie Bourgeois, COO of the company. "It's important to pass on dreams to the younger generation," says Hayashi. "We believe in training technicians over a long period of time," says Bourgeois. The relationship of trust between the two not only led to the establishment of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Watchmaking Academy, but also greatly evolved the way LVMH Watches & Jewelry Japan Service Centers operate.


LVMH Service Center with high-level personnel and facilities

 LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan's service center boasts an extremely high level of quality. However, the maintenance process itself is exactly the same as that of other companies. The watch they receive is disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled. Any damaged parts are also repaired or replaced. However, this service center differs significantly in that it also handles jewelry. Incidentally, the standards required for exterior finishes of watches today are far higher than they were 10 years ago. This is especially true in the Japanese market, where consumer demands are strict. However, the standards required for jewelry finishing are even higher than those for watches. In other words, LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan's service center, which also regularly performs maintenance on jewelry, is even higher. Furthermore, by providing maintenance on brands like Bulgari, which has extremely complex designs, and Hublot, which favors new materials, the standards have been raised even further.

The level of seriousness revealed through on-site interviews

 When a watch is received, it is disassembled into its exterior and movement, and the exterior parts are first sent for cleaning. What's interesting is that the cleaning solvents are strictly separated according to the condition of the watch. By attaching labels according to the treatment to be performed, human error is prevented and the process can be carried out quickly. What stands out about LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan's service center is not only its thorough organization but also the extra effort to make work easier. This is perhaps the know-how that can only be found at a large service center that handles a large number of items.

Cleaning process. Disassembled parts are washed with the appropriate solvent depending on their condition. Securing the parts to prevent damage is also a skill unique to this service center. As a role model for service centers around the world, the center is well-equipped with ample facilities. There are an astonishing 10 cleaning machines alone.

This tag is key to cleaning. As the photo shows, there are various types available depending on the condition and cleaning procedure. Generally, it is very rare to take this extra step when cleaning parts. This is because cleaning is not given much importance, and even if it is, it is usually done by the same person. However, at this service center, in order to achieve thorough cleaning, they try to eliminate personal influence as much as possible from the work. The accumulation of these considerations greatly affects the final finish.

Another area of ​​expertise is fasteners. Color-coded fasteners are used in place of tags to prevent parts that are washed with different cleaning solutions from mixing together. Small parts are also carefully washed by placing them in a net.

 After careful cleaning, the exterior parts are sent for polishing. Most of the technicians are jewelry school graduates. Even for ordinary watches, they use a whopping four different types of buffs to remove minor scratches. As you'd expect from a service center run by a large group, the equipment for this process is quite extensive. The first thing that caught my eye was the latest laser welding machine. This machine uses the same material to fill dents in the exterior. While this is usually done on exteriors made of precious metals, "we also fill holes in stainless steel," according to the technician. This means that even a Bulgari Bulgari watch with a damaged bezel can be restored to like-new condition. This service center is also unique in its use of belt sanders (cloth emery boards) typically found only in case factories. I never expected to see the same finishing machinery I'd seen at Panerai and other manufacturers in a Japanese repair workshop.

The exterior finishing department has eight staff members who work on polishing alone, and they refinish the exteriors of brands like Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith. What surprised me here was the protective tape that is applied to prevent unnecessary polishing. This is essential for exterior polishing, but here it is pre-sorted into dozens of different widths, eliminating the need to cut the tape.

The buffing process polishes the surface of the case. Four different types of buffs are used to restore the case to the same condition as new. Incidentally, the craftsmen who finish the exterior are generally graduates of jewelry schools. It's no wonder they can finish the precious metal exterior set with diamonds without distortion. In addition, the re-plating of white gold cases is also handled entirely in-house.

These are just a few of the tools used to polish precious metal cases. Unlike stainless steel cases, finishing precious metal cases is a matter of expertise. This service center, which also handles jewelry from brands such as Bulgari, Chaumet, and Fred, naturally excels in finishing precious metal cases.

A laser welding machine is installed in the service center. This allows for welding of dents in the bezel as well as broken parts. While this is often seen with manufacturers that use precious metal cases, the service center also performs welding on stainless steel cases.

This is the jig used to secure the exterior parts. There are a large number of them, reflecting the number of models. However, the eight staff members are able to apply the appropriate finish, taking into account the differences in material and shape. As this photo shows, the LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan service center is extremely well-organized.

The exterior parts are being assembled. The parts are disassembled, refinished and then reassembled from scratch. This is adding waterproof gaskets to the back cover. By separating the exterior assembly, maintenance intervals have been significantly shortened. Incidentally, this service center requires large-scale facilities and is home to an astounding 18 waterproof testing machines.

 They also have a comprehensive movement repair system. Hublot can perform maintenance in Japan except for high-end models and those with sapphire cases, and they also have a system in place where two people can assemble TAG Heuer tourbillons. While repairs must be carried out at the Swiss headquarters for a few years after release, other models can generally be maintained in Japan.

This service center also offers tourbillon maintenance. This is the process of assembling a Tag Heuer Caliber TH20-09. After servicing the movement, the barrel pinion is added and the hands are stacked. Of course, as this is an official manufacturer maintenance, any parts that need improvement are replaced with improved versions.


LVMH Watches & Jewelry Watchmaking Academy

 In one corner of this service center is the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Watchmaking Academy, which opened in April this year. As reported by webChronos (Reference:http://www.webchronos.net/features/137724/The academy hires future watchmaker candidates as employees and trains them to become watchmakers through two years of training. Originally a program planned by TAG Heuer, it has expanded in scale and further evolved into an initiative for the entire LVMH group. Two new recruits joined the first class in 2025. Both graduated from technical high schools, and Hayashi says their skills are extremely high to begin with.

 Hayashi says, "Originally, the training room allocated for the academy space was in a different location. However, when the after-sales service director from TAG Heuer's headquarters visited Japan, he suggested that a corner with better access (to the service center) would be better, as it would let in natural light, so we quickly secured a space by the window." As a result of being next to the service center, technicians began to drop in and have lunch with the new recruits.

 COO Bourgeois states, "In Switzerland, you learn how to make things, but at this academy, you learn how to repair them." As a result, as the curriculum progresses, the two new recruits will be tasked with troubleshooting and overhauling watches. Aiming to balance practical and theoretical learning, the academy not only provides classroom instruction, but also actively encourages students to get hands-on with watches. At the time of our interview, they were cutting the balance spring and adjusting the balance's frequency.

The Watchmaking Academy space is set up in a corner of the service center. The two inaugural students graduated from technical high schools. "To be honest, they have much more skills than when we were younger," says Hayashi. Because there are only two of them, the curriculum is completely custom-made. Their learning progress is checked with tests every two months.

At the time of the interview, they were adjusting the frequency of an ETA6497. They were adjusting the balance spring to 18,000 vibrations per hour. The trainer said, "In reality, we don't use it that much (laughs)." The two, both of whom are technical high school graduates, handled the balance spring with surprising dexterity. Incidentally, the tweezers they used were also sharpened by them.


A glimpse of LVMH's big growth at the maintenance site

 Watch maintenance is becoming increasingly important. LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan's service center, with facilities and a full staff that rival even the manufacturers', demonstrates the group's commitment to its watches. And if we follow the established watch industry wisdom that watchmakers who don't skimp on maintenance will thrive, then it's no wonder that the LVMH Group's companies are set to make great strides in the future. The true capabilities of a watchmaker are readily apparent when you take a look at the repair shop.

 By the way, the company is also looking for engineers with practical experience. If you are interested, please contact the following number.



Contact info: LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Co., Ltd.
Personnel Manager, Furudo
yumiko.furuto@jp.lvmhwj.com


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