Carole Cazapi, head of development at TAG Heuer, is known for her attention to the glamorous watches, but she has been working to improve the quality of the watches themselves.
Photograph by Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Our design philosophy is the "new normal" of quality, durability, and performance.
Born in France in 1969. After graduating from the La Chaux-de-Fonds Watchmaking School, he joined Conseil-de-Fonds in 90. From 92 he joined Renaud & Papy (then). He then became head of design for the Richemont Group, which includes Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. In 2020 he moved to TAG Heuer. In 21 he won the Gaia Prize. He is currently one of the designers I most respect.
"We've extended the warranty on our watches to five years. To achieve this, we had to go three more years without service. We're doing it for our customers. We've done simulations and improved durability, reliability and performance. But it takes time."
Although he wouldn't give specific figures, he said that the defect rate for one quartz watch had been reduced to one-tenth of its original value. "It's a huge improvement." It's no wonder that retailers have come to prefer carrying TAG Heuer watches.
"When I joined TAG Heuer five years ago, I came up with a new strategy: the 'new normal' of quality. It's about durability, quality, and performance. I've been incorporating this strategy into movement development."
One of these is the five-year warranty. Currently, TAG Heuer uses a variety of ébauches, not just its own, but also its own production, and the standard for these is still the "new normal." A good example is the new "TAG Heuer Formula 1," released this year. This watch is equipped with a light-powered quartz movement developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret.
This new model could be said to symbolize the "new normal." The automatic movement, developed in collaboration with AMT, is highly accurate and has a long power reserve. It also features a case with short lugs for a comfortable fit and a bracelet that can be easily disassembled. The price is exceptionally strategic. Automatic (Cal. TH31-02). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 12.57mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. 638,000 yen (tax included).
"We are certainly conscious of the environment. However, what's important is extending the maintenance period. If it were battery-powered, we wouldn't be able to achieve a five-year warranty. If it were photovoltaic power generation, the secondary battery would last for about 15 years."
Indeed, even light-powered watches, which may seem abrupt, make sense when viewed from the perspective of the "new normal." "This is also the 'new normal'!" she continued, explaining, "La Joux-Perret's engineers used to work on quartz watches at ETA. And the company is a subsidiary of Citizen. That's why the level of perfection is so high. What's important is not just to make the movement, but to make it according to a strategy."
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date is a watch that embodies the "new normal." It features a movement jointly developed with AMT, a subsidiary of Sellita. With a long power reserve of approximately 80 hours and COSC-level accuracy, it's a completely different beast from previous Carreras.
Another selling point is the "easily adjustable bracelet." Considering the price, this is all the more in line with Tag Heuer's vision of the "new normal."
"It's important to have a good strategy, but it's also important to choose good partners."
