We'll be reviewing the Japan-exclusive model of Edox's diver's watch, the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic. Divers' watches are a popular genre of watch, with many manufacturers competing fiercely, leaving users with a vast array of options. Some models feature unique designs and ultra-specs that would never be used on land. This model, on the other hand, is packed with the "classic" elements of a diver's watch. We'll be reviewing this watch both by the sea and in town, allowing you to appreciate the beauty of its classic status.
Photographs & Text by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 29, 2025]
Edox's "classic" diver's watch, the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic
While the term "wristwatch" encompasses a wide variety of functions and designs, diver's watches are extremely popular. Each manufacturer is focusing on this category, resulting in a wide variety of models available on the market. For example, some offer ultra-specialty features designed for deep-sea use, while others feature luxurious finishes, decorations, or stylish designs that stand out in urban settings. Edox, which calls itself "THE WATER CHAMPION," also offers a wide selection of diver's watches. The Neptunian Automatic, with its 1000m water resistance, and the Chrono Offshore 1 with its chronograph function are diver's watches that make a strong impact in terms of specifications and design. On the other hand, the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic features relatively "classic" elements. While not a particularly unique and impactful watch, this timepiece is packed with the merits of its classic design. I used it both at sea and in the city, and I'd like to share its details and how it feels to wear with readers.
Automatic movement (Cal. 808/La Joux-Perre G100). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 12.3mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 308,000 yen (tax included).
Enjoy the "classic" style
"Classic" means "a standard product that sells regardless of trends or seasons," and diver's watches are one such standard product (although they tend to be associated with summer). Among diver's watches, there are classic models that are unique or high-end, and there are countless masterpieces that are easily predicted to continue selling in the future. On the other hand, those with basic designs and functions that are "sounds like a diver's watch" tend to have a stronger character as a standard product. And I think the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic is a diver's watch that is very much a classic.
The reason is that it seems to share many stylistic similarities with the products of brands that have long produced classic diver's watches, such as Rolex, Omega, and Seiko. For example, the unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown with guard, and the not-too-small case size of 40mm or larger are all features of the traditional diver's watch design. This collection is available in several colors, and while there is a model with an unconventional color scheme of white and light blue, the deep blue of this watch is authentic for a diver's watch. Additionally, the glossy lacquer dial and vibrant bezel give it a nostalgic feel.
I've always loved diver's watches, and have admired the aforementioned Rolex Submariner. So, when I had the opportunity to review this watch, which has the same style as such a classic diver's watch, I honestly felt lucky. To be clear, the style is the same; the price, era, and design are all different, and each model is different. However, the iconic style that immediately identifies it as a diver's watch is a common denominator in the colorful modern diver's watch market. Also, as it's a classic, it has a timeless style, and I can honestly say that my desire to own a diver's watch was greatly satisfied by this review.
Luxurious details at a reasonable price
Along with its classic style, another great feature of this watch is its reasonable price. It's priced at 308,000 yen including tax. Due to rising raw material costs and exchange rates caused by global inflation, the prices of luxury watches, especially imported ones, continue to soar. If you're looking to buy a good diver's watch for just over 300,000 yen like this one, your options are few and far between, and if it's Swiss-made, the options are even more limited. In this context, this watch can be said to be a rare find.
It's not just cheap, but also has luxurious details. The aforementioned glossy lacquer dial and the bezel in the same color as the dial are shiny, giving it a clear presence and a luxurious feel.
My personal favorite feature of this dial is the bezel. It is the same color as the dial and has a gentle slope. This design allows the blue of the dial to flow seamlessly into the bezel, creating a unified design.
Although the indexes and hands do not have a particularly three-dimensional appearance, they are large and easy to read, as is typical of a diver's watch, and like the dial and bezel, they are glossy, which gives them a luxurious feel that is also appealing.
By the way, I took this watch with me on my trip to Langkawi Island in Malaysia (Reference:http://www.webchronos.net/blog/141131/). A PR representative from GM International, the official importer of Edox, had asked me to take it to the beach without worrying about scratches, so I was planning a resort trip (a solo one, it seems), and I wore this watch during my stay.
While Langkawi Island retains its idyllic landscape, it has been developed as a resort destination, dotted with luxury resort hotels and stylish restaurants. I often spent relaxing time at resort hotels with private beaches and outdoor pools, enjoying a nice dinner in the evening. On those occasions, this watch, with its moderate luxury, came in handy. Its large, sporty design might not suit a strict dress code, but it was easy to coordinate with a stylish dress for a resort stay. On the other hand, given its price and the nature of a diver's watch, it was perfectly suited to Southeast Asia, where it's hot, humid, and where sudden downpours are not uncommon (though I did take care, since it was a borrowed watch). While the Japan-limited model reviewed here is only available with a rubber strap, the collection also includes bracelet models, allowing you to choose one that suits your occasion and preferences.
How does it feel to use?
I am the wearer of this watch, a woman with a wrist circumference of 14.7cm. This watch is a diver's watch with a 42mm case, which is likely more popular with men, and I initially thought it might not be very comfortable to wear. This is because it is long, not just in diameter, but also in overall length. However, the rubber strap is flexible, and once I adjusted it to fit my wrist, it felt comfortable. There are plenty of adjustment holes, so it should fit a wide range of wrist sizes. However, it was still too long for me, so I had the strap cut off at the 12 o'clock position.
Using this watch, I was also struck by its excellent practicality. Incidentally, the "Grande Reserve" in the model name means "large power reserve." The Cal. 808 movement, based on the La Joux-Perret movement, boasts a power reserve of approximately 68 hours. While this isn't particularly long by modern standards, it's significantly longer than the 38-hour power reserve of the "Neptunian Automatic," equipped with the Cal. EDOX80 movement, based on Sellita's SW200. In fact, it's surprisingly convenient to not wear your watch over the weekend, and then pick it up on Monday morning and find it still running and you don't need to adjust the time.
I didn't measure the accuracy in detail, but when I received the game from the PR person, they said, "We've adjusted it down to the second!" And after leaving it like that for about a day (less than 24 hours), the error was -1 second. That's excellent static accuracy.
In addition to the waterproofness and robustness typical of a diver's watch, it was also a highly practical watch.
As an even more "classic" diver's watch
We reviewed the Japan-exclusive model of the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic, released by Edox this year.
The basic diver's watch style and reasonable pricing, combined with the wide variety of options and the dramatic inflation, will likely further strengthen the impression of this watch as a "classic" and become more popular as a wristwatch that appeals to everyone. There are many merits to "original diver's watches" and "ultra-luxury diver's watches," but if you are a watch user reading this article and are looking for a casual, long-lasting diver's watch, I would recommend this model as an option.
