Rolex launched the Perpetual 1908 in 2023, setting a new benchmark for classic watches. The following year, in 2024, a new variation was released featuring a platinum case and a rice grain guilloched dial. This delicate decoration, made using traditional techniques, is a design never before seen on a Rolex, and represents the company's challenge to explore new horizons in aesthetic expression.
Text by Daniela Pusch
Rolex: Photos
Photographs by Rolex
Mie Okamoto: Translation
Translation by Yoshie Okamoto
Edited by Yousuke Ohashi (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Guilloched Rolex: A New Aesthetic
In 2023, Rolex made waves with the launch of the Perpetual 1908 collection. This classic watch was named after the year Hans Wilsdorf founded the brand, ensuring Rolex's rich history would be passed on to the next generation. By returning to its origins with the Perpetual 1908, Rolex put an end to the Cellini collection.
The Cellini, born in 1968, was a model that focused on elegance and aesthetics rather than functionality and robustness, as exemplified by the then-legendary Oyster Perpetual. The Oyster series served as the basis for some of Rolex's best-known models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master and Cosmograph Daytona, developed as specialized tools for specific applications.
However, Rolex's philosophy took a new turn in the early 60s as it began to diversify its collections. The idea of owning multiple watches with different styles for different occasions became more popular, paving the way for the Cellini, which was designed as a dress watch.
In the 70s, a number of elegant models with non-waterproof cases, which did not require screw-down crowns or screw-down case backs, began to appear, in stark contrast to the Oyster series. These models placed emphasis on detail and used precious metals and sparkling gemstones. This marked the birth of a collection that focused on aesthetics and classic design rather than functionality. Now, half a century later, Rolex has embarked on a new chapter in this direction, with the Perpetual 1908 collection, which reinterprets traditional watchmaking style.
Rolex redefined the classic watch for its brand with the Perpetual 1908, featuring a small seconds dial, a delicate domed and fluted bezel, a simple dial, and a slim case. The movement, caliber 7140, contributes to its surprisingly classic look. A year after its release, in 2024, a new chapter began with the launch of a platinum model. This breathtakingly striking model, with its traditionally decorated dial, offers a bolder look than the Perpetual 1908 that preceded it.
A new dimension of elegance
Rolex enthusiasts will immediately notice the ice blue dial of the new Perpetual 1908. This color is only available on Rolex platinum models because, in Rolex's own words, "it is crafted from platinum, the noblest of metals, and is worthy of the finest watches."
Highly valued platinum is attractive for its silvery-white luster and brilliance. Platinum is one of the densest and heaviest metals, and has excellent physical and chemical properties, including excellent corrosion resistance, as well as excellent malleability and ductility. However, it is difficult to polish, and the craftsmen who work on it require a high level of skill. Rolex only uses platinum 950, which contains 95% platinum, and even this precious metal is manufactured in its own factory with outstanding skills.
Attractive guilloched decoration
The ice blue dial of the Perpetual 1908 is particularly notable for its delicate guilloched pattern known as the rice grain motif. A traditional engraving technique, guilloching lends a watch a lively, three-dimensional appearance. Starting from the small seconds at 6 o'clock, the pattern unfolds, creating a dynamic texture that captivates the viewer. While the Perpetual 1908, introduced in 2023, made a strong impression, this latest model takes it to a new level with the rice grain motif on the dial. The guilloched pattern, which extends across the entire dial, gives it a more vibrant feel than previous models. Additional guilloched engravings on either side of the minute scale further enhance the dial's finish.
A unique design that combines old and new
Hans Wilsdorf's groundbreaking innovations, while primarily revolutionizing the technical characteristics of wristwatches, were also the result of his aesthetic vision: like the original Oyster Perpetual from 1931, the case and dial of this watch reflect a classic yet modern spirit.
The ice blue dial, previously only available on models like the Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona, adds a special touch. Arabic numerals and faceted white gold hour markers at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock create a beautiful harmony with the double-edged sword-shaped minute hand and the elegant Breguet-style hour hand. This exquisite blend of old and new gives this model a classic yet timely character.
A timeless case
The watch's 39mm platinum case impresses with its slim silhouette and excellent proportions. The domed and fluted bezel, with its polished platinum surfaces, exudes a simple yet unique elegance. Despite its weight, the watch feels incredibly comfortable on the wrist—another hallmark of Rolex's finest craftsmanship. At just 9.5mm thick, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist while remaining robust enough to ensure water resistance to 50m.
Cutting-edge watchmaking technology
Inside this watch is the Caliber 7140, an automatic movement developed exclusively for this collection. Equipped with a silicon Syloxi hairspring and Chronergy escapement, it boasts a power reserve of approximately 66 hours and a precision chronometer rating of +/-2 seconds per day, meeting COSC standards. The transparent sapphire crystal case back allows visitors to admire the Rolex Côtes de Genève and other decorations, as well as the hollowed-out 18K gold rotor. Since Rolex watches typically have closed case backs, being able to see the internal mechanism is a highlight of this watch.
The watch's luxurious and versatile features are completed by a matte brown alligator leather strap, lined with green calf leather and fitted with a platinum double-fold dual clasp for a comfortable fit.
Proof of high-quality craftsmanship
The platinum version of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 is a tribute to the rich tradition of watchmaking. With its elegant design, exquisite craftsmanship and the finest materials, this timepiece will set a benchmark for classic Rolex watches for the future. It embodies Rolex's commitment to shaping the future of watchmaking while preserving the brand's heritage.
The platinum version of the Perpetual 1908 is simply stunning. Forget the notion that Rolex is a watch brand that only focuses on sports watches. This sophisticated classic is a modern interpretation of a classic Rolex watch.
At 4,635,400 yen, it's a little underwhelming to claim it's a top-tier classic watch, but it's clear that it's not a replacement for the brand's signature professional watches, but rather an option that captures the elegant side of Rolex. This watch combines the exceptional craftsmanship and reliability of Rolex, and its guilloched dial is captivating. We can't wait to see how the Perpetual 1908 collection develops in the future and what masterpieces it will produce.
