The Freak is a symbol of Ulysse Nardin's innovation. The new Freak X, an evolution of the Freak that makes it more suitable for everyday use, is the first regular Freak model to feature an hour disc finished with traditional enamel decoration. As a result, the iconic flying carousel's rotation orbit stands out, and the piece, which has acquired a certain sex appeal, is a crossover between cutting-edge technology and métiers d'art, and embodies the current state of Ulysse Nardin.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Edited and written by Iwao Yoshida
Edited & Text by Iwao Yoshida
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
"Freak X Gold Enamel" combines cutting-edge technology with traditional handwork
This new Freak X model retains the unique flying carousel design, made using silicon technology, but features a crown at 3 o'clock, making it an automatic model. The mysterious blue of the enamel contrasts beautifully with the gold used throughout, creating a very modern overall finish. Automatic (Cal. UN-230). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18KRG x Ti case (43mm diameter, 13.38mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 120 pieces worldwide. Price: 7,667,000 yen (tax included).
Devoid of a conventional dial or hands, the movement itself rotates to display the time... The Freak, launched in 2001, made a huge impact on the watch world with its unique mechanism. It was a bold evolution of the carousel mechanism, invented at the end of the 19th century to reduce the impact of gravity on accuracy. With the time set using the bezel instead of a crown and the winding mechanism located on the case back, this unorthodox model also incorporated innovative materials. It was the first in the watch industry to use silicon for movement parts. It was truly revolutionary in the sense that it subsequently inspired many brands to turn their attention to silicon, which has excellent anti-magnetic properties.
Since then, the Freak has continued to evolve, incorporating advanced materials and mechanisms, as if in a Maison laboratory. In 2019, the Freak X was released, retaining the Freak's innovative spirit while incorporating a crown for time adjustment and winding. Its slim, compact case, suitable for everyday use, and affordable price tag have successfully expanded its fan base. This year, a new, attractive model has been added to the lineup.
What's noteworthy is that for the first time on a regular Freak model, the hour disc is finished in enamel. This time-consuming process, also known as "guilloché flanking" due to its combination with guilloched decoration, was carried out by Donze Cadrans, a workshop specializing in enamel dials and currently under the umbrella of Ulysse Nardin. It takes approximately eight hours to complete, as skilled artisans repeatedly apply pigment and fire the dial. This luxurious part allows you to fully enjoy the Métiers d'Art, or artistic handwork by artisans, which is so highly valued by the Maison.
It is impressive how seamlessly it matches Freak's unique mechanism. The deep blue color created by applying multiple layers of enamel makes the radial pattern pop out clearly, making the movement of the flying carousel as it rotates over time even more dramatic.
The Freak is now synonymous with Ulysse Nardin and is widely recognized overseas. This timepiece, which beautifully combines the Maison's two core elements of cutting-edge watchmaking technology and traditional handcraftsmanship in a 43mm case suitable for daily use, is sure to further boost its popularity.
