Hublot celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang and looks back on its innovation

Since its stunning debut in 2005, the Big Bang has revamped the company's image and supported the revival of Hublot. Its sandwich-structured case and aggressive use of multiple materials embodied the "Art of Fusion" concept. It also expanded on this single icon with the development of high complications and a wide variety of limited editions. And beyond that, it embodied the company's fulfillment as a manufacture and its cutting-edge R&D in new materials, putting it at the forefront of the Swiss watch industry. The 20 years of achievements built by the Big Bang are the modern history of Hublot itself.

The anniversary model brings back the basics and evolution to the details

　The Big Bang may seem to have suddenly appeared in 2005, but a closer look at its origins reveals that it is a clever reinterpretation of the 1980s "classic" model. The five models in the newly announced Big Bang 20th Anniversary collection are also clear homages to the Big Bang Original. What sets them apart are the evolved details.

　Iconic designs that have left their mark on watchmaking history are sometimes born from a moment of inspiration. Just as the late Gérald Genta completed the design for Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak in just one day, Hublot's Big Bang also went from concept to prototype in just 10 months. Hublot founder Carlo Crocco handed the reins to Jean-Claude Biver, who became CEO in June 2004. At the time, Hublot's next-generation flagship model was a completely blank slate. Embracing the new concept of "Art of Fusion," design work was completed in August of the same year. The prototype was unveiled at Baselworld in March of the following year, and meticulous preparations for production began, with first deliveries beginning in June of the same year. Even more astonishing is that, even now, 20 years after its launch, the original Big Bang remains a catalog model, unchanged in its fundamental style (though with minor refinements in the manufacturing process).

　While there are various theories about how the Big Bang design came about, one of its origins is undoubtedly the "Classic" model made in the 1980s. When Hublot was first founded, it operated under the name "MDM Genève," and one of its iconic models was the "Hublot" (now known as the "Classic"), which means "porthole" in French. The Classic, which combined an 18K gold case with a rubber strap, was the latest model in the dawn of luxury sports watches, which began in the early 70s, and was also the first "fusion" model to skillfully combine different materials.

　Although not as prominent as the later Classic Fusion, the Big Bang still retains the classic details. Two iconic features include the lugs, which use screws to secure the rubber strap, and the oreille rings (known as "ears") that are sandwiched between the bezel and the top plate of the case to protect the crown and case sides. What made the Big Bang truly revolutionary was its use of a layered case with a sandwich structure. From the top, the Big Bang case is made up of the bezel, fiberglass oreille ring, top plate, middle case, bottom plate, and transparent case back, with fiberglass side plates on the left and right sides. The fusion aesthetic is created by using a variety of materials for these parts.

　This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, and Hublot presents a new fusion with a limited edition. The five-model "Big Bang 20th Anniversary Collection" combines the in-house chronograph "Unico" (which evolved into the thinner "Unico 2" in 2018) with an original design. The basic design is a refinement of the original exterior, predicated on the Unico. The inset dial layout retains the two-counter configuration unique to Unico-equipped watches, but unlike previous Unico models, which have tended to feature an open face, this model features a closed dial with a carbon-effect pattern. This is one detail borrowed from the original, and upon closer inspection, the individual checkered patterns are larger and more deeply carved. The rings around the small seconds and minute counters also emphasize the dial's three-dimensional effect. The keyword "three-dimensionality of a watch," which is now commonly spoken of, is one of the design factors that Hublot has emphasized since the Big Bang (i.e., the adoption of a sandwich structure).

　Turning your gaze to the side of the case, the notches added to the side of the bezel and the square-shaped pushers, which mimic the original, are eye-catching. The pushers, which are longer than those on the original, feel much better when pressed. This may be due in part to the difference in the movement, but it is a clear merit. Another small detail worth noting is the indentation on the back of the interchangeable structured rubber strap, which was not present on the original. This is a design feature to prevent the rubber from sticking due to sweat, and it surpasses the original in terms of overall ease of use.

　This anniversary limited edition is more of an updated version of the original than a one-off 20th anniversary edition, and this can be seen in the materials used. The stainless steel used in the original has been replaced with grade 5 titanium, and the 18K 5N gold has been replaced with Hublot's own 18K King Gold. The current titanium material is highly machinable, allowing for different satin polishes, and 18K King Gold, which prevents gold from discoloring or changing due to sulfurization, dramatically improves its sustainability as an ornamental material.

A symbol of "invisible visibility" that attempts clear legibility through detailed work

　Jean-Claude Biver, who contributed greatly to the creation of the Big Bang, has always strongly advocated the watchmaking philosophy of "invisible visibility." The all-black model first released in 2006 made a strong impression with the ambivalent thesis of "invisible visibility," but its true meaning is to enhance the watch's perfection by carefully refining details that might otherwise be overlooked. The 20th anniversary all-black model also achieves clear legibility through the accumulation of details discussed in detail in the titanium ceramic section.

Hublot's original material that fundamentally changes the concept of gold

　Of all the exterior materials used in the watch industry, 18K gold is probably the most common. However, even though its hardness is increased by alloying elements, it remains overwhelmingly softer than other metals. Hublot's "18K Magic Gold," released in 2011 after collaborative research with EPFL, replaced all alloying elements with ceramic, creating a scratch-free gold material. This unique process involves infiltrating pure gold into a porous ceramic case, resulting in a wet-looking surface and a distinctive gold color with a strong bluish tint.

A pioneer in colored ceramics, boasting advantages in color development and processing precision

　High-tech ceramic is lightweight, hypoallergenic, and highly scratch-resistant due to its high surface hardness. Hublot began developing this material late in the Swiss watch industry, but its quality has now reached unrivaled heights. Perhaps its most iconic recipe is red ceramic, which expresses a completely pure deep red. Ceramics undergo firing during the manufacturing process, which makes them prone to color clouding, and dimensional control is also strict. Hublot currently uses either cutting or molding depending on the color.