The Big Bang, which was born with a sandwich case, has evolved in every direction, serving as a platform for high complications and as a testing ground for the introduction of multi-materials. These two sets of packages, which condense the results of this evolution, are the culmination of Hublot's unique R&D and the key technologies that have supported its rapid progress over the past 20 years.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Hiroyuki Suzuki: Interview and text
Edited & Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Two box sets released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang
The watch features five of Hublot's most renowned ultra-complex mechanisms, including the Tourbillon Chronograph Cathedral Minute Repeater. It also incorporates cutting-edge material development, including the use of frosted carbon, a type of forged carbon, and a laminated material made of blue Texalium and carbon fiber for the case. Only one set was available, and it sold out during the W&WG exhibition. It was priced at 150.7 million yen (tax included).
Another surprise Hublot has prepared for the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang is two box sets. The unique "Material & High Complications" set features five ultra-complex mechanisms, including a tourbillon and minute repeater, and the "Master of Sapphire" set features a Mecha-10 movement in a SAXEM case with five-colored sapphire crystal. High complications and new materials are key factors that Hublot has focused on in the 20 years since the birth of the Big Bang.
The driving force behind this was Matthias Butte, Director of Research and Development. He joined Hublot in 2010 after previously leading BNB Concept, a complex watchmaking workshop with which Hublot had previously collaborated. He set up a laboratory and manufacturing facilities within the company's headquarters in Nyon, reminiscent of a chemical manufacturer, and rapidly accelerated its unique R&D. In the field of developing new materials, which he calls "alchemy," Hublot has become the watch industry's leading innovator. In addition to "18K Magic Gold" (first released in 11), born from joint research with EPFL, and vibrantly colored ceramics, Hublot has also begun its own research into sapphire crystal cases, which are considered particularly difficult to manufacture, since 16.
The hand-wound "Mecha 10" movement is housed in one of five sapphire crystal cases. The striking yellow neon color is achieved using Hublot's proprietary SAXEM material. The sapphire crystal itself is created in a laboratory in Nyon, and the unique color is a testament to the research results. Only five sets are available worldwide. Price: 82,885,000 yen (tax included).
The first model, the Big Bang Unico Sapphire (16), featured colorless, transparent sapphire crystal for the case and bezel. The following year, 17, saw the introduction of red and blue sapphire crystal. Since then, Hublot has eliminated the use of synthetic resin in some parts and promoted the use of all-sapphire crystal for the exterior, while also expanding the color options. However, Hublot's innovations in sapphire crystal go beyond color. In 20, the brand became the first in the watch industry to adopt "SAXEM," a material with the same hardness as conventional sapphire crystal but superior color and brilliance. SAXEM, short for Sapphire Aluminum Oxide and Rare Earth Minerals, is a type of aluminum oxide similar to regular sapphire crystal, but is also a cubic alloy material containing rare earth elements and chromium. Unlike trigonal sapphire crystal, SAXEM produces its own luminous color rather than reflecting light. This new material was originally developed in the aerospace industry for its ultra-high durability, but Hublot decided to adopt it because of its excellent color development.
The launch of the Big Bang in 2005 marked a major turning point for Hublot. The 20 years since then have been marked by the company's maturation as a manufacture and a history of unique R&D. The 15-piece limited edition "Big Bang 20th Anniversary" is the epitome of modern Hublot.
