After honing his skills at a long-established eel restaurant and one of Japan's leading tea ceremony restaurants, chef Hideaki Monoe has gone independent, captivating gourmets with his modest yet captivating dishes.
Carefully selected eel is lightly grilled over charcoal and then carefully cooked with Japanese pepper for two days, and is then paired with vinegared rice made simply with white vinegar, taking advantage of the chewy and rich texture of Uonuma koshihikari rice. According to Monoe, "Kabayaki is a complete dish in itself, so it only becomes a complete Japanese dish when combined with cooked eel and rice." It can be served on its own or as part of a hassun (a traditional Japanese dish with a side dish).
Text by Yui Togawa
Photo by Yu Mitamura
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A modest and memorable experience
Born in Niigata Prefecture in 1979. After graduating from high school, he trained for five and a half years at the long-established local restaurant, "Ryotei Ichijime." He moved to Tokyo and served as sous chef at the Japanese cuisine restaurant in the Ginza main store of "Soke Minamoto Kitchoan" (now closed), before becoming the second head chef. At the age of 38, he spent eight years in the world of tea ceremony cuisine at "Mizai" in Kyoto. In June 2025, he opened "Ginza Toraara."
Eel is a food ingredient that symbolizes chef Monoe Hideaki. His first stop was the long-established restaurant Ichishime in his hometown of Niigata, which specialized in eels. "Even though I had never even touched a fish before, the first thing I had to learn was how to fillet an eel. I trained under the master (third-generation chef Shozo Kojima), who was over 70 years old at the time, and I gradually gained confidence. Working silently next to him, I started competing with myself. I would tell myself I would fillet the eel faster and more accurately than the master. Of course I couldn't win, but when it was over he said, 'I'm not going to lose to you yet.' He had noticed me, and I still remember those words vividly."
He later served as head chef of Japanese cuisine at the Ginza main branch of "Soke Minamoto Kitchoan," but his love for the field led him to Kyoto's tea and kaiseki restaurant "Mizai." He spent eight years there, and recalls learning the "essence of hospitality" from his owner, Ishihara Hitoshi. Monoe says that opening "Ginza Toraara" was a way to give back to those who had looked after him up until then, and when asked about his future plans, he said, "I want to evolve together with my customers and develop my restaurant." Perhaps it is this caring attitude toward such important people that underlies his work? The dignified appearance of the dishes Monoe creates is captivating, and as you eat them, your soul feels gradually nourished.
When chefs achieve their culmination and go independent, many use their own name. The dignified surname Monoe is a rare one, as "my grandfather, who was a head priest, was given it by the priest himself, and I've never met anyone outside of my family with the same surname." One might think, "Wouldn't it be better to name him Ginza Monoe?" However, Monoe's character is also evident in his choice of the adorable name "Ginza Toraara," pronounced "Koara" rather than "Toraara." "The term kaiseki tea ceremony may sound intimidating, but I want you to enjoy it to your heart's content, without being bound by conventions," he says. The sweet treat served after the meal is tiger rolls. Each guest is served tea individually, and each matcha bowl features a different tiger design. This subtle playfulness brings a smile to your face.
Ginza Koara
JUNO Ginza Seiwa Building 3F, 8-7-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Tel.03-6263-8873
Closed on Sundays, public holidays, and other irregular holidays
12:00~, 18:00~, 20:30~ *All participants start at the same time
Seasonal Chef's Choice: 28,000 yen (10% service charge not included)
