Italy is a magical land for design. The designs produced immediately after the war were especially round and charming. Italian tattoo artist Moe Coppoletta, who also works in the watch industry, has worked his magic on a new watch. Martin Green, an editor and writer for the US edition of WatchTime, explores the charms of this watch, which promises a life of luxury for anyone who owns it.
A watch with Italian magic
There must be something special about Italy, otherwise it's hard to explain how so many amazing designs come out of this place. Whether it's a car, a dress, or a coffee maker, Italians make it special.
And the most amazing thing is how effortlessly they do it: just a few lines, a few details, and another classic is born. It's just as easy to do it in watchmaking, and the Gaga Laboratorio "Labormatic" is proof of this.
This is a lovely, rounded wristwatch with an Italian design reminiscent of cars and scooters from the immediate post-war period. Automatic (Cal. LJP G100). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.3mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 891,000 yen (tax included).
The designs for these watches were created by Mo Coppoletta, known as one of the world's most renowned tattoo artists. However, that doesn't quite sum it up: he's also a talented designer and has collaborated with a variety of brands, including those in the watch industry.
His first project was a design for A Sailor's Grave by the now-defunct Romain Jerome brand. He then worked with Stepan Sarpaneva's SUF Helsinki and Bvlgari, giving his interpretation of the Octo Finissimo. Working with Gaga Laboratorio, Coppoletta was able to reinvent the lines of post-war Italian design, as there was no existing watch to base his work on.
Unique time displays and details
The hour display is not a jumping display, but a slowly rotating disc-type wandering hour display, which also allows you to see the 30-minute increments. This not only allows you to see the hours and minutes at a glance, but the central emblem rotates in place of the second hand, visually communicating the movement of the watch. This design skillfully utilizes the reflection of light, giving the dial a rich expression.
This is a unique model that uses discs instead of hands to display the time. Automatic (Cal. LJP G100). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.3mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 891,000 yen (tax included).
This type of Italian design is more elaborate than current styles. To explain, one can broadly generalize today's Italian design to think of it as a perfectly crafted scoop of gelato. The immediate post-war Italian design would be that same scoop of gelato served in a beautiful ice cream cup and topped with whipped cream and chopped pistachios.
The Labormatic begins with a case made up of seven parts. The lugs flare outward, and the crown at 12 o'clock is a striking feature. The time is displayed in a window at 12 o'clock, creating the so-called wandering hour.
This means that the disc behind it rotates slowly and doesn't jump. Gaga Laboratorio has developed this method of displaying the time, and the window also displays half-hour increments. This is a nice touch, and the exact minutes are indicated by a hand. There is no seconds hand; instead, the central emblem rotates.
Italian sensibility and comfort
Not only is the case itself well-crafted, but the various elements on the dial are equally well-crafted. This creates a sense of depth and a play of light, which also makes this watch fundamentally different from anything else on the market. With a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 13.30mm, it is extremely comfortable to wear.
Setting the time was sometimes difficult, and the strap would sometimes get in the way when pulling the crown. Fortunately, the strap has a quick release, allowing you to remove it, set the time, and put it back on in a few seconds. I didn't mind this too much, probably because I'm used to driving Italian cars, where functionality is often, thankfully, sacrificed for design.
Equipped with a reliable movement
As for the movement, Gaga Laboratorio chose the La Joux-Perret Caliber LJP-G100. A good choice. Not only is this movement highly reliable, it also boasts a power reserve of approximately 68 hours. Readers of WatchTime USA know that I, Martin Green, am a sucker for this kind of power reserve.
In today's world of watches, a 48-hour power reserve seems like the bare minimum in my opinion. Unless a brand is trying to break the ultra-thin record, more should be expected in the world of luxury watches. The back of the watch also echoes the design of the front, thanks to a customized rotor.
Variation development
Gaga Laboratorio initially released the Labormatic in two versions, differing in more than just color. One, called the Cinquanta, features a beautiful mint dial with a black-framed red arrow indicating the minutes. The other, oddly enough, is called the Bauhaus, after the famous German design school, though that's not what you'd typically associate with this sleek watch.
Aside from the attractive red minute hand, the Bauhaus is a more monochrome proposition. Parts of the case are black-coated, making the intricacy of the construction more visible. These are separate segments that together form the case. Gaga Laboratorio alternates the background of the hour display between black and gray every hour. The Cinquanta follows the same scheme, but here it's more understated, with mint green and cream.
Currently, color variations such as "Champagne" and "Azzurro" are also available.
High-quality straps and finishing
Gaga Laboratorio also showed great taste in their choice of strap, opting for beautiful, high-quality Saffiano leather rather than exotic alligator or flashy lizard leather, which provides the perfect base to complement the watch itself, without compromising on quality.
The same can be said for the watch as a whole: the finish is excellent to look at and touch. All things considered, the 891,000 yen price tag (including tax) is well justified. That is, if you don't mind turning a few heads, because this watch is a real eye-catcher on the wrist.
