The Lange 1 has reigned as an icon in the watch industry since its launch in 1994. Despite introducing an asymmetry never before seen in the watch industry, this model has now become recognized as a timeless classic. The reasons for its immediate success are actually its principled design and outstanding movement.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A timeless asymmetrical design that will continue into the next generation thanks to outstanding development capabilities
Many of the masterpieces that exist today are the result of chance alone. Examples include the improvised Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, which has seen a revival thanks to its fascinating design, and the Cartier Tank, which was born unexpectedly and was inspired by the shape of a tank. However, there are also watches that were intended to be masterpieces from the planning stage, and have indeed become such. A good example of this is the Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne.
Founded in 1845, the prestigious German watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne was nationalized after World War II and ended its history. However, following the reunification of Germany in 1994, it was revived and released four new models. One of these is the Lange 1, which features an asymmetrical design. While there were watches with an offset layout in the past, this is the only model whose asymmetrical layout has become iconic.
The reason why the Lange 1 suddenly became a masterpiece was because of its thorough design. All the displays on the dial do not overlap, and they are composed only of basic elements such as circles, squares, triangles, and the golden ratio. In other words, despite its unusual asymmetrical dial, the design is fundamentally orthodox. It is no surprise that the unique yet orthodox Lange 1 achieved such success that other companies envied it.
What's more, this model also stands out for its movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre's completely redesigned manual-wound caliber L901.1. Its practical power reserve of approximately 72 hours, high precision, and meticulous finishing also brought the new Lange 1 fame.
The Lange 1 underwent a model change in 2015. However, A. Lange & Söhne was cautious about improving this iconic model. As a result, the company barely changed the design, only making changes to the internals. If you had to point out a difference in appearance between the old and new models, it would be that the bezel and lugs (the four legs that fasten the strap) are slightly thinner. Unless you put the old and new models side by side and compare them in a mean way, no one would notice, right? When we asked Anthony de Haas, head of development, why this was the case, he explained, "We didn't want to change the design of this classic model, but we made some slight changes so that it would remain unchanged for the next 20 years."
However, if you turn the watch over and look at the movement, the differences are clear. While it looks similar to the previous model, the balance wheel, the heart of the watch, has been enlarged. Just as larger links are less likely to tip over when subjected to shock, a larger balance wheel stabilizes the movement of the watch and improves precision. The previous Lange 1 was highly accurate, but even at its debut, its balance wheel was clearly small. A. Lange & Söhne's development team set out to give it a "big heart," and they were successful. The mechanism for regulating the time also features a free-sprung balance wheel without a regulator. This makes it less likely to lose time even when subjected to strong shocks or when the mainspring is about to unwind. As a result, the unique and iconic Lange 1 is now one of the most high-performance mechanical watches ever made.
The fine craftsmanship goes without saying. The movement, which uses German silver for the plate and bridges, is so meticulously finished that it can withstand viewing under a magnifying glass, and the feel when turning the crown is smooth and reminiscent of a high-quality product.
To be honest, few people would be able to tell the difference between the old and new Lange 1s side by side. However, if you look at the back, you can see that the contents are completely different. A. Lange & Söhne matures its products by keeping the concept. This approach has elevated and nurtured the iconic Lange 1 into an even more iconic model.
This is a masterpiece that combines the unprecedented design element of asymmetry in a classical style. Although it has been about 30 years since its release, the design remains innovative. The current model, released in 2015, has a case that is 0.2mm thinner than the previous model, and the lug design has been revised to improve the fit. In addition to the 18KPG case (right), the lineup also includes an 18KWG case (left). Both are priced at 649 million yen (tax included).
Directly operated boutique list
Tokyo
Ginza Boutique Tel.03-3573-7788
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Matsuzakaya Nagoya Boutique Tel. 050-5785-1184
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Osaka Shinsaibashi Boutique Tel. 06-6245-4281
https://www.alange-soehne.com/jp-ja/boutiques
