Timepieces that will be passed down forever #15 Takano "Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer"

Takano, a legendary Japanese watch brand that existed for only four years and eleven months between 1957 and 1962, made a comeback in May 2024. The mastermind behind this is Hajime Asaoka, an independent watchmaker who heads Tokyo Watch Precision. The dial proudly displays the word "CHRONOMETER." The first model from the new Takano debuted as a true chronometer, demonstrating the high precision worthy of a "world-class luxury watch."

The first Japanese-made chronometer of the 21st century, embodied through the revival and development of a legendary brand

　Takano was a domestic watch brand launched in 1957 by Takano Precision Industries, headquartered in Nagoya. Its stated concept was "world-class luxury watches." The company introduced Swiss-made machine tools, which were extremely rare in Japan at the time, and also partnered with American watchmaker Hamilton to produce high-performance movements. However, the company was unable to recover from the devastating damage caused by the Isewan Typhoon, and in 62 was acquired by the San-ai Group, which also operated Riken Optical and the Nishi Ginza department store, and was relaunched as Ricoh Watch (now Ricoh Elemex).

　Hajime Asaoka, the first independent Japanese watchmaker, had long been a fan of Takano. He was attracted to the spirit of challenge that led to the creation of the smallest Japanese-made watch and the world's thinnest three-hand watch. He decided to revive the short-lived, elusive Japanese brand.

　Before embarking on watchmaking, Asaoka worked as a product designer and a creator of sophisticated CG. Founding Tokyo Watch Precision in 2016, he returned to his designer roots and began mass-producing watches under the name Chrono Tokyo. For each model, Asaoka created the 3D data and outsourced the case and dial production to trusted Japanese companies. Chrono Tokyo watches are entirely made in Japan, employing movements made by Miyota, a subsidiary of Citizen, and Time Module, a member of the Seiko Group. Asaoka's desire to showcase Japan's superior technology to the world embodies this. Takano, who followed in his footsteps, continued his predecessor's concept of "world-class luxury watches" and aimed to further heights as an entirely made-in-Japan watch. His method for achieving this was to obtain chronometer certification.

　Asaoka negotiated with Ricoh Elemex to borrow the trademark and interviewed the engineers from that time, preparing for the revival. At the same time, he personally visited the Besançon Observatory in France and secured a contract for chronometer certification. Currently, chronometer certification is conducted by four organizations: COSC and Timelab in Switzerland, the Glashütte Observatory in Germany, and the Besançon Observatory. Of these, only the Besançon Observatory accepts inspections from overseas. The testing and passing standards are the same as those of COSC. However, the hurdles to certification are much higher. This is because COSC tests the movement alone, allowing the use of false hands, which are lighter and easier to achieve accuracy, whereas the Besançon Observatory tests the completed product.

　The new Takano's first model, the "Château Nouvelle Chronometer," unveiled in May 2012, featured details favored by Asaoka, such as a simple bombe-style sector dial with applied bar and dot indices and skyscraper-shaped hour and minute hands. The automatic winding rotor, visible through the transparent palette bag, bears the "Tête de Vipère" (meaning "snake's head" in French), a mark of authenticity that the watch passed the Besançon Observatory chronometer test. The first Japanese-made chronometer wristwatch of the 21st century was born.

　The watch is equipped with the Caliber PWT, based on a Miyota movement. The balance and escapement are removed and re-adjusted by the technicians of Tokyo Tokei Seimitsu. The rim of the balance wheel is shaved to eliminate eccentricity, the balance shaft is checked to ensure it is perpendicular to the wheel, and the pivot (tip) is finely adjusted. When returning the escapement, the engagement between the pallet stones and escape wheel is adjusted, and the center position of the anchor and impulse jewel is precisely aligned. Even with such meticulous readjustment, the initial chronometer pass rate is said to be around 30%. The Besançon Observatory test is indeed difficult. However, the new Takano is up to the challenge, aiming to become a "world-class luxury watchmaker" by leveraging high precision as its weapon.