Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has driven the evolution of chronographs, giving shape to reliable functionality. This accumulation of experience lives on in the timeless functional beauty of the Navitimer and Chronomat. The former represents the "beauty of an instrument," while the latter represents the "beauty of a versatile instrument." Both are refined based on functionality, and their reliability translates into elegance. -- A tradition that continues. The reason for their popularity is proven by their daily use.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Edited and written by Takahiro Ohno
Edited & Text by Takahiro Ohno (Office Peropaw)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A unique brilliance in the tradition of the sky
This rare, limited edition Navitimer in a black MOP and 18K red gold case is available exclusively to 50 Japanese fans. Breitling's MOP is known for its high quality, and the unique patterns and textures of natural materials, as well as the beauty that changes with the light, are highly sought after by both men and women. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18K red gold case (41mm diameter, 13.6mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 50 pieces in Japan. Price: 3,179,000 yen (tax included).
The "beauty of instruments" goes beyond the boundaries of pilot watches and is also applicable in the context of music and fashion. The Navitimer is a rare aviation chronograph that combines culture and practicality with a special device called an aviation rotary slide rule. The ability to "calculate" on the wrist is itself a design necessity, and its significance remains unshaken even in this digital age. Rather, its classical functional beauty has continued to be highly valued among enthusiasts.
The current model features a slimmer rotating slide rule and a domed sapphire crystal, maintaining modern-retro proportions while improving visibility and optimizing the wearer's comfort. The in-house Caliber 01 boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and COSC-certified accuracy. The column wheel and vertical clutch provide a clear, instrument-like feel. Available in sizes ranging from 36, 41, 43, and 46mm, the watches are available in stainless steel, gold, and combination dials. In addition to traditional black and silver, the dials are available in a variety of colors, including blue, green, copper, and mop, blending seamlessly into both the cockpit and urban life. The lineup also includes GMT, three-hand automatic, and a 32mm women's quartz movement. For example, the 41mm Navitimer B01 Chronograph is available only in silver in the regular 18K gold case, while the black mop is available only in the Japan Limited edition, offering a truly sophisticated selection.
It's important to remember that the Navitimer's current success is backed by a rich and varied history. Development began in 1952 as an attempt to put an aviation circular slide rule on the wrist, and the first model, completed two years later, was adopted as the official watch of the International Association of Owners and Pilots (AOPA). The wings at 12 o'clock became a signature symbol of its origins. In 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter used a Navitimer Cosmonaute with a 24-hour display, demonstrating its practicality in space, where there is no concept of day or night. Furthermore, in the 1960s and 1970s, beloved by the likes of Miles Davis and Serge Gainsbourg, the watch evolved from an instrument into a style icon.
This 41mm model combines the functional beauty of the Navitimer, featuring a rotating slide rule, with a GMT function. The central coaxial display of the second time zone provides both legibility and intuitive operation. It comes in a popular, refreshing ice blue color. Automatic winding (Cal. 32). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.65mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Priced at 885,500 yen (tax included).
A classic 43mm chronograph. The rotating slide rule, domed crystal, and return of the AOPA logo strike the perfect balance between tradition and modernity. A wide variety of dial color and bracelet/strap combinations are available. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 13.69mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,281,500 yen (tax included).
While modern large jets are increasingly automated, many smaller aircraft still rely on analog instruments, including fuel gauges. In the unlikely event of an instrument failure, an aviation slide rule can instantly perform many aviation calculations, including fuel consumption, ground speed, distance per minute, and average climb and descent rates. The Navitimer is a useful instrument as a last resort. Furthermore, because slide rules allow for easy multiplication and division, they can also be used for everyday calculations such as currency conversions and fuel consumption.
In other words, the Navitimer is, now as in the past, a "working instrument" that can be used from the cockpit to the street corner. While it is a cultural icon, its core practicality remains unwavering. The reason it continues to be chosen is the persuasive power of beauty that is driven by function.
The 46mm diameter exudes a regal presence. The wide dial enhances the readability of the rotary slide rule, making it a dignified presence in both the cockpit and on the street. The well-balanced case shape makes it comfortable to wear despite its large size. Automatic winding (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 46mm, thickness 13.95mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,369,500 yen (tax included).
This 36mm three-hand Navitimer is reinterpreted without the chronograph, featuring a rotating slide rule with beaded details and hours, minutes, and seconds. A wide variety of colors, materials, and bracelet/strap options allow for versatile styling. Automatic (Cal. 17). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 18KRG case (36mm diameter, 11.42mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,715,000 yen (tax included).
Functional beauty and elegance for any occasion
The unidirectional rotating bezel with rider tabs is tougher and wider than the Navitimer, and the case is more voluminous, further highlighting the luxury of the 18K red gold. The anthracite-colored dial, jet-black subdials, and Rouleaux-style rubber strap combine to create a rare, Japan-only limited edition. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18K red gold case (42mm diameter, 15.1mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 3,443,000 yen (tax included).
Refined style and a solid feel. The Chronomat is a versatile chronograph that elevates power to a premium level. Two signature features, the rider tabs on the bezel and the Rouleaux bracelet, intuitively convey its functionality at a glance, blur the boundaries between urban and outdoor, formal and casual wear. The in-house Caliber 01 movement with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, a robust case with 200m water resistance, a highly legible dial, and easy handling make it a solid foundation for everyday use. Case sizes range from 40/42/44mm to a 36mm three-hand automatic watch and 32/28mm women's models. A wide variety of colors are available, making a single watch the centerpiece of any wardrobe.
The roots of the Chronomat, which continues to redefine the standard of "versatility," date back to 1983. At a time when thin quartz movements were at their peak, Breitling collaborated with the Italian Air Force's Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team to redefine the mechanical chronograph as a "useful tool" for the next generation. The removable rider tabs, when swapped between 15 and 45, serve as a countdown scale and also act as a non-slip grip when wearing gloves. The Rouleaux bracelet, which rhythmically connects the lugs, combines a supple fit with a distinctive appearance. These elements create a unique design code that maintains the "power of an instrument" while blending with urban sophistication.
Interestingly, when the Chronomat was released the following year, professional pilots enthusiastically praised its functionality, while average users raved about its design. It's also symbolic that its global success began in Italy, a country with a keen aesthetic sense. Recent updates have focused on enhancing its sophistication without compromising its functional beauty. The current model, launched in 2020, clearly defines its "multipurpose" stage. Its modern-retro look blends seamlessly into a variety of settings, while simultaneously evoking a sense of power and elegance. For example, the 18KRG x Anthracite version, which was included in the lineup from the start, garnered high praise for its trendy "black gold" accents paired with a gray dial, a color scheme that perfectly matched Japanese tastes. This recognition led to the creation of a Japan Edition, featuring a Reuleaux-inspired rubber strap. Given that the current regular model of the solid gold Chronomat is only available with a green dial, this Japanese version remains a strong favorite.
Ultimately, the Chronomat continues to evolve even now, more than 40 years after its creation. Its shape, which is not reliant on decoration but rather arises from the necessity of operation and wearing, resulting in a quiet elegance. From business and party scenes, travel to weekends by the sea, in an era when standards are often blurred between appearance and purpose, the Chronomat has become the very standard, embodying the dignity of functional beauty.
The heart of the Chronomat, 42mm diameter. Features a unidirectional rotating bezel with rider tabs, a Rouleaux bracelet, and the in-house Caliber 01. Delicate polished and satin finishes. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 15.1mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 1,254,000 yen (tax included).
A 44mm diameter that combines presence and practicality. Features include a unidirectional rotating bezel, guarded pushers, and a ceramic crown, all set with a Reuleaux-inspired rubber band. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (44mm diameter, 14.45mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 1,688,500 yen (tax included).
This travel-ready watch features a 24-hour scale around the outer edge of the dial and a central coaxial GMT hand that indicates a second time zone. Its 40mm diameter fits comfortably under a cuff, and the highly legible dial and date display are practical. Automatic (Cal. 32). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 11.77mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 858,000 yen (tax included).
This unisex, three-hand watch features a refined design concept. It features a sophisticated silhouette and a Rouleaux bracelet, and is available in a wide variety of dial colors, materials, and bezel decorations. Automatic (Cal. 10). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Approximately 42-hour power reserve. Stainless steel and 18KRG case (36mm diameter, 10.01mm thick). 10 bar water resistance. Price: 1,166,000 yen (tax included).
