We'll be reviewing the Bell & Ross BR-X3 Black Titanium. This model is part of the new collection announced in the fall of 2025. It features a titanium case, a multi-layered dial, and a Kenissi movement.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 10, 2025]
Review of Bell & Ross' latest 2025 model!
In the autumn, when many brands are announcing new products, Bell & Ross unveiled their new collection, the BR-X3. The BR-X3 is a collection that has evolved further from the BR-03, which features the brand's iconic square case.
While maintaining the basic design, the use of a multi-layered dial and a Kenissi manufacture movement makes it a more modern luxury watch in terms of both design and specifications. There are currently two variations: a tool-like model with a sandblasted grade 2 titanium case, and a model with a refreshing blue dial and stainless steel case.
I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to borrow this valuable new product, so I would like to write down my impressions, from its exterior to how it feels to wear.
The BR-X5 combines a square titanium case with a multi-layered dial reminiscent of an instrument. It is equipped with a Kenissi manufacture movement. Automatic winding (BR-CAL.323). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Ti case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.3mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,243,000 yen (tax included).
A presence worthy of being called an instrument
My first impression of this watch was that it was overwhelmingly mechanical. The square case, inspired by a cockpit clock, and the complex, multi-layered dial have an appeal that goes beyond reason and naturally evokes a sense of exhilaration, like the interior of a spaceship in a movie.
The dial is composed of a black base with a gray frame-like part attached on top and a cone-shaped flange. The gray frame creates a sense of continuity with the titanium case, while the black flange tightens the overall dial. The date display is located at 3 o'clock. It displays three days at once, including one day before and one day after, and is indicated by a triangular marker. It is likely based on the design of the altimeters installed on aircraft.
In contrast, located at the 9 o'clock position is the power reserve indicator. This is likely modeled after a fuel gauge. The 6 o'clock position is marked E (Empty) and the 12 o'clock position is marked F (Full), and the indicator is divided into blocks numbered 1 to 3. This model has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, so each mark on the scale should correspond to roughly one day's worth of power.
The watch also features three-dimensional indexes. The two Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o'clock are so high that they appear to float on the black dial, while the bar indexes appear to be partially embedded in the flange. Each is coated with luminous paint, ensuring full visibility even in the dark. The hour and minute hands are angled on both sides to create shadows, and combined with the sandblasted finish, they ensure visibility even under strong light sources. The cone-shaped flange allows for a short distance between the minute and second hands and the scale, allowing for accurate time reading.
Square case with sandwich construction
The unique case structure, rarely seen with other brands, is also one of the elements that shapes the appeal of this watch. The sandblasted gray bezel and the top and bottom of the case are clearly made of grade 2 titanium, while the middle case between them is made of black DLC-treated titanium, and rubber parts are attached to the four corners and the bottom of the bezel. These parts are secured with screws at the four corners, and high-precision machining and excellent design ensure that the watch is water resistant to 100m. Despite the disadvantages of a square case, which is said to be difficult to achieve water resistance with, and a structure made up of multiple parts, this watch still has the waterproof performance to be worn with confidence even in bad weather.
A crown guard is located at the 3 o'clock position to prevent the crown from being damaged by unexpected impacts. The screw-down crown has grooves on the outer periphery that provide a good grip, and the diameter itself is large, so the presence of the crown guard does not impair operability.
The lugs are short and protrude downwards. They almost blend in with the rubber strap, making the lugs virtually invisible. The strap is punched and has a sharp taper. The sporty design matches the dial and case. The watch is fitted with a fishtail-style buckle with a wide hook, giving it a presence that rivals that of the case.
Kenissi movement developed for Bell & Ross
The case back is see-through, allowing you to view the movement inside. This model is equipped with the BR-CAL.323, the same movement developed in collaboration with Kenissi as the BR-X5 released in 2022. Kenissi's movements boast excellent performance and are used by renowned brands such as Tudor and Chanel, which are Kenissi's investment partners, as well as Breitling, Tag Heuer, Fortis, and Norqain.
The appearance of this movement, with its plain-looking, thinly brushed bridges and thin rotor, is by no means satisfying as a so-called luxury watch movement. However, the overall finish in a slightly dark gray emphasizes its industrial look and blends beautifully with the instrument-like case. If the movement installed in this watch, which has a strong tool-like feel, had been finished in every detail, it would have given a disjointed impression.
What's most noteworthy is the specs, not the looks. It boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and high precision, earning it COSC-certified chronometer status. The free-sprung balance and double-supporting balance cock theoretically provide excellent shock resistance. Bell & Ross offers a five-year warranty on models equipped with this movement, demonstrating their confidence in its quality.
Just wearing it will make you feel excited!
I've always had a soft spot for titanium watches, especially sports watches. Their solid appearance contrasts with their surprisingly light weight when you hold them in your hand, creating a confusing feeling in the brain that makes them seem cheap. I'm not sure how many of you can relate to this, but it's like the feeling you get when you pick up a camera or cell phone at an electronics store and it turns out to be a mockup.
However, titanium is a material full of charms that cannot be ignored. Its lightness translates into a comfortable fit, allowing it to be worn for long periods without fatigue. It is hypoallergenic and even less susceptible to rust than stainless steel. These properties are more pronounced in grade 2, which is pure titanium, while grade 5, which is an alloy, can be given polished or hairline finishes, and its bright color gives it a luxurious appearance.
As for this model, it exceeded my expectations in a good way. It has just the right amount of weight and solidity, and it feels solid in the palm of your hand. The square case is larger in volume than the round case, so perhaps that's what contributes to its comfort. However, when you actually wear it, it doesn't feel like a burden on your wrist at all. In addition to its light weight, the supple rubber strap also contributes to the comfort. It perfectly balances practicality with a sense of satisfaction.
And above all, the greatest appeal of this watch lies in the details that will get you excited whether you like it or not, and that will tickle the hearts of mechanical enthusiasts. The case and dial are strangely integrated, and combined with the bold square shape, it feels like a single piece of instrument. This is probably because the case and dial use the same color scheme, such as the black on the middle case and center of the dial, and the sandblasted gray on the case and dial frame and hands.
A contemporary luxury watch with a distinctive character
In today's world, wearing a wristwatch is likely becoming more of a hobby. With so many ways to check the time everywhere, not having one is only a minor inconvenience in certain situations. However, this is precisely why the act of wearing a wristwatch should have a more positive meaning. I think that people are increasingly paying attention to aspects of wristwatches that go beyond just being a tool for checking the time, such as inspiring or expressing themselves.
The BR-X3, which I reviewed this time, was a model that perfectly met those needs. Its instrument-like design and the square case that is symbolic of Bell & Ross reflect the brand's history and philosophy to the fullest. Products created with the belief that they make what the brand wants to make, rather than being swayed by trends, exude an irresistible allure for those who are enamored with the brand. And choosing a watch based on your own judgment that it is a good product leads to self-expression through your watch.
This model is certainly not for everyone. The dial is easy to read, the case is light, and the rubber strap feels supple against the skin. While it's practically flawless, its design is quite distinctive. Luxury watches these days are undergoing clear trends. It's not uncommon for multiple brands to release watches with common elements, such as luxury sports watches or specific color dials, in a short space of time. Amid this, the BR-X3, which seems to say, "Follow me," is truly dazzling.
