Submariner? Sea-Dweller? What kinds of Rolex diver's watches are there?

Rolex was one of the first brands in the watch industry to adopt screw-down case backs and crowns, and today it is a brand that has produced a large number of highly reliable diver's watches, including the Oyster Perpetual Submariner. In this article, we will explain the types of diver's watches available in the current collection, along with some representative models.

Explaining the types of Rolex diver's watches!

　Responding to the demands of professional use and the growing popularity of scuba diving, Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual Submariner in 1953. As one of the world's first diver's watches with water resistance to 100 meters, this watch laid the foundation for many tool watches that followed.

　This Submariner not only featured a rotating bezel and a highly legible dial layout, but also a "Twinlock crown" with a double sealed structure, which achieved groundbreaking water resistance for the time. Its performance continued to evolve steadily, with the development of the "Triplelock crown" with a triple sealed structure, achieving water resistance to 300m.

　In parallel with the Submariner's spec upgrades, higher-end models were born that retained the Submariner's unidirectional rotating bezel and high legibility while enhancing its performance as a diving tool, further advancing Rolex's waterproofing technology. In 2022, Rolex released a collection of watches with 11,000m water resistance, which could reach the deepest depths of the Earth's oceans, as a general-purpose model. Furthermore, in recent years, each collection has offered a wide variety of case materials and color variations, making it possible to meet a wide range of needs beyond professional use.

　Below, we will introduce in detail the Submariner, the origin of Rolex's diver's watches, as well as two other models: the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller and the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea.

　All current Rolex diver's watches are equipped with the in-house movement, Cal. 3235 (Cal. 3230 for non-date models). This movement not only offers excellent accuracy in its casing and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, but also provides excellent shock resistance and magnetic resistance, both of which are essential for tool watches.

"Oyster Perpetual Submariner"

　The Submariner, released in 1953, is a collection that laid the foundation for subsequent diver's watches. The current model is water resistant to 300m and, like the collections described below, comes standard with a Cerachrom bezel insert that is highly scratch-resistant and UV-resistant, as well as a Chromalight display, a luminous paint that ensures high visibility.

　The design has been updated numerous times without changing much from the original model, and while it emphasizes practicality, it also gives off a sophisticated impression. It also comes in a wide range of color options, making it a diver's watch that can be worn in both business and private settings.

　The lineup includes a model without a date display like the original model, and a "Submariner Date" with a date display. The current model is based on the Oystersteel model, with the date model available in yellow Rolesor, which combines 18K yellow gold and Oystersteel, as well as solid gold models in 18K yellow gold and 18K white gold.

　This non-date model is a basic piece with a black dial and a Cerachrom bezel insert of the same color. The current model, released in 2020, has a larger case diameter of 41mm, up from the previous 40mm, while the lugs have been made slimmer and the bracelet width has been widened, resulting in a redesigned overall balance. It can be said that this model combines the functional beauty of a tool watch with a stylish design.

　This current model of the Submariner Date also features a 41mm Oystersteel case. It features a Cyclops lens at the 3 o'clock position on the crystal, which magnifies the date. The combination of a black dial and a green Cerachrom bezel insert was first introduced in 2003, marking the 50th anniversary of the collection, and has been highly popular ever since.

"Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller"

　When saturation diving, which allowed for deeper and longer dives, became practical in the 1960s, Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in 1967 as a diver's watch designed for this purpose. A key feature of this collection is its helium escape valve. This mechanism automatically expels helium molecules that enter the watch during saturation diving from the case during decompression, preventing the internal helium from expanding and damaging the crystal.

　The watch has been water resistant to 610m since its launch in 1967, and in 1978, in collaboration with the French diving specialist company COMEX, it was improved to 1220m, the same as the current model. The current model has a 43mm case, and in addition to the Oystersteel model, a Rolesor model using 18K yellow gold is also available.

　Released in 2019, this is the collection's first yellow Rolesor model. 18K yellow gold is used for the bezel, crown, and central link of the bracelet, while the hands and indexes are edged in yellow gold. The name "SEA-DWELLER" is also inscribed in yellow gold on the black dial. This watch retains the charm of a tool watch while adding an elegant touch.

"Oyster Perpetual Deepsea"

　The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea, released in 2008, is the current high-end line of Rolex diver's watches. The key to its water resistance is the patented case structure and Ringlock system, which was also released in 2008. This robust structure is made up of three elements: a thick, domed sapphire crystal, a pressure-resistant ring made of nitrogen-alloyed steel, and a case back made of RLX titanium. Its adoption allows for the watch to achieve incredible toughness, with water resistance to a depth of 3900 meters.

　Furthermore, in 2022, the Deepsea Challenge will be released, which can withstand water pressure at a depth of 11,000m, achieving the highest level of water resistance for a wristwatch sold to the general public. The current lineup includes two case variations for the Deepsea: Oystersteel and 18K yellow gold, and the Deepsea Challenge also comes in an RLX titanium case model.

　Launched in 2024, this is the collection's first solid 18K yellow gold model. With a case diameter of 44mm, the weight of the gold creates a commanding presence. The dial and Cerachrom bezel insert are colored in a vibrant blue, creating a striking contrast with the lustrous case. Furthermore, the pressure-resistant rings that make up the ring lock system are made of blue ceramic instead of nitrogen-alloy steel, creating a unified look.

　This model is inspired by the prototype of the same name that accompanied James Cameron on his 2012 Mariana Trench dive. To achieve its extraordinary 11,000m water resistance, it features a massive 50mm diameter, 23.3mm thick case with a 9.5mm thick domed sapphire crystal. Crafted from RLX titanium, it combines exceptional performance with a comfortable fit. From the perspective of the romanticism of over-spec, this is a watch with unparalleled appeal.