Louis Vuitton's legendary pebble shape returns with masterful craftsmanship

2025.10.18

Louis Vuitton's first wristwatch, which shook the watch industry in the late 1980s, has been reborn in modern times. Utilizing the highest level of savoir-faire, it exudes the Maison's spirit even more powerfully.

Louis Vuitton Montre

Louis Vuitton Montre
The Maison's first wristwatch, still highly sought after by collectors, has been reissued with the masterful craftsmanship of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The dial, which retains the original design codes, is crafted from Grand Feu enamel and is equipped with an in-house automatic movement. Caliber LFT MA01.02. 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18K yellow gold case (39mm diameter, 12.2mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 188 pieces. Priced at 8,503,000 yen (tax included).
Edited & Text by Iwao Yoshida
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]


Louis Vuitton's first wristwatch is back

 At the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2025 women's collection runway show held in Paris, artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière accented his ready-to-wear collection with a bold watch design. The model that caught the attention of attendees was the "LV II," which was released in 1988 as the house's first wristwatch collection, along with the "LV I."

 The watches were designed by Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti, who had just completed the major project of converting a Paris train station into the Musée d'Orsay. The unique pebble-shaped cases of the "LV I," equipped with a world time function, were made from 18K white gold or 18K yellow gold. The "LV II," equipped with an alarm function, was made from black or green ceramic. Both models featured a crown at the 12 o'clock position, inspired by pocket watches.

Louis Vuitton Montre

The yellow gold case, which beautifully follows the original pebble shape and lugless design, is entirely handcrafted at La Fabrique des Boitiers, the casemaking department. The wide crown at 12 o'clock is clearly engraved with the Clous de Paris pattern, which not only feels pleasant to the touch but also serves as a focal point against the polished exterior. It is fitted with the same quick-release strap as the original, with the inscription "1 of 188" on the back of the strap to indicate the limited edition.

Louis Vuitton Montre

 Its incredibly avant-garde yet somewhat adorable design immediately captivated discerning shoppers. Nicknamed "Montre" (the American English pronunciation of the French word for wristwatch), it has since become a fervent favorite among collectors, and in recent years has been seen worn by influential trendsetters. Its growing popularity is likely the reason behind its recent appearance on the runway.

 The Montre has been reissued thanks to the combined skills of the artisans at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This is the Louis Vuitton Montre you see here. As Mathieu Hegy, artistic director of the workshop, said, "Reinterpreting a creation means respecting its design and spirit," the 39mm yellow gold case faithfully reproduces the original form. It was handcrafted by the artisans of La Fabrique des Boitiers, the casemaking department. The meticulous polishing ensures that it shines elegantly in the light, creating a beautiful contrast with the crown adorned with a Clous de Paris pattern.

Lv. I

Lv. II

The original "LV I" (top) and "LV II" (bottom) were released in 1988. Despite their avant-garde case forms, they were cleverly given designs that embodied the Maison's travel spirit, such as a crown at 12 o'clock reminiscent of a railroad pocket watch and a railway minute track modeled after railroad tracks. The 40mm diameter "LV I" is equipped with a world time function, while the 37mm diameter "LV II" is equipped with a quartz movement with an alarm function, showing that the watches were also designed with travel in mind in terms of functionality.

 The dial also retains the original graphic code, but in a nod to traditional watchmaking, this timepiece is crafted in Grand Feu enamel. Its luster and shine, along with its warm hue, create a perfect match for the pebble-shaped case. White enamel is one of the most difficult colors to achieve perfectly. The indices and graduations on this timepiece are precisely stamped in enamel, a finish that once again showcases Louis Vuitton's sophisticated enameling techniques.

 The movement has been replaced with the original quartz movement, the in-house automatic LFT MA01.02. While the closed caseback makes it difficult to see, every detail, including the 18K pink gold rotor with a V-shaped notch reminiscent of the Maison's monogram, is said to be finished with the same level of precision and craftsmanship as the exterior.

 While reviving classic timepieces is a trend in the watch industry, Louis Vuitton's first reissue of this model exudes a truly special aura. After nearly 40 years, the iconic 80s pebble-shaped watch has been reborn as a timeless piece with timeless appeal.

Louis Vuitton Montre dial manufacturing process

The dial of the Louis Vuitton Montre is crafted from a new Grand Feu enamel, perfectly complementing the watch's smooth pebble shape. Achieving an opalescent white is extremely challenging, so the process begins with checking for impurities under a microscope. After repeatedly applying paint and firing the base, the finishing process involves firing the piece 10 times at 720°C. The subsequent enamel stamping of the indexes and scales is also finished by firing each color four times at 460°C and four times at 600°C, for a total of eight times.



Contact info: Louis Vuitton Client Service Tel. 0120-00-1854


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