A look back at the iconic Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar from the 1990s. Its perpetual calendar, unique integrated design, and combination of steel and gold make it a stylish and functional timepiece that remains relevant today, decades later.
OMEGA captures the elegance of the 90s
Omega has always been attuned to fashion trends through its Constellation collection. The series' design has evolved over the decades, embodying a more elegant side of the brand. The dominant versions from the 1990s and early 2000s offered a sophisticated blend of style elements from previous generations, while presenting a more casual and chic expression that perfectly matched the sensibilities and tastes of the time.
Quartz (Cal. 1680 / Base ETA 252.511). Stainless steel case (diameter 35.5 mm, thickness approx. 9.0 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar.
(Right) Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1252.30.00
Quartz (Cal. 1680. 11 jewels. SS x 18KYG case (diameter 35.5 mm, thickness approx. 9.0 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar.
Cal. 1680. A perpetual calendar made possible by quartz movement.
One notable model from that time was the Constellation Perpetual Calendar. This watch was equipped with the quartz movement, Caliber 1680, Omega's internal designation for ETA's Caliber 252.511. This movement was a high-quality, highly accurate quartz movement with 11 jewels, thermocompensation, and several convenient additional functions.
First and foremost is the perpetual calendar, which automatically adjusts the date for months with fewer than 31 days, including leap years, and is programmed up until the year 2099. While there are no dedicated windows to display the month or year, there is a way to check them. Simply press and hold the crown for about three seconds, and the numerals in the date window will move to indicate the month. After a few seconds, they will move again to indicate the year in Roman numerals. For example, if "IV" appears, it indicates a leap year.
Independent hour hand adjustment function designed with travelers in mind
The Constellation Perpetual Calendar also boasts another clever feature. For the convenience of travelers, the hour hand can be moved independently by pulling the crown to the first position. This allows the watch to be set to another time zone without compromising accuracy. Furthermore, pulling the crown to the second position stops the second hand, allowing the watch to be set as normal.
The integrated design and "claws" create a strong presence
The Constellation Perpetual Calendar was the largest model in the Constellation collection at the time, excluding the chronographs. While its 35.5mm diameter may seem a little small by modern standards, the impression it gives when worn is different. Thanks to its integrated bracelet construction, the watch exudes presence beyond its simple dimensions.
Particularly eye-catching is the black lacquered bezel with Roman numerals and the four glyphs that seem to grasp it. This is an iconic Constellation design. Omega offered this model in two versions: stainless steel, or stainless steel with a yellow gold bezel, crown, and bracelet links. The latter style, in particular, is a design symbol of the 1990s, and adds a strong contrast to the Constellation design, especially with the brushed bezel.
Delicate dial finish and comfortable fit
Of the Constellation collection at the time, this perpetual calendar had one of the most intricate dials: subtle alternating textures, understated yet distinct, with beautiful changes in appearance depending on the light, all of which add to the pleasure of wearing this Omega.
The bracelet is also captivating. Not only does it perfectly complement the case, but it also conforms perfectly to the wrist. While it doesn't feature a micro-adjustment mechanism, Omega has included small links for precise sizing. The links at the closure are fitted with pushers and feature a gold insert bearing the Omega logo. This has always been made of 18K yellow gold, even on models with a full stainless steel case.
The Constellation that best embodies the "90s" style
Though they were available for more than a decade, few watches embodied the spirit of the 1990s more accurately. The Constellation Perpetual Calendar, in particular, in stainless steel and yellow gold, is a prime example. Even today, these watches offer plenty of appeal, not just in terms of functionality but style as well. They have aged beautifully, and even if they're no longer as "cutting edge" as they were back then, they still have a strong presence.
