Les Collectionneurs, faithfully restored to its original form in Vacheron Constantin's workshops, which have archives spanning more than a century and advanced restoration techniques, is a collection that conveys lost techniques of the watch industry to the present day.
Text by Naoto Watanabe
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
"Les Collectionneurs" sold exclusively at flagship boutiques
(Center) Ref. 6271, a manual-winding model manufactured in 1958, with parallel lugs at the top at 3 and 9 o'clock and a sunburst enamel inlaid dial. Cal. 9'''-1001. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours. 18KPG case (31mm diameter).
(Right) Ref. 4642, a manual-wound model manufactured in 1953, with a dressy, slim case with the lugs hidden on the back. Caliber 9''-P458/3B. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K yellow gold case (35mm diameter). Prices for all models are available upon request.
Utilizing the brand's know-how, Vacheron Constantin's "Les Collectionneurs" collection consists of vintage watches collected from various sources, restored in the atelier, and sold exclusively at the flagship boutique with a certificate of authenticity and a two-year warranty. The strength of this collection is its restoration, which aims to restore the watches to as original a condition as possible, incorporating parts from the same era as the one being restored, taken from the vast repair parts collection stored by the maison, and remanufacturing parts that are no longer in stock using original techniques. As a result, the lineup includes many watches with unique vintage features not found in modern watches. The Ref. 6271 (center photo) with its enamel inlaid dial is one such example.
At first glance, this piece appears to be a regular sunray dial, but what is noteworthy are the printed logos, scales, and other markings. In typical modern watches, the printing design is applied to an engraved metal plate, then transferred to a hemispherical pad such as silicone, which is then pressed onto a hairline-finished or lacquered dial to create the print. In contrast, enamel inlaid dials from the 1960s and earlier were first hand-engraved into a silver base, with enamel then poured into the fine grooves and baked at approximately 900°C. Any impurities floating on the surface are then scraped off, and the dial is then given a grained finish and polished before being covered with lacquer, a highly elaborate manufacturing process.
As a result, the dial has a unique appearance, with the lacquer raised only where the printing is sunk into the metal, but there are very few examples that have remained in perfect condition to this day. Les Collectionneurs, which allows you to enjoy enamel inlaid dials in a condition close to the time of manufacture, is an extremely valuable collection for vintage enthusiasts.
