A meeting between vintage machine tools and modern watchmakers. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud's ambition to preserve traditional watchmaking techniques for future generations is a bonfire that illuminates the future of the watch industry.
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud's ambition to preserve traditional techniques for future generations
This watch commemorates the brand's 10th anniversary. Beneath the 18KWG offset dial is a fascinating movement featuring traditional mechanisms developed for the pursuit of high precision, including a fusee-chain, bimetallic balance, and a barrel with a ratchet mechanism. The bridge, visible through the caseback, is engraved with a quote from Louis Berthoud, Ferdinand Berthoud's apprentice and nephew: "Dedicated to the great teacher, time." Manual-winding (Cal. FB-BTC.FC). 37 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 50 hours. 18KWG case (44.3mm diameter, 13mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 11 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, named after a Swiss watchmaker active in Paris in the 18th century, is a rare company that continues to produce traditional watches even in this age of technological innovation. Its new model, the "Naissance d'Hune Montres 3," is the third in the "Watch Birth Project," which began in 2009 and transcends brand boundaries. The inspiration for the watch came from the astronomical pocket watch "No. 3" created by watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud.
This watch, created entirely by hand in a workshop equipped with traditional tools and machine tools, is equipped with two mechanisms reminiscent of a high-precision machine, as symbolized by its long seconds hand. One of these is the fusee and chain mechanism, visible at 6 o'clock. This is a type of constant-force mechanism that keeps constant the torque that fluctuates depending on the winding state of the mainspring. A tiny chain wrapped around a conical part paired with the barrel gradually unwinds, offsetting torque fluctuations.
The other mechanism is the Guillaume-type temperature-compensated bimetallic balance, supported by an elegant arched bridge. Metals expand and contract with temperature changes, and this property, especially in the hairspring and balance wheel, has a significant impact on the accuracy of a watch. To mitigate this, this model uses a balance wheel that combines brass, which has a high coefficient of expansion, with invar, which has a low coefficient of expansion. At low temperatures, when the hairspring contracts, the balance wheel opens, and at high temperatures, the balance wheel operates in the opposite way, keeping the vibration of the entire balance wheel constant.
Not only the mechanism but also the hand-finished work is a must-see. Furthermore, the entire production process of this watch has been documented. This watch also plays an important role in passing on to future generations the traditional watchmaking techniques that are being lost.
