In 2025, Bell & Ross added a smaller 36mm diameter model to its BR-05 collection. Journalist Shigeru Sugawara, who has been covering the watch industry since the 1990s and has been keeping a close eye on the brand, reviews this latest model. Not only does the new case size feel great on the wrist, but the charm of the ice blue dial, which Sugawara, a jewelry journalist, likens to an aquamarine, will make you want to own this watch.
Photographs & Text by Shigeru Sugawara
[Article published on January 21, 2025]
Bell & Ross is a brand that I have been paying attention to since the 1990s.
Bell & Ross is one brand that has always been in the spotlight since the 1990s. Upon further investigation, I discovered that it was founded in 1994, meaning it has been around for over 30 years and has long since moved beyond the realm of an up-and-coming brand. Even today, the company, headquartered in Paris, France, continues to produce Swiss-made luxury watches, run by the duo of Carlos Rosillo and Bruno Bellamich, whose namesake Bell & Ross is based.
To sum up the appeal of Bell & Ross in one word, it would be its good taste. While showcasing designs and functionality inspired by aviation instruments and watches with military origins, its greatest feature as a French brand is its "esprit," which may sound like a cliché. It's also wonderful how the brand consistently maintains originality through consistent design and systematic development, as expressed in the square-shaped "BR" series of models. I believe that Bell & Ross is a brand that exudes refined taste and calculation.
The size you've been waiting for
To truly experience the sophistication of Bell & Ross, I wore the BR-05 36mm Ice Blue Steel. Launched at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year and subsequently launched in Japan, this latest model is a downsized version of the 40mm BR-05, now fitted with an ice blue dial at 36mm. The trendy, genderless size and refreshing blue color are particularly striking.
Automatic movement (BR-CAL.329). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 36mm, thickness 8.5mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 649,000 yen (tax included).
The "BR-05" series, which combines a sporty design with an urban lifestyle, is one I've previously tried out, including a 41mm GMT model and a 40mm three-hand model during an interview. However, even though the rounded, square case looked comfortable to wear, they felt a little oversized to me. Personally, a 40mm diameter is the limit for a round case, so to be honest, I remember thinking that it would be a bit difficult to wear them on a daily basis.
However, the new model, the BR-05, is a small and slim design measuring just 36mm in height and width and 8.5mm thick, ideal for everyday wear. I'm sure many Bell & Ross enthusiasts, both men and women, have been waiting for this size. Even with the 40mm case trimmed by 4mm on the top, bottom, and sides, it still has almost the same presence as the 40mm model, and its exquisite size—not too big, not too small—is truly wonderful. I wore it full-time from morning to night for two days, plus a half-day outing for wrist shots, and it's become such a comfortable fit that I can't put it down.
The integrated bracelet provides an exceptional fit. It lacks the usual lugs, and the steeply angled case ends seamlessly connect with the bracelet links, ensuring the watch and bracelet hug the wrist securely. The bracelet links that extend from the slim case are also thin, fitting snugly against the wrist without feeling oppressive. I believe the thinness also contributes to the overall lightness of the watch. Personally, I don't like thick, heavy bracelets or bracelets that make a bold statement, so this bracelet on the 36mm model is another plus point. As for the overall aesthetic of the case, bezel, and bracelet, the effective combination of satin and polished finishes truly captures the essence of a luxury sports watch. It's truly rewarding to be able to achieve this at a price in the ¥60 range.
Aquamarine-inspired dial
And what's most captivating is the ice blue dial. The ice blue, which matches the color and texture of the stainless steel, has a special quality to it, and some enthusiasts will exclaim, "This is what I've been waiting for." I'm one of them. The glossy sunray-finished dial adds a metallic sheen to the ice blue depending on the light, revealing a variety of expressions as blue, gray, and silver appear and disappear. I tried observing this appearance in several different situations. Outdoors on a sunny day, the shine and effect of the sunray finish are further accentuated, while even under indoor lighting, the brilliance intertwines with the calm blue. The transparency and changing blue hues reminded me of aquamarine, a gemstone I love.
The ice blue dial also offers excellent legibility, a key principle for Bell & Ross. The white applied numerals, indexes, and hands, coated with LumiNova® X1, are easy to read in natural light, contrasting sharply with the background without being lost in the ice blue. The LumiNova® X1 also takes on a green hue in the dark, effectively fulfilling its luminous function. Another thing to note is that this 36mm model features only three central hands and no date display, making it the simplest and most minimal dial design in the collection. This is undoubtedly another factor that contributes to its ease of reading.
Ice blue as a "talisman"
The watch's automatic caliber BR-CAL.329 movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 54 hours, but I didn't measure its actual duration or daily rate of movement. The case isn't see-through, so the movement isn't visible. But what's more important about this watch is enjoying its ice-blue dial. However, I felt like something wasn't quite there, just describing it as stylish and chic. As I mentioned earlier, this dial reminded me of aquamarine, which apparently represents "happiness and composure to calm the mind, courage to face challenges, and intelligence to clarify thoughts." So, before returning it, I began to imagine it might be a good talisman to wear on the wrist.
Shigeru Sugawara's profile
Born in 1954. Watch journalist. In the 1980s, he covered France and Italy for fashion and jewelry magazines. Since the 1990s, he has focused on watches, covering the annual watch fair held in Switzerland for over 25 years. He has written and published numerous articles in watch magazines such as "Chronos Japan" and general magazines. He also translates books on watches.
