[Watches of the Future] Hodinkee Japan Editor-in-Chief Masaru Sekiguchi talks about the existence of the Cartier Tank

The luxury watch market has matured significantly over the past decade. The driving force behind this has been the huge boom in luxury sports watches that began around 2015. Following this qualitative expansion, discerning watch enthusiasts are now shifting their interest from fashion to timepieces that will stand the test of time. So what kind of watches could become the horological heritage of the future? Special contributions by renowned journalists and interviews with experts shed light on the qualities of masterpieces that connect the past and the future.

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The Tank is the only watch that both men and women can name.

When I was thinking about the theme of "Watch Heritage," I first had a hard time coming up with the criteria, but I decided to choose a watch that, even when viewed from afar, would bring to mind a specific model name for as many people as possible, regardless of its variations. The first watch that came to mind was the Cartier Tank.

　In my personal experience, the Tank is the watch that is most often mentioned by both men and women (even setting aside personal bias). Its widespread popularity has led to numerous variations, allowing people to choose their favorite model from a wide range of options. This was made possible by the Tank Normale, the ancestor of all Tanks and the prototype for many designs. I consider the Tank Normale, revived in 1973, to be a horological legacy today, and I'd like to explain why it is a legacy from my personal perspective.

　The original Tank was conceived in 1917 and released in 19. Its origins date back to 16, when media coverage of the Renault FT-17 tank, first deployed by the British Army in combat at the Battle of the Somme, inspired Louis Cartier, then in charge of Cartier watch design, to create a watch bearing the name "Tank." The watch's distinctive unity from the case to the strap attachment, with its "blancard" (French for "stretcher") shape on the side of the case and its tip also serving as the attachment point for the strap, elevated it to a one-of-a-kind watch.

　A quick count reveals that there are more than 20 different Tank watches, most of which incorporate ingenious design techniques, such as extending the straight lines of the original blankard, thickening or thinning them, or even rounding them. From the Tank Cintrée, which elongates and curves the blankard, to the Tank Louis Cartier (hereafter referred to as Tank LC), a rectangular design with rounded edges, to the Tank Allongée and Tank Chinoise, the Tank played a major role as a canvas for Louis Cartier's creativity, and it already possessed the primitive design that made this possible. Six Tank Normale watches were produced in 1999, available in three variations: platinum, gold, and a platinum and gold combination. Three of these featured Roman numerals, two italic Arabic numerals, and one upright Arabic numerals. A similar jewelry watch was reportedly sold just a few days before the Tank's release. While the others were equipped with 9-ligne movements, this one was slightly smaller, measuring 8-ligne. Its rectangular shape and diamond-set blankards demonstrate the Tank's design's relevance in a variety of shapes and sizes, and even hint at the fact that, even in the early days of wristwatches, it was aimed at women as a potential customer.

　In today's world, if one were to choose a Cartier heritage watch, many would point to creations such as the "Crush" and "Pebble Shape" produced by Cartier London in the 60s. While it's true that these watches have rapidly risen in value, especially at auctions, I believe the results would have been different if such uniquely designed watches had been produced by anyone other than Cartier. In other words, it's precisely because the maison is also highly regarded as a watchmaker that its ability to create original models is so highly regarded. In that sense, it's undoubtedly the Tank that laid the foundation for the brand.

　The watch I'm referring to today is the Tank Normale from the Louis Cartier collection, produced from 1973 to 84. It was the first reproduction of the original after Cartier overcame its sale from the founding family and financial difficulties, and it might have been lost forever if the company had not sought a return to its roots at the time. In fact, in the 60s, Cartier London was preoccupied with experimental, if more jeweler-like, models like the Crush and Maxi Oval, in a completely different context from the Tank. Furthermore, if the only product created by the new management team led by Joseph Canouil and Robert Hoch in 73 was Les Musts de Cartier... I believe the Tank Normale from the 70s was key in conveying the value of Cartier watches as their origins to the present day.

　Meanwhile, in terms of a watch heritage we want to preserve for the future, I would like to once again mention the ever-changing Tank. If I had to choose one, it would be the Tank Louis Cartier Mini, revived this year. This model features a simple dial design that dispenses with the iconic Chemin de Fer pattern. Naturally, it was primarily released for women. However, it's not simply a scaled-down version of the Tank LC; it features a thicker blank card compared to other Tank LC models. It accounts for 34% of the case width, while the Tank LC models in the Small and Large models are around 27%, demonstrating a deliberate increase in volume. Despite being a quartz movement, it features a bold crown, giving it a design that's more than just feminine. A similar model was produced in the 1990s (with a case length roughly the same but 1mm narrower), but this is the first update in about 15 years. Being able to adapt the shape to the times without changing the design language is a great asset, and Cartier's decision to release the Tank LC of this size now, while toning down the so-called "femininity," is likely due to its philosophy of being "unique yet universal."

　This trend likely owes much to the global popularity of the bangle-style "Baignoire" watch, released last year, among men, but Cartier isn't ignoring the trend of men wearing daringly small watches. In an interview with Cyril Vigneron in April of this year, before he announced his retirement as CEO, he said, "Concepts of masculinity and femininity are gradually becoming more ubiquitous. While emphasizing the importance of not being confined to these boundaries, we are crafting our products into a universal Cartier product." Then, when I saw the Tank LC Mini, I was struck by the thought. While the "Cartier Privé" line, which attracts attention every year, is clearly aimed at watch enthusiasts, the luxurious jewelry watches of "Cartier Libre" are likely intended for women. However, I believe that a lineup that lies somewhere in between, offering a broad selection of classic watches, is crucial. I believe that watch culture will only grow if many users can freely choose their favorite watch from a selection of currently available models. In that sense, the Tank LC Mini is not simply a small watch developed for women, but a Tank for everyone who has not fit in before. I would like to leave this watch, which opens its doors to people other than my current customers, as a legacy for the future.