The luxury watch market has matured significantly over the past decade. The driving force behind this has been the huge boom in luxury sports watches that began around 2015. Following this qualitative expansion, discerning watch enthusiasts are now shifting their interest from fashion to timepieces that will stand the test of time. So what kind of watches could become the horological heritage of the future? Special contributions by renowned journalists and interviews with experts shed light on the qualities of masterpieces that connect the past and the future.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan), Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
What are the fine details found in Parmigiani Fleurier?
Since Guido Terreni took over as CEO in 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier has begun to emphasize a more minimalist product image. However, this change in direction has not diminished in the slightest the company's unique character that has been cultivated since its founding; in fact, it seems to have become even stronger. What is the source of this "uniqueness" that remains undiluted even through minimalism? Let's consider this in detail.
What kind of watch will remain in the future? The answer revealed by Parmigiani Fleurier's unique style
When the top brass changes, so do the watches. This is perhaps one of the unwritten rules, or rather, dilemmas, of the modern luxury watch business. Particularly for brands that belong to large groups, branding changes subtly with each new CEO. If things go well, that's fine, but if the expected results aren't achieved, this cycle repeats itself in short order. And so, the conceptual brand image that many watch enthusiasts hold dear is gradually eroded...
Parmigiani Fleurier is another brand that only recently welcomed a new CEO in January 2021, but it is a rare example of a brand that has succeeded in significantly increasing its performance while maintaining its traditional brand image. Under Guido Terreni's direction, the product image has become more minimalist, but the Parmigiani Fleurier identity that has existed since the company's founding has not been lost in the slightest. I would like to explain the reasons for this from the perspective of the details.
This new model is a reinterpretation of the brand's first work, "Trick." It has been reborn as a dress watch aiming for a luxurious feel without being flashy. The new movement, designed exclusively for manual winding, has a gold baseplate and bridges. Manual winding (Cal. PF780). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 8.8mm).
The Sandoz Family Foundation, which owns Parmigiani Fleurier, has under its umbrella the various companies that manufacture all parts related to watchmaking: Les Artisans Boitiers, which manufactures cases; Cadrans et Abiages, which produces dials; Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, which designs and manufactures movements; and micro-parts manufacturers Atokalpa (gears and pinions) and Erwin (mainly lathe processing). Since 2005, the company has been able to develop in-house even key parts such as balance wheels, escapement parts, and hairsprings.
By the early 2000s, these affiliated companies had almost completely transformed Parmigiani into a manufacture, but what was extraordinary about Guido Terreni was that he further accentuated the exquisite finishing techniques that the in-house workshops were so proud of by promoting minimalist design.The simplicity of today's Parmigiani Fleurier makes the details stand out even more.
The Tonda PF, with its no-date design, embodies a more refined minimalism. To match the plain dial design, this two-hand model eliminates the central seconds hand. The subtle neutral tones accentuate the rice-ear-shaped guilloching. Automatic winding (Cal. PF703). 29 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel and platinum case (40mm diameter, 7.8mm thick).
The first thing to note is the dial. Parmigiani Fleurier has traditionally eschewed "conventional finishes" such as radial satin underlays and soleil-pattern guilloché, but since Terreni took over, they have been almost exclusively limited to matte grained finishes, rice-ear-shaped grain d'orge decorations, and the round triangular decoration used on sports models. The new "Tric" in particular features a "chevet" dial with a tapered omega-shaped cross section, which has been given a new finish called hand-graining, and what is surprising is how much more intricate this nuance is. Finely crushed sea salt, crystal of tartar, silver, etc. are dissolved in demineralized water and polished with a brush, resulting in a finer texture than the traditional white-grained finish.
Another topic regarding dials is color. The strong colors of previous models, such as silver and black, have faded away, and subtle neutral colors are now used more frequently, inspired by Le Corbusier's "Architectural Polychromy" color assortment. This is a recipe that has been used since the Tonda PF, so it's safe to say that this change was brought about by Terreni. Gray Celadon and Golden Sienna are both very subtle neutral colors. Terreni cites the advantage that they "go with any clothing color," and it's true that the colors chosen by Parmigiani Fleurier in recent years all blend beautifully with each other.
The Tonda PF Skeleton now comes in a platinum case. The movement, with its intricately beveled edges, remains unchanged, but the bridges visible from the dial side are all coated in Milanese blue. Automatic movement (Cal. PF777). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 60 hours. Platinum case (40mm diameter, 8.5mm thick).
Meanwhile, a closer look at the case design reveals a Parmigiani Fleurier signature. The most obvious example is the Tonda PF-style case. The lugs of the Tonda PF have a different finish on the inside and outside, separated by a single step. The inside has a vertical satin finish, while the outside is polished. This gives the watch a classic longhorn appearance from the front, but when worn on the wrist, it becomes clear that they are modern short lugs. Short lugs in case design are a recent trend that has become popular along with the increased rigidity of bracelets, so Parmigiani Fleurier watches are undoubtedly conscious of modern proportions. This becomes even clearer when looking at the new model, which dispenses with any "gimmicks" in the finishing. While the lugs may appear shorter due to this trick, the balance between case diameter and lug length is actually not that significantly different from the Tonda PF.
The bezel's mortage decoration, which has come to be recognized as an icon of Parmigiani Fleurier, is still in good condition. I've heard that for a while after the company was founded, it was hand-finished by an old craftsman living near Fleurier, but a new method must have been established. Judging from the volume, it is now undoubtedly machine-finished, but the pressing process, which does not rely on cutting but presses a gear-shaped roller stamp, has not changed at all.
A petite complication released in 2022. The rattrapante hand, which displays the second time zone, instantly jumps to the home time position with the pusher. In this case, rattrapante means "catch up." Automatic winding (Cal. PF051). 31 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel and platinum case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.7mm).
There are plenty of other brands that boast hands that don't get talked about much, but Parmigiani Fleurier's hands are also above average. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, in particular, feature two hands that perfectly align, a feeling that only those who use them can truly appreciate.
Along with the change in design (i.e., minimalism), the image of Parmigiani Fleurier watches has evolved into something much more sophisticated. However, when it comes to the detail work that supports their essence, it can be said that they remain true to the traditional Parmigiani Fleurier style. The goal that this leads to is an immense sense of satisfaction that only the user can obtain. Rather than choosing a watch to show off to others, you choose a watch to fulfill yourself. To borrow Tereni's words, this would be "private luxury." What is a watch that will remain in the future? I can't help but feel that one of the answers is encapsulated in these words.
