The luxury watch market has matured significantly over the past decade. The driving force behind this has been the huge boom in luxury sports watches that began around 2015. Following this qualitative expansion, discerning watch enthusiasts are now shifting their interest from fashion to timepieces that will stand the test of time. So what kind of watches could become the horological heritage of the future? Special contributions by renowned journalists and interviews with experts shed light on the qualities of masterpieces that connect the past and the future.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Text by Bhanu Chopra
Text by Bhanu Chopra
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan), Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Bhanu Chopra talks about "IWC's Ingenieur, Then and Now"
In the dynamic world of watchmaking, there are timeless icons of innovative and exceptional design: the IWC Ingenieur SL, designed by the visionary Gérald Genta in the 1970s, is one of the greatest masterpieces in watchmaking history.
Editor-in-Chief of Revolution USA. Previously worked as a senior editor at WatchUSeek and a freelance writer for online watch media outlets such as Quill & Pad. He has many fans who appreciate his vast knowledge and straightforward writing style. He also contributed to the lead feature in the 100th issue of Chronos Japan.
The early Ingenieur models, Ref. 666 and 866, released in the 1950s, featured modest round cases, in stark contrast to their technical superiority as the first truly antimagnetic consumer wristwatches. In 1969, as the quartz revolution was creating a backlash against mechanical watches, IWC commissioned Gérald Genta to breathe new life into the Ingenieur.
In 1974, the visionary designer submitted sketches proposing a striking watch with a stainless steel bracelet and patterned dial, featuring a five-recessed screw-down bezel that strongly asserted its authenticity as a Genta creation.
In 1976, IWC unveiled the Ingenieur SL (Ref. 1832) to the world. Nicknamed "Jumbo" for its large 40mm case, this timepiece quickly attracted attention. Equipped with the automatic caliber 8541, a rubber buffer for optimal shock resistance, and a soft-iron inner case that protected the movement from magnetic fields of up to 8 A/m, the Ingenieur SL was a true watchmaking heavyweight.
Priced at 2000 Swiss francs at the time of its release, the Ingenieur SL embodied Genta's vision of a robust yet elegant steel sports watch. Its strong aesthetic codes, including the iconic screw-on bezel, uniquely patterned dial, and integrated H-link bracelet, have cemented it as one of Gérald Genta's most important creations.
The enduring appeal of the Ingenieur SL lies in its strong aesthetic codes, which are Gérald Genta's artistic signature. Despite its innovative design language and technical capabilities, the Ingenieur SL initially struggled to achieve commercial success. Its size and weight, which were excessive by modern standards, did not resonate with an audience that preferred slimmer quartz watches.
Nicknamed the "Jumbo," this watch was designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1976. The Caliber 8541 it contained was 5.9mm thick, and it had to be housed in an inner case to ensure anti-magnetic properties, making it an unavoidable thick watch. However, Genta, who excelled in designing thin watches, created a curved middle case that made the watch appear less thick.
As a result, only around 1000 examples were sold between 1976 and 1983. However, the Ingenieur SL's fortunes underwent a remarkable change in the 1990s, when collectors began to appreciate its unique aesthetic and historical significance. Today, the Jumbo is one of the most coveted timepieces in IWC's illustrious history and a symbol of Genta's visionary design.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 pays homage to the original Ingenieur SL while incorporating modern elements to create a watch that is relevant today. During Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr said, "We were inspired by the Jumbo watch created by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, creating ergonomic case proportions. We have applied a high level of finishing to every detail and spent a lot of time and effort on the new automatic movement."
The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a versatile luxury sports watch for the 21st century. Its 40mm case diameter is an ideal size, breaking away from the trend of oversized sports watches that has dominated the market in recent years. With a lug-to-lug distance of 45.7mm from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, its ergonomic design ensures an excellent fit for a wide range of wrist sizes. The case, bezel, and bracelet are meticulously finished, combining polished and satin finishes.
One of the most noticeable changes from the Ingenieur SL is the incorporation of functional polygonal screws on the bezel. Five screws secure the bezel to the case, ensuring it remains in place at all times while fulfilling a technical function. Additionally, the dial features a distinctive grid pattern, embossed into a soft iron blank before being galvanized, creating a balance with the sculptural case design. The date display at 3 o'clock adds a practical element to the sports watch design.
The new Ingenieur is a return to Genta design. The Val Fleurier-based Cal. 32111 is encased in a soft iron inner case, providing practical anti-magnetic performance. Automatic (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40 mm, thickness 10.7 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Exclusively available at boutiques. (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
Christian Knoop, head of design at IWC, explains the dial design as follows:
"Like the Reference 1832, the dial of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 features what we now call a grid. This pattern, made up of lines offset by 90 degrees from one another, is engraved on a soft iron blank before it is galvanised. It covers the entire inside of the dial, while the outside, around the chapter ring, remains smooth. We have also meticulously fine-tuned the proportions of the IWC logo, its position on the dial and its relationship to the grid to within thousandths of a millimetre. Finally, the applied indexes are coated with luminescent material to ensure excellent legibility, even at night."
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 features a screw-down crown protected by a crown guard, which prevents the time and date from being accidentally adjusted.
The watch is powered by the Cal. 32111 movement, which features automatic winding via the Magic Click system. Another feature that has been a long-standing feature of the Ingenieur is the soft iron inner case, which effectively protects the movement's precision from the effects of magnetic fields. Water resistance of 100m is sufficient, making it suitable for a wide range of uses as a sports watch.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 comes in four variations: three with stainless steel cases and different dial colors, and one with a grade 5 titanium case. The steel models have black, silver, and aqua blue dials and are presented on a stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly folding clasp. The grade 5 titanium model features a gray dial with black hands and applied indices and a titanium bracelet with a butterfly folding clasp.
IWC built up a wealth of expertise with titanium in the 1980s and 1990s—think back to the GST series (gold, steel, titanium)—and the new Ingenieur titanium case and bracelet are available in sandblasted, satin-brushed, and polished finishes.
