The luxury watch market has matured significantly over the past decade. The driving force behind this has been the huge boom in luxury sports watches that began around 2015. Following this qualitative expansion, discerning watch enthusiasts are now shifting their interest from fashion to timepieces that will stand the test of time. So what kind of watches could become the horological heritage of the future? Special contributions by renowned journalists and interviews with experts shed light on the qualities of masterpieces that connect the past and the future.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Carson Chan: Text
Text by Carson Chan
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan), Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Carson Chan on "Timeless, Iconic, and Innovative Watch Design"
Introduced in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 is a timeless classic that set the standard for dress watches. With its minimalist design, clean lines, and perfect proportions, the Calatrava embodies the principles of Bauhaus aesthetics, focusing on form following function. With a modest 30mm case diameter by today's standards, it exudes elegance and refinement, making it suitable for any formal occasion.
Chief Advisor to the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH). After serving as the Hong Kong representative for Bonhams, he became General Manager of Richard Mille's Asia region in 2004. He joined FHH in 14 and has held his current position since 20. He shares his knowledge of watch collecting and the watch industry through various media. His hobbies are diverse, including watches, cars, and cameras.
Reflecting the style and design of the time, the Ref. 96 embodies the elegance and understatement characteristic of the early 20th century. While its 30mm case may seem very small by modern standards, it was a common size for wristwatches of the time, emphasizing discretion and refinement. The Ref. 96 was powered by a manual-winding movement, initially the Caliber 12-120 and later the Caliber 12-400, known for its reliability and precision. The simple dial, adorned with gold applied indexes and dauphine hands, is devoid of unnecessary ornamentation, highlighting the watch's beauty. A small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock adds a touch of vintage charm.
The model's enduring appeal lies in its purity of design and its historical significance as one of Patek Philippe's foundational pieces. The Calatrava Ref. 96 is more than just a watch; it is a symbol of horological excellence and timeless elegance, influencing countless designs over the decades. This watch is a testament to an era when delicacy and refinement were paramount, and its significance and aesthetic purity make it a revered favorite among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
This historic masterpiece set the standard not only for the Calatrava but for all subsequent dress watches. It first appeared in 1932. By integrating the lugs with the case, it differentiated itself from the wristwatches of the time, which had lugs soldered to pocket watches. The case size is small by modern standards at 30mm in diameter, but many watch enthusiasts still consider its proportions to be ideal.
Introduced in 2009, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a modern marvel that redefined the way time is displayed. This revolutionary timepiece features a jumping hour and minute digital display, setting it apart from traditional analog watches. The realization of this complication is a testament to the company's technical expertise and innovation.
The movement housed in a 41.9mm case blends traditional German watchmaking craftsmanship with contemporary design. The beautifully finished Caliber L043.1 can be seen through the case back. The large jumping disc time display, made possible by the constant-force mechanism, combined with the power reserve indicator, make the Zeitwerk both a functional and visually striking watch.
In today's world, with so many digital devices for telling and reading the time, mechanical watches are no longer solely functional. Instead, they have become objects of art and an appreciation for craftsmanship. The Zeitwerk reflects this change and embodies the essence of horological art.
The dial layout, with its oversized numerals and distinctive time bridge, offers excellent legibility and a unique aesthetic that sets it apart from conventional timepieces. ZEITWERK's fusion of innovation, craftsmanship and design is a modern masterpiece that pushes the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. ZEITWERK celebrates the artistry and technical excellence that are symbols of modern fine watchmaking, and will appeal to those who appreciate the intricate beauty and deep craftsmanship behind its creation.
This instantaneous digital watch, first released in 2009, was made possible by the use of a constant force device. An update in 2022 extended the power reserve and added a quick-change date mechanism. Manual winding (Cal. L043.6). 61 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 41.9 mm, thickness 12.2 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
