The luxury watch market has matured significantly over the past decade. The driving force behind this has been the huge boom in luxury sports watches that began around 2015. Following this qualitative expansion, discerning watch enthusiasts are now shifting their interest from fashion to timepieces that will stand the test of time. So what kind of watches could become the horological heritage of the future? Special contributions by renowned journalists and interviews with experts shed light on the qualities of masterpieces that connect the past and the future.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas), Masanori Yoshie, Yu Mitamura
Interview & Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan), Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
The creators of the future of watches: Watch designer Eric Giroud
Eric Giroud is one of the most talented watch designers working today. He founded an architecture firm in 1988 and later expanded into graphic design. He began sketching watch designs in 1997 and opened his own watch design firm in 1998. To date, he counts 37 watch brands as his clients.
When talking about masterpieces, one person is of course essential to mention: Eric Giroud. He is a gifted watch designer who has worked on Harry Winston's Opus and MB&F's Horological Machine. With the widespread use of cutting techniques and the demand for three-dimensionality in watches, Giroud has been involved in a variety of new works as the creator of some of the coolest designs. What does Giroud, who is active at the forefront of design, think about masterpieces?
When good energy is poured into it, it becomes a watch that many people will like.
"I'll be honest. When we start a project, we think we're going to create a masterpiece, but we don't know what the outcome will be. It's interesting when people say, 'This is a masterpiece, this is amazing,' after the watch I designed is on the market. But for me, the most important thing is sitting around a table and working with three professionals."
What does it mean to have three professionals?
"You need three different experts. For example, when designing an MB&F watch, there's the owner Max Büsser, the watchmaker, and me as the designer."
There seems to be a reason why they chose three people.
"It's decided by the sense of the people around the table. But when there are so many people on a project, it becomes disjointed. As a result, some brands end up limiting their creativity to the color of the dial."
Giroud calls this one of the "coolest watches I've ever designed." Released in 2013, this model features six barrels connected by two chains. As a result, it boasts an impressive power reserve of approximately 1000 hours. "It's an interesting watch in terms of functionality, but at the same time, the design is very pure."
To avoid this, Giroud says it's important to keep an open mind, and he again cites the example of Max Büsser.
"I had dinner with Max last night. It was a friendly affair, we discussed the project, and then we had a chat in the corner of the restaurant, including with the watchmaker. We didn't talk about the platform or the history of the watch, but about the small details. That's unusual in the watch industry, but it's very important."
Eric Giroud was originally an architect, but was fascinated by watches and later turned to watch design. Is there a common thread between the two? "In architecture, you first have an idea, and then draw many sketches to realize it. Then you decide the direction of the work and the key points of the design. It's the same with watches. However, when you create a building, you live inside it and see the various elements that make up the space, and when you create a watch, you look at the details from the outside." Giroud says that just like in architecture, light reflection is extremely important in watch design. Changing the design of the bezel will result in different reflections of light.
"I don't usually wear crazy watches," says Giroud, whose favorite model is the Chronometer-Resonance. "One requires energy, the other gives it. It's like the relationship between family and loved ones. It's technically advanced, but also romantic and philosophical."
"The crystal is also important. When I work with Max, we often work on the design of the sapphire crystal crystal. Then we design the watch by cutting it vertically. Then we create the 3D data." Designer Eric Giroud is, so to speak, the poster child for cutting. The 3D shapes that he has pioneered would not have been possible with forging. Has technology changed design?
"That's not a problem. If you're an architect, when you build a house you need to make friends with electricians and other specialists. When I started designing watches, I liked working alone, but I did spend time working with the manufacturing team."
He talks about sharing.
"When starting a project, it's very important to share information and exchange opinions. When the manufacturing team receives the 3D data from the designer and starts working, they can lose contact. On the other hand, when you share information, you become more open-minded. I didn't understand this when I started my career, but now I enjoy working with the people around me."
This is one of the watches that Giroud has listed as "the coolest watch he has designed." The four prongs house the hour and minute display, power reserve display, thermometer, and crown. The image is "a central atrium surrounded by four rooms, with a transparent design that lets in light." This watch truly shows the architect's talent.
Giroud is frank about wanting to create a masterpiece, but not knowing what it will be. So what are the essential elements of good design?
"The first is building a very good relationship with people. For example, when you think of a sports watch, the target age group is diverse. So it's important to spend a long time and do a lot of words and work," he continues.
"The second is to dig deep and make proposals. And, very important to me, to start projects."
Finally, he emphasized the importance of trusting your colleagues while also being critical.
"It's about making sure, 'Does this watch really fit this company? Does it have a blue dial? Other people are using it.' There are thousands of questions to ask when you're working on a project."
A collaboration between Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Giroud. 33 baguette-cut diamonds and three mandarin garnets are connected in a chain that rotates, allowing the time to be read based on the position of the latter. Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (48mm x 56mm, 20mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Reference product.
Giroud calls this attitude cool.
"When someone says they don't like something in a project meeting, try to understand why. Being cool means being very calm and sharing why you have that opinion." So what does he think makes a cool design?
"I think cool design is something that is a little unconventional and goes beyond the box. Something that has a new shape or approach and gives a different impression than others. Cool is different from others, but it doesn't mean looking down on anyone. So something with a unique design doesn't have to be expensive. And to be a cool design, it has to take a different approach than others." Having created so many masterpieces, we asked him to name three of the coolest watches he has worked on.
"The Opus 9 (by Harry Winston), with its diamond-set chain, is a design that was well received by the marketing team. The case of this watch is very unique and the structure is very interesting. The Rebellion is a watch with a power reserve of approximately 1000 hours, and its design is very pure and simple. And the MB&F HM11 has a design that is in line with architecture." Giroud says that he has never approached any brand and said, "I want to work with you," and that being a designer is like winning the lottery. It's surprising that a genius like him would be so modest, but Giroud's comments clearly explain the conditions for a masterpiece.
"By keeping an open mind and maintaining a constructive dialogue, the project has a better chance of success. If good energy is poured into the project, the end result will be a good watch that many people will like."
