Which brand is best for buying your first luxury watch? Writer Shinichi Sato explains his recommendations

This time, we will pick out five popular and talented brands for users who are just starting to become interested in luxury watches, and explain the models recommended by the author. Using this feature as a starting point, we hope you will visit a watch shop or boutique, pick up a variety of models, and consider them.

Writer Shinichi Sato introduces recommended brands and popular models

　For those who are just starting to become interested in luxury watches, the watch market is overflowing with options, and it can be hard to know what to look for. So, this time, I'll be selecting five popular and talented brands and explaining my recommended models.

　My hope is that rather than narrowing your consideration to these five brands and models, you will use my perspective to broaden your horizons to other models from the brands introduced, or even to other brands that specialize in the same genre, and choose the perfect watch for you. I hope that this feature will serve as a springboard for you to visit a watch shop or boutique, pick up a variety of models, and consider them.

Seiko "King Seiko" Ref.SDKA005

　The first watch we'll be looking at is a popular Seiko watch, highly regarded for its technical capabilities. Among them, we've chosen the King Seiko Ref. SDKA005. The reason for choosing this watch is that it matches a wide range of occasions and styles, making it versatile and easy to enjoy, and it also has universal appeal, allowing you to enjoy it even if you purchase a new watch in the future.

　This work is a modern revival of the "King Seiko" line, which was developed as Seiko's luxury line in the 1960s. Looking at this work with this background in mind, you will probably feel that it has a classic yet modern design.

　The basis for this piece is a 1965 model called the "KSK." The KSK is said to have influenced the designs of later Seiko and Grand Seiko models, and this piece strongly embodies Seiko's distinctive style with a modern touch. However, rather than simply recreating the original, the watch combines an edgy case with a matching multi-row bracelet, creating a finish that meets modern needs.

　The movement is the Cal. 6L35, a highly accurate and thin automatic movement, and the finished watch is just 10.7mm thick. The case diameter is 38.6mm, making it a relatively compact size that is sure to be widely accepted.

　This is a highly recommended piece with its timeless design, construction that meets modern needs, and well-balanced silhouette.

Citizen "The Citizen" Ref.AQ4100-57E

　Since the King Seiko was a mechanical watch, the next step is a quartz watch. Taking a look at Citizen, a company known for its advanced solar-powered quartz technology, let's take a look at "The Citizen" Ref. AQ4100-57E. This model is a quartz model equipped with solar-powered Eco-Drive technology, and its appeal lies in its perpetual calendar.

　This perpetual calendar, while only displaying the date, internally manages the month and a four-year cycle to account for leap years. Even in months with fewer than 31 days, such as February and March, the correct date is automatically displayed. Once adjusted, this watch will operate for approximately 1.5 years on a full charge and in power save mode, meaning there's little risk of the watch stopping. Furthermore, this watch is made of Super Titanium with Duratect Platinum, making it lightweight and highly scratch-resistant. Given the above, this watch is highly practical and well-made, making it suitable for a wide range of occasions.

　The appeal of The Citizen's solar-powered Eco-Drive models also lies in their dials, and in this model, the graceful flapping of an eagle's wings is expressed with a metallic paint finish. Because solar power generation requires light to pass through the solar cell, there are limitations on the materials and paint methods for the dial itself, but Citizen has taken a variety of approaches to creating attractive dials while maintaining power generation efficiency. In addition to painted polycarbonate like this model, dials made with washi paper are a representative example of The Citizen's dials. They are gaining popularity for their design, which incorporates the soft texture unique to washi paper and reflects Japanese aesthetic sensibilities.

　Another design feature worth noting is the eagle emblem at 6 o'clock. This design is reminiscent of the Chronomaster, which was developed as Citizen's luxury line in the 1960s (around the same time as the King Seiko KSK). It's interesting to note that traces of this line can also be seen in the case shape and dial design. This makes this a model that allows you to experience the long-standing tradition of Citizen.

Tudor Black Bay 58, Ref. M79030N-0001

　The previous two models were selected for business and formal occasions, but if you're looking for something a little sportier, like a diver's watch, you might want to consider Tudor. Among the many attractive models, we'll be introducing the Black Bay 58.

　The Black Bay 58 is a model that pays homage to the Ref. 7924, nicknamed the "Big Crown," which was released in 1958. Its 39mm case, slightly more compact than the standard for modern men's models, its silhouette without a crown guard, the gold-colored scale markings, and the reproduction of the rivet-type bracelet all evoke the model of that time.

　In my opinion, when choosing a mid-range watch, Tudor should be on your list, as it offers a high level of satisfaction and perfection down to the smallest detail. Not only are the cases and dials well-finished, but the bezels are easy to operate, and the bracelets, including the clasp, are of a high level of perfection. Furthermore, the Cal. MT5402 movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and is a COSC-certified chronometer, making it flawless in every respect.

　It's worth noting that this watch isn't the only one that excels, but that all of Tudor's products, including the 43mm Black Bay 68, the 41mm Black Bay, this 39mm watch, the 37mm Black Bay 54, the high-spec Pelagos, and the Black Bay GMT with GMT function, are all highly refined. With a wide variety of sizes and functions, you're sure to find one that suits you.

Longines "Longines Spirit Zulu Time" Ref. L3.802.4.63.6

　If you prefer a classic style, Longines is a good choice. We'd like to introduce the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. This is a newly designed model that incorporates the stories and details of past masterpieces. It could be said to have a neo-vintage feel, which has become a genre in recent years.

　The function and name of this watch are derived from Longines' first wristwatch with a second time zone, produced in 1925. The sleek ceramic bezel insert with 24-hour display adds a touch of contemporary appeal.

　The second time zone display is used as a reference time in the aviation industry, which operates across time zones, and is aligned with Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). UTC is equal to the time at 0 degrees longitude, and this time zone is represented by the letter "Z." Since the phonetic code for Z (a rule that defines a word corresponding to the alphabet to avoid miscommunication, like the classic "Alpha Bravo") is "Zulu," this reference time is called "Zulu Time," and is incorporated into the model name of this watch.

　The anthracite gray dial has a more subdued impression than black, and the gold-colored Arabic numerals, intricate scale, and desaturated green bezel insert combine to create a chic finish with a vintage feel. The indices are three-dimensional and luxurious, and the fact that they don't lean too heavily toward military or tool watch aesthetics is a testament to Longines' expertise. The case diameter is 39mm, giving it a modern yet well-presented size.

Hamilton "Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono" Ref. H76409540

　When people first become interested in luxury watches, mechanical chronograph models may be on their list of options. Hamilton is one brand that offers a lineup of attractive chronographs. Among them, we will introduce the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono, which has an appealing military feel.

　Hamilton is a brand with a history of supplying military forces around the world. The Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono is a chronograph model based on a model delivered to the Royal Air Force in the 1970s. Its iconic design, featuring a "two-eye" dial with a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock and a small seconds hand at 9 o'clock, and an asymmetrical case created by a crown guard, strongly retains a classic aesthetic.

　Another noteworthy feature is the movement, Cal. H-51-Si. This movement is hand-wound like the original model, allowing you to enjoy the vintage-like experience of winding it by hand every day. Even though it's "vintage-like," it has a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, so there's no need to worry about it stopping if you don't wind it every day. It also uses a silicon balance spring, and its anti-magnetic properties are modern, providing peace of mind in practical terms.

　The model I'm introducing is the navy dial model. I would definitely choose the black dial model, which is closer to the original, but that might have a stronger military feel. This navy dial model successfully incorporates a modern touch into a classic design, making it a sporty chronograph model that can be incorporated into a variety of fashions.