In 2025, Rolex will be using a Cerachrom dial for the brand's first GMT-Master II. The expansion of high-performance ceramic, previously used only for bezels, to the dial, the core of the watch, marks a "turning point in material technology" that goes beyond a change in color or finish. Perhaps Rolex is presenting a quiet innovation to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master in the unexpected setting of a white gold model with a left-handed crown? Daniela Push, editor-in-chief of the German edition of WatchTime, explains.
Text by Daniela Pusch
[Article published on January 30, 2025]
Is the new GMT-Master II another historic achievement for Rolex?
Behind the scenes of the Land-Dweller, a major event that shook the watch world, Rolex was actually demonstrating a groundbreaking step in the field of materials research in watchmaking: the Cerachrom dial. Introduced as a variation of the GMT-Master II, which featured a case and bracelet made of solid 18K white gold, this change was more than just a design change.
As anyone who knows Rolex knows, the company's innovations are never flashy, but always with a deeper purpose. The new ref. 126729VTNR is Rolex's first foray into high-performance ceramic dials.
Rolex has accumulated experience and technology in using Cerachrom as a bezel material, and this is an attempt to extend that to the dial, the ``face'' of the watch.
The dial is crafted from the same glossy green Cerachrom material as the daytime side of the green and black two-tone bezel, a subtle yet clear aesthetic statement about the use of materials and visual unity.
A more luxurious left-handed crown model
The GMT-Master II has always been a traveler's watch: functional, robust, and reliable, it has the essence of a tool watch, but it also exudes a certain sophistication.
The Ref. 126729VTNR, released in 2025, features a Cerachrom dial and a left-handed crown. It inherits the lineage of the left-handed crown model released in 2022, but elevates its expression to a more luxurious level.
The 40mm Oyster Monobloc case is crafted from solid 18K white gold. The surface is delicately finished with a mix of satin and polished finishes. As a result, the three-dimensional effect created by the reflection of light and the texture unique to precious metals are prominently displayed in this model.
The case back is screwed down, and behind it is the Rolex in-house movement, Caliber 3285. It has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and is equipped with Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement and a blue Parachrom hairspring with excellent anti-magnetic properties.
Caliber 3285 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, achieving a precision of -2 to +2 seconds per day when the movement is mounted in the case, a figure that meets the criteria for the "Superlative Chronometer" that Rolex independently redefined in 2015.
In keeping with the tradition of the GMT-Master II, this watch can simultaneously display two time zones: the local time indicated by the hour, minute, and second hands, and the other by the 24-hour hand (the triangular GMT hand) and the bidirectional rotating bezel.
The bezel features a green and black Cerachrom 24-hour scale insert, the engraved area of which is coated with platinum by physical vapor deposition (PVD), and the knurling around the outer periphery provides a comfortable grip for improved operability.
A dial that looks like stone but is high-tech
The manufacturing process is reminiscent of that used for natural stone dials. First, a precisely cut Cerachrom disc is attached to a metal base plate, and then the white gold indices are applied onto it. These indices are filled with Chromalight, a luminous material that glows blue. The hour, minute, and second hands are also made of white gold and are similarly luminous.
What is particularly noteworthy is that the tone and texture of the dial and bezel are perfectly matched. Although they are completely separate parts, they appear to be one continuous design. Isn't this a great design success?
Bracelet and clasp all made of gold
This model is fitted with an 18K white gold Oyster bracelet.
The bracelet is fitted with a highly secure Oysterlock folding clasp. The three-link structure is robust yet comfortable on the wrist, and the entire bracelet exudes the weight and high-quality feel that is characteristic of precious metals.
Furthermore, the Easylink extension mechanism integrated into the links allows the bracelet to be extended by approximately 5 mm – a small adjustment that is an important detail in determining everyday wearing comfort.
The GMT-Master II Ref. 126729VTNR marks the beginning of Rolex's saga of incorporating new materials into the dial. Ceramic, previously only used as a decorative element on the bezel, now takes center stage beneath a sapphire crystal.
Automatic winding (Cal. 3285). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KWG case (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 7,062,000 yen (tax included).
Rolex's innovative use of Cerachrom on the dial, combined with a left-side crown and a green and black bezel, was deliberately chosen. Rather, it's a sophisticated approach to quietly honoring the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master with rich content, rather than relying on commemorative inscriptions.
Another notable model in the GMT-Master II collection
A new highlight of the GMT-Master II series is the dial model made of a natural stone called Tiger Iron, which is a combination of three minerals: Tiger's Eye, Red Jasper, and Hematite. This stone combines the luminous effect of Tiger's Eye, the deep red of Jasper, and the metallic shine of Hematite, creating a visual impact that is unlike any other.
Automatic (Cal. 3285). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KERG case (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 7,467,900 yen (tax included).
This model is housed in an 18K Everose gold case with a two-tone brown and black Cerachrom bezel.
