Norqain has released a new model, the Wild One Skeleton JP 42MM, exclusively for Japan. We will explore the appeal of this watch, while also explaining the background to Norqain's popularity in the Japanese market.

This is a special model of the "Wild One Skeleton 42MM" produced by Norqain exclusively for Japan. It features an all-black exterior with turquoise accents. Automatic movement (Cal. N08S). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 41 hours. Nortec case (42mm diameter, 12.3mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Japan exclusive. Price: 1,023,000 yen (tax included).
Photographs by Masahiro Okamura (CROSSOVER)
Nojima Tsubasa: Interview and writing
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 1, 2025]
Norqain, a Swiss mechanical watch brand that has achieved success in the Japanese market
Japanese watch enthusiasts are often said to have some of the most discerning aesthetics in the world. Many brands say that success in the Japanese market directly impacts the success of their watches. A prime example of this "success in the Japanese market" is NORQAIN, founded in 2018. The company's first collection, already boasting a level of perfection uncharacteristic of a new brand, immediately captured the hearts of watch retailers across the country upon its launch. Perhaps aided by the push from watch sales professionals, it was only natural that Japanese watch enthusiasts, who recognize "good is good" without being obsessed with the brand's prestige or history, flocked to NORQAIN watches. Since then, NORQAIN has expanded its presence around the world, securing a solid position in the mid-range market, where a wide variety of brands compete fiercely.
Why has the company been successful in the Japanese market? The key lies in founder and CEO Ben Kaffer. Having served as Breitling's sales manager for Switzerland and Asia, he is well aware of the importance of the Japanese market. In order to convey the appeal of NORQAIN, he has traveled to Japan numerous times, listening directly to the voices of not only retailers but also users. In addition to the appeal of the watch itself, the founder's passionate words and unsparing hard work have led to a virtuous cycle that has created more fans and led to the company's success in the Japanese market. Today, Vice President Tobias Kaffer, Ben Kaffer's younger brother, also participates in talks at retailers across the country, interacting with watch enthusiasts and applying this knowledge to sales strategies and watchmaking.

Vice President of Swiss company Norqain. He is steadily increasing his fan base by appearing in talk shows and communicating directly with users at dealerships across Japan. The close relationship between the brand and its users is also one of the attractions of Norqain.
The Wild One Skeleton JP 42MM is a hit with Japanese people.
NORQAIN has just announced the new "Wild One Skeleton JP 42MM," a Japan-exclusive model. While NORQAIN is always in the news, what shocked the watch industry the most in recent years was the appointment of Jean-Claude Biver as a corporate advisor and the creation of the "Wild One" under his new management. This new model is a special one based on the skeleton version of the Wild One.
Nortec cases that you can enjoy for years to come
The Wild One's greatest feature is its exterior. The movement is housed in a titanium container, which is then layered with a rubber middle case and a proprietary carbon composite called NORTEQ, making it lightweight, durable, and available in a variety of colors.
This model combines an anthracite gray rubber middle case with a jet black Nortec case, creating a subtle contrast while appearing to be a single tone of black at first glance. The design deliberately avoids a color scheme that would make it obvious that it is a limited edition model, and instead caters to Japanese tastes with a delicate sensibility that finds beauty in subtle shadows, making it truly worthy of a Japan-only model.
A closer look at the sharp-edged Nortec case reveals a marble-like pattern, a result of the carbon composite material. The material is a blend of carbon fiber and a polymer matrix, so the carbon fiber will not peel off due to impact or aging. Its excellent durability means you can enjoy its beauty for a long time.
The turquoise blue scattered across the dial provides a striking accent to the all-black color scheme. Turquoise blue is one of the trend colors in the watch industry these days, and models featuring this color on their dials tend to attract attention regardless of brand. However, while many of these models use turquoise blue across the entire dial, this model only uses it as a single accent on the hour markers. It appears on the hour marker indexes, the luminous paint on the hour and minute hands, the tip of the second hand, and the minute markers. While a color with a strong casual feel tends to be eye-catching, it also tends to be limited to certain outfits and occasions. However, with a color scheme like this one, its refreshing tone can be enjoyed in a wide range of situations. This unique yet versatile design makes this a rare watch that can be recommended to many people, from collectors with multiple watches to beginners looking for their first one.

A movement that also comes alive as a design
The bold openwork design adds further originality to the dial. Beneath the seemingly floating indices and brand logo is the automatic mechanical movement, Cal. N08S. Through the gaps between the skeletonized baseplate and bridges, mechanical elements can be seen, including the balance wheel and shock-proof mechanism beating at 12 o'clock, the barrel at 5 o'clock, and the gear train that connects them. The design, overflowing with the appeal unique to mechanical watches, such as the gears that rotate little by little and the barrel that allows you to visually check the winding status, captivates the viewer.
The movement can be viewed not only from the dial side but also from the case back. Through the sapphire crystal printed with the words “JAPAN SPECIAL EDITION,” you can enjoy the rotor with the brand logo and the skeletonized bridges.
Isn't it true that the movement primarily determines the function and performance of a watch, placing restrictions on the case size and dial layout? While see-through backs are not uncommon these days, the general image is that it is something hidden within the case. In contrast, this skeleton watch even utilizes the movement as a design element, making it a model that can be enjoyed from all angles.
However, one concern with skeleton watches is the impact that their design has on practicality. The dial is meant to display the time, and the more elements there are, the less visible and legible it becomes. However, this model features three-dimensional hour marker indexes that appear to protrude from the ring containing the minute markers, and the vibrant turquoise blue accents ensure practicality that won't cause inconvenience in everyday use. It's typical of NORQAIN that the watch isn't just playful, but also firmly grasps the fundamentals of a tool.

An ultra-robust mechanical watch
One of the disadvantages of skeleton watches is that they are more vulnerable to shocks than regular mechanical watches. Mechanical watches are precision instruments, and if subjected to a strong impact, they can cause serious damage that impairs the timekeeping function, such as tangling the balance spring, breaking the gear shafts, and distorting the hands. When it comes to skeleton watches, which have been stripped of the base plate and bridges that support these parts, it's easy to imagine how much impact is taboo.
Amazingly, the Wild One Skeleton is designed to withstand impacts of up to 5000 g. This is achieved through a multi-layered structure consisting of a titanium container, a rubber middle case that acts as a shock absorber, and tough Nortec. This reduces the amount of impact that reaches the movement. Furthermore, the skeletonization of the movement is based on architectural structural theory, with each support point supported by multiple arms, ensuring rigidity and durability.
This model is also extraordinary in that it allows you to freely enjoy the mechanical design that is unique to skeleton watches.


An ideal example of success in the Japanese market
The Norqain brand is a perfect example of success in the Japanese market. In terms of sales channels, the brand chose established watch shops across the country rather than directly managed stores. Directly managed stores offer greater flexibility, making it easier to establish a brand image and train staff. Meanwhile, in general watch shops, where management is less strict, it is difficult for emerging brands to secure prime sales space and display a wide lineup of watches with specialized fixtures. The extent to which staff understand the brand's founding philosophy and the unique features of each model also depends on the training provided by the stores. However, Norqain likely understood this. Long-established Japanese watch shops have the ability to discern what is "good," and if they could properly understand the products, staff would be more likely to speak of their appeal in their own words, rather than relying on platitudes they had heard before.
Japanese watch enthusiasts also have the discerning eye to discern what is "good." This is no doubt evident from the fact that lesser-known micro-brands are being discovered by Japanese watch enthusiasts and becoming secret hits.
Using local retail store staff who have built strong relationships with customers as evangelists, they aim to transform watch enthusiasts with the ability to discern the appeal of their products into fans. While the premise is of course that they are making high-quality watches, how can they best communicate that appeal? Norqain's answer to this question was one that was perfectly suited to the Japanese market.
Even after Norqain's name became widely known, the company continued to communicate with dealers and users. Having achieved a certain level of success, it would have been more efficient to expand into other regions. However, it is precisely because of this close relationship, with management personally visiting dealers and listening to their customers, that Norqain has evolved and its users have made new discoveries. The Wild One Skeleton JP 42MM, created by such a warm brand with the Japanese market in mind, was surely a success.



